As the day ends, one of our kayakers takes a moment to enjoy the sunset from our campsite on Hanson Island.
A post-card-glorious sunset marked the end of Monday, our first day of kayaking on Johnstone Strait off the northeast coast of Vancouver Island. Morning seemed long ago and far away— and my body spoke to just how long ago and far away that was. It had passed 71 earlier in the year and was wondering when the fabled golden years were going to start. “They are here,” I told it with a grin. It grumped. My mind and body aren’t always in agreement.
The guides and group, including Peggy and I, were in high spirits. We had successfully completed our first day of kayaking, seen stunning scenery, and watched an orca breach. We were in a beautiful setting. Our guides had just fed us a gourmet meal, and our tents were set up, promising a good night’s sleep. What was there to complain about?
We had all met for the first time on Sunday night. The session had started with the usual meet and greet. “Tell us something about yourselves.” We half listened as we composed whatever we were going to say. There were the Canadian guides, a contingent from Idaho, three mid-westerners, one Californian, and our friends David and Edie from Alaska. Peggy and I are from Oregon. We also had a family of Asians until they figured out they had come to the wrong meeting. Everyone had at least some kayak experience. David and I, along with our child brides, were the elders.
Our guides gave us an overview of the journey and then distributed dry bags and rubber boots. I debated between size 13 and 14. The 14s were a little loose, the 13s a little snug. I went with snug and wondered how my large feet would work in the tight confines of the kayak. Carefully, I presumed. Peggy and I retired to our rooms and begin the packing process— what to take and what to leave. Sea Kayak Adventures had recommended a lot and our guides had suggested less. Everything had to fit in the boats. There were important decisions to make.
My size 13 boots, clearly marked for all to see. I wondered how they would relate to the small rudder pedals in the Kayak.
The next morning we were up early, went through our gear for the umpteenth time, had a quick bite, and caught the taxi hired to take us to Telegraph Cove. It was time to break out the cameras.
Telegraph Cove started life as a lumber mill. Nowadays it is an eco tourism center. A couple of hundred thousand people visit in the summer for whale watching, kayaking, fishing and checking out grizzlies. In the winter, its population drops to 20. The town has done a great job of preserving historical buildings from its past.
This sign, featuring an orca, grizzly and salmon, welcomes visitors to Telegraph Cove. Also note the impressive drift wood. We were to find some on our trip. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)
Part of the appeal of Telegraph Cove is its preservation of the past, as with this old Dodge truck. I think the truck was confused about where its lights should be. Or maybe it was so old it needed bifocals.
Telegraph Cove is all about water as this photo suggests. Here we see the Whale Interpretive Center, a fishing/tour boat, and kayakers. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)
The empty boat docks tell a tale. We would not be the first to leave Telegraph Cove that morning for the Johnstone Strait. Our route took us right down the row and made a right at the Whale Interpretive Center.
Once our taxis dropped us off at Telegraph Cove, it was time to get busy. There were kayaks to pick, gear to load, life vests to fit, and last-minute instructions, such as which side of our paddle was up.
Our guides, Julia, Nick and Quy, had been up before dawn getting ready for us. Kayaks, life vests, and sleeping pads were waiting. Group gear had already been packed. Our first chore was to pick out our kayaks. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)
The white boats are more stable, the guides told us. Being the oldest, David, Edie, Peggy and I decided we could use the most stability. What we failed to think through was that the white kayaks were also the largest, the heaviest, and carried more of the group gear.Translation: they would be slower and harder to row.
And then the moment arrived. It was time to put our kayaks in the water and start paddling. Put in and take out were always a group effort.
Heavy fog hung over Johnstone Strait and along the shore. We moved slowly, keeping each other in sight and waiting for the fog to clear. Large boats, including cruise ships, use the Strait. You want to be damn sure you can see them— and that they can see you. At one point, Nick, who was on rear guard duty, decided my seat needed adjusting. I was too laid back. By the time the adjustments were made, the other kayakers had disappeared into the fog. They waited patiently. We stopped and had a leisurely lunch. Then the sky turned a bright blue and we were off across the Strait. Orcas were waiting.
Kelp beds and fog slowed us down. Here, we maneuvered our way through the kelp. Some of our group had almost disappeared into the mist— and they weren’t that far away. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)
Working our way along Vancouver Island, Julia decided to stop for lunch and wait the fog out. The bright sun was already creating a patch of blue.
Everywhere we went, the beauty of the forests matched the beauty of the waterways.
“Come and get it.” Julia and Nick announced that lunch was ready. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)
With lunch over and the fog lifted, we made our way across Johnstone Strait. Peggy searched the water for orcas/killer whales.
The distinctive whoosh made by a whale when it surfaced and blew caused our group to raft up, where we held on to each other’s kayaks. Edie gave us a smile while we waited, hoping to catch sight of the whale. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)
And were rewarded by one breaching in the distance. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)
Having also been slowed down by a pod of dolphins, we finally made it to our first night’s campsite on Hanson Island. The camp is to the right of the rocks, back in the cove.
Sea Kayak Adventures leases its sites from a First Nation tribe. Each site is chosen for its beauty and its natural setting. Camps are pre-set up with tents, a cooking area, and a primitive but comfortable and private open-air restroom. We carried our kayaks up into the camping area, selected tents, packed away gear, and then went for a hike. Afterwards it was time for cocktail hour and dinner. We finished off our evening watching the sunset— and a gorgeous sunset it was.
Peggy and I stand next to our home in the woods for the night.
Our walk provided this fun photo where the sky and clouds met the forest…
We found this jewel of an urchin shell…
And this rather odd shell/skeleton that our experts debated over. Check out the buck teeth. This guy would put a beaver to shame. Considering this post is going up on October 30th, Peggy, the creature, and I would like to wish all of you a Happy Halloween.
Back in camp, I got a happy, toothy grin from David…
And a shy smile from Julia.
We finished off the day by watching the sunset over Johnstone Strait. Next blog: We kayak onward to our next island.
Wandering through Time and Place 
Pure paradise! I love this series and am sending it to my hubby.
Glad you are enjoying it Cindy. Hope ‘hubby’ is as well. 🙂 –Curt
What a wonderful post. I still remember my first sight of an orca in Glacier Bay. It was stunning enough on a sailboat. Kayak? Ummmm… I’d raft up, too. It’s really neat that the had the tents and such pre-sited. I had wondered about all of that. It makes things easier for everyone — except, perhaps, those tasked with getting everything set up ahead of time.
i’m such a fan of fog, and those photos are glorious. On the other hand, navigating in fog is touchy, and the presence of the “big boys” can be nerve-wracking.
I’m looking forward to the next installment.
Thanks, Linda. Orcas, and all whales are impressive. Orcas strike me as being more attractive because of their unique color. I was hoping one would surface right next to us. They really don’t eat people. At least not very often. (grin)
Peggy and I were admittedly spoiled. Normally we have to set up and take down camp on our own. Our guide, Quy, told us they had a blast setting up the tents, however, which they did preseason.
‘Big boys’ is definitely the way to define it when you compare a kayak to a cruise ship. –Curt
After all that I feel like pitching our tent in the backyard. We might compromise and barbeque a couple of snags instead. Wonderful story and great photos.
Thanks Gerard. The bar-b-que is probably the better idea. 🙂 But I have to confess, you’ve got me on snags. What are they? Fish, as in snagging a fish? –Curt
What a fabulous adventure. Gorgeous country, and great photos.
Alison
Forgot to say loved the bit about your child brides 🙂
Don also calls me his child bride lol
What happens when you marry a woman seven years younger, Alison. LOL And thanks. It was indeed an adventure. –Curt
Yes, I’m 8 yrs younger than Don. Just a baby really 🙂
Commented above, and thanks.
Your accidental Halloween decoration is great and really rather spooky! Sounds like you had to work hard for some of the time but bet you were glad to arrive and find everything set up and ready for your comfort and pleasure. Great shots and luck with the Orca.
Spooky it was. 🙂 As for hard work, it usually goes with the territory for adventure travel. We appreciated being spoiled by having things set up. Usually, Peggy and I travel on our own on outdoor efforts and get to cook our own food, and set up our own tents. 🙂 –Curt
Just beautiful. What a wonderful way to vacation. I admit to being envious! Would love to do this someday.
It’s waiting for you, Bill. 🙂 –Curt
Gorgeous place. Hubby & I are very jealous!
British Columbia has so many beautiful places, from the ocean to the mountains. It has never disappointed us. Jealous, huh.:) Actually, Peggy and I find beauty just about everywhere we go. –Curt
Beautiful scenery. Through your writing, I felt your excitement. And this is so true, “We half listened as we composed whatever we were going to say.”
Later you get to know everyone better. 🙂
Thanks Timi. And the listening bit is always a challenge, especially when we are getting ready for our own ‘performance.’ –Curt
Ahh life, you live it well.
It is sweet. And there is a lot to live. –Curt
All of you – have a ball!!
That we did, GP. It was a grand trip.
Amazing photography – looks like the hard paddling through the kelp paid off with that beautiful capture of the whale 🙂
Your pictures are so beautiful!
Thanks. Hard work is supposed to pay off, right. 🙂 At least that’s what my dad used to tell me. My mother had her doubts. –Curt
Outstanding excursion Curt, Peggy really brings her photos to life…Great job on you’re post!~
Thanks Slingshot. Part of the fun is always reliving the experience. –Curt
Great photos Curt, and for me, a good reminder of your part of the world. I’m still waiting to take a decent sunset pic, and your’s makes me envious. The breaching orca is very cool. It looks like a fun trip. ~James
Thanks James. The trip was fun, challenging, and very interesting, as I am sure you can imagine. I am always a sucker for a sunset photo. God only knows I have enough of them in my collection. A few of them have to be good. 🙂 I haven’t seen that many whales breach over the years. It was special and I am ever so glad that Peggy caught it. –Curt
Thank you for taking me on a wonderful trip.
I am glad to have you along, Hilary. –Curt
I heard Orcas love plump Oregonians…but I am glad the rumors were incorrect. So you DID see an Orca…from a low and slow kayak!! OMG… You survived! Your better half, too!
The story was wonderful to read. And your photo of the gorgeous sunset! I don’t think you had the luxury of taking along a tripod so being hand held, it was even better. Luscious colors!
…and I am GLAD you two love birds found a room!
I know, I know, get a room. 🙂 Trust me, after a full day of kayaking, it was zonk city.
As for “plump” Oregonians. The Orcas recognize a fellow North Westerner. Now some one from Southern California…
And thanks on the sunset. You are right. No tripod.
–Curt
Gorgeous trip. Looks like you got pretty lucky with the orcas, too. Love the lux camping – they gave you a properly flat platform for the tents and everything!
Considering 99% of the camping I have done in my life, which I have done a lot of, has been on the ground with a thin mattress, it was indeed luxury camping. 🙂 –Curt
Pingback: Orca Kayaking Trips - Johnstone Strait, Canada
Thanks for the link. Kayaking among the orcas is a lifetime experience. –Curt
Pingback: Kayaking among the Orcas/Killer Whales of British Columbia… A New Series | Wandering through Time and Place