It looked like this black-faced sheep in the Scottish Highlands had learned how to fly when escaping from a border collie. Maybe not, but it was a one heck of a leap!
Peggy and I have now returned from our two month exploration of Greece, the Scottish Highlands and Ireland. I’ll be blogging about the experience over the next couple of months, focusing on highlights.
One of the highlights of our CIE Travel Company bus tour of the Scottish Highlands with our grandson Cody was stopping at Neil Ross’s 11,000 acre Leault sheep farm in Kincraig, Scotland. (It’s not far from Loch Ness where we went in search of the legendary Nessie.) Neal and his border collies put on a sheep dog demonstration for us that was incredible.
The first border collies were bred on the border between Scotland and England, thus the name. Their ancient ancestors were Viking and Roman herding dogs. Their specific ancestor traces back to a dog know as Old Hemp born in 1893. His herding instincts were so highly developed that sheep herders the world over wanted pups from him. It’s said that he produced over 200— and I assume that he was quite happy to do so. Among the qualities that Old Hemp showed were high intelligence and the ability to manage large flocks over long distances using independent judgement. Plus a real love for his master and a strong desire to please. The latter made him easy to train and eager to carry out his responsibilities.
Sheep herders were also impressed with the fact that Old Hemp was less physical and more mental in his herding technique: Instead of biting the sheep, he gave them ‘the look,’ translated ‘do it or else.’ The bite was implied. I understand the look. Peggy was the principal of an elementary school with over 1000 students from 18 different countries and was a master of the look. She didn’t have to use it often, but when she did, the kids were instantly on their best behavior. So am I.
Possibly the most important factor is the herding instinct, which is the result of hundreds, if not thousands, of years of herding. Sheep and cattle dogs love to herd. It is not a chore; it’s a way of life. When Ross brought his dogs out for the demonstration, they were almost shaking in their eagerness to be turned loose. When Cody was young, his dad had bought a pair of Austrailian cattle dogs. They were constantly trying to herd him and his brother Ethan. They even tried to herd me, but we had a discussion about it. In addition to sheep and cattle, border collies have also been used in herding poultry, pigs and even ostriches!
Neil uses both voice commands and whistles to let his dogs know what he wants them to do. If you ever watched the movie Babe where the pig ends up herding the sheep, Neil provided the whistle commands used with the sheep dogs in the movie. It’s fascinating to watch how Neil and the sheep dogs work together. His first command was to go out into the woods and bring the sheep into the field where the demonstration was to take place. At one point he directed his sheep dogs to separate out some sheep that belonged to a neighbor from his herd, and they did it.
Following are photos that Peggy and I took to give you something of a feel for the sheepdog demonstration. We will apply our own interpretation as to what the border collies were up to…
The collies began their work by gathering the sheep together out in the woods on Neil’s ranch. The video at the end shows the effort. The dogs then brought the sheep into the open area in front of Neil’s house where they demonstrated their ability to control them. Our interpretation here was that the collie that you see in the foreground was staring at the sheep and informing them, ‘You are going in the wrong direction.”“That’s better.” “Now run. It is okay to wag your tails.” We watched as the border collies worked the sheep back and forth across the field at Neil’s commands.“Now, line up in groups of 2-4 and trot across the yard for a group photo.” One dog, seen next to the sheep here, is herding. Another dog stands off in the distance, ready to run in and help if needed. The dogs worked in tandem with two other collies on the field. “Good sheep.” We dutifully took photos. (All of the wool on the ground suggested to Peggy and me that the sheep were shedding. Either that or it was left over from sheep shearing and had been blown across the field.)This photo provides an idea of the number of sheep the dogs were working at the time. It’s just a small portion of the 2500 sheep on the farm.The whole time the dogs worked, Neil was giving them voice and whistle instructions.He also demonstrated the fine art of sheep shearing while three of his dogs looked on. Maybe they were there to assure the sheep’s good behavior.Neil also introduced us to a pair of lambs.And a calf. One of the lambs stuck its nose out through the fence, asking to be let out. Neil let all three out where members of our tour group fed them milk with baby bottles.The absolute stars of the show were the three border collie puppies that were brought over to meet the tour group.Cody fell in love— and was threatening to steal one.I could hardly blame him.Peggy joined Cody for a photo op.A large yawn announced that the puppy had decided that taking a nap in Cody’s arms seemed like a nice thing to do. Or was it saying, “Ah want tae learn hoo tae mak sheep flee, jist like mammy and daddy.” With a proper Scottish accent, of course.Nope, it was sleep.
This video below shows the dogs bringing in the sheep from the forest to the open field under Neil’s directions. One of other dogs wants to join the fun but is limping. Neil directs it down to the open field to hold the sheep when they arrive. You can see the dogs working in the background. Note how fast they run. A few of the sheep slide off to the side. You can hear Neil telling the dogs “Say goodby, say goodby. Clicking on the photo will start it running.
My next post on Tuesday will take you back to the book I am blogging, UT-OH, and the beginning of my time at UC Berkeley where I was a student when a nation-wide effort was underway to involve students in the civil-rights movement. I ended up giving speeches from the Dean’s desk and sitting on the floor of the Administration building singing We Shall Overcome with Joan Baez.
Our wildlife viewing in Oregon was a two way street. The deer were as likely to be staring in the window at us as we would be staring out the window at them.
Our five acre home in Oregon backed up to a million acres of national forest lands. The Applegate River flowed by the front. It was an ideal location for wildlife viewing. Almost magical. We had front row seats. Usually, our wild visitors were a joy, but when cougars and bears stopped by, we rolled up the welcome mat.
Two fawns crossing our deck.
One night Peggy and I woke up with a start as a deer leapt onto the deck next to our bedroom. They frequently crossed the deck, but rarely at night and never at full speed. It got our attention— but nothing like the loud thump that followed. I imagined something big and thought of getting up to look. But it was a moonless, pitch black night. I wouldn’t be able to see anything and the intruder would be long gone. Or not. I decided to go back to sleep.
Our neighbor, Bryan, called the next night. “I’m shaking, Curt,” he told me. A hawk had taken out a chicken of his during the day and he had gone out after dark to check on the welfare of the flock. What he found was a pair of eyes staring out at him from one side of a large tree. A long tail stretched out from the other side. Twitching. It was a cougar! Around 7 feet long. Bryan kept his bright flashlight focused on the eyes and slowly backed away to the safety of his house. And then called me.
Suddenly, the loud thump from the night before made sense. The cougar had been in hot pursuit of the deer and jumped onto our deck. About five feet away from where we were sleeping.
I didn’t have any photos of the black bears raiding our garbage can. I was always too busy trying to run them off. So I asked AI to produce one for me. It’s perfect. The bear looks just like the one that was a frequent visitor in our neighborhood. The garbage can is an exact match to ours. And it even comes with the claw marks! Garbage is garbage.
Bears came by much more frequently than cougars. They thought of our garbage can as a gourmet restaurant. They refused to make reservations— just show up, lift off the lid, and settle in for an a multi course meal. They were messy eaters (kind of like taking a two-year-old out to dinner), and never left a tip. It was a hassle, but it went with the territory. A quick 15 minutes afterwards would clean things up. Unless they ordered take out. Then their mess would be strewn out for 50 yards up the trail.
Another neighbor, Tom, suggested fastening the lid down with a bungie cord. I had my doubts— given my experience with Yosemite bears—but tried it and was pleasantly surprised. It actually worked (most of the time). It didn’t stop them from knocking the large plastic cans over and leaving claw marks behind.
Two bear encounters stood out.
Tasha and her two sons
The first one took place when our daughter, Tasha, visited with her two boys. The day of their arrival, I’d whipped up hamburgers on my Weber Grill that lived on our porch. Afterwards, we’d had a pleasant evening entertaining the boys and chatting. Finally, we had all drifted off to bed. Tasha had the guest room that was next to the porch, the boys occupied our office next to her (it converted to a bedroom on demand), and Peggy and I were in our bedroom at the other end of the house. Everyone was tired. Sleep came immediately. Until the crash…
The smell of the cooking hamburgers had wafted up into the forest that evening and got the attention of a hungry bear. I’m pretty sure that it was sitting up on the edge of the national forest thinking, “Damn, why don’t they go to bed.” We were all sleeping happily when he came down to find the source of the enticing smell, sniffed the grill, and discovered the smell was coming from inside. Being logical, he decided to open it. Bear style. BANG! A large Weber Grill tipped over on a cement floor makes a loud noise. The bear took off at full speed. And Tasha yelled…
“Curtis!!!” Once again, bear duty called. I threw on clothes, charged out to the porch, discovered that the grill was tipped over, and the bear long gone. I assured Tasha that everything was okay. It wasn’t easy. I understood. The loud crash had me jumping out of bed at the other end of the house. Tasha was one wall away. All’s well that ends well, right. The grill disagreed. It took a fair amount of work to repair. And our hopes of having the boys experience sleeping outside at our home in the future were squelched by mom.
The next memorable bear encounter started with our patio furniture moving around in the middle of the night. Have you noticed that most of my bear encounters start with ‘middle of the night?’ It’s the nature of bears. Not mine. But who would assume patio furniture would have anything to do with a bear? Not me. Crashing grills and garbage cans, of course. I hopped out of bed to explore the phenomena, carefully opening the door and peeking outside. Nothing….
Then I heard the crash. “Garbage can!” was my immediate thought. So I dashed across the house and peeked out the backdoor. The garbage can innocently stared back at me, standing tall, with no new claw marks. “Oh no, not our grill again,” I cursed, bee-lining it for the porch. But the grill was fine. Nothing, nada, zero, zilch. I opened the door and stepped out on the porch, looking up our roadway. Again, nothing. And then I noticed that our bird feeder was swinging back and forth, bent out of shape. Mentally, as well as physically, I was pretty sure.
It’a a strange fact bears like sunflower seeds. Earlier in the day I had spilled a few seeds around our patio chairs when I was refilling one of our bird feeders. The bear had been moving the furniture to get at the seeds! And then come around the house to tackle the bird feeder. Why such a big animal would like such a small seed was beyond me. But then again, bears are quite democratic when it comes to food.
Suddenly, however, I was very nervous. The still swinging bird feeder the bear had been playing tether ball with set off an alarm bell in my mind. In response, I swung my flashlight to the left. Not there. And then to the right. There he was, a big fellow like the photo above, about 20 feet away. He wasn’t running away; he wasn’t charging. He was just staring. And staring. Disconcerting to say the least. So I yelled at him— loudly— and prepared to dash inside. He continued to stare, and finally, as if he had made up his mind about something, slowly turned around and made his way up the road back to the forest. WTF, I wondered. And then I figured it out.
He had never seen a naked man before.
So we come to the end of my bear stories. I hope you’ve enjoyed them.
Peggy and I have now returned from our two months of exploring Greece, the Scottish Highlands, Northern Ireland and the Irish Republic. It was a great trip and we are eager to share the highlights with you. My tentative blogging schedule will be to feature our present travel tales on Fridays and use Tuesdays for blogging my new book, UT-OH!
And now for Friday’s first travel post from our recent journey: Teaching Sheep to Fly
Yosemite National Park is world renowned for its beauty. For backpackers, it is also renowned for its bears.
At the end of my last blog, I had backpacked 18 miles into Yosemite Valley to resupply the food the bears had consumed— and alcohol. (I would have loved to witness the reaction of the bear that bit into my plastic bottle of 151 proof rum.)
My intention was to stay in the Valley that night, but it was a zoo, absolutely crawling with tourists. So I shouldered my pack and hiked back into Little Yosemite Valley. My body was not happy. The hike added a 2000 foot climb plus another five miles to an already-long day.
The area’s proximity to the Valley means that it is a popular camping area for backpackers, either as a first-night stop or destination. I found a small, one-person site with a convenient log in the middle for sitting against and used my pack and Thermarest mattress to make a comfy chair. I whipped up a quick dinner, topped it off with a cup of wine, and prepared for bed. (My 151 proof rum was not available in the Valley.)
The popularity of the area for backpackers also means it is a popular area for bears— a dine in or take out restaurant. Given my experience of the night before, I was a tad paranoid. I carefully stuffed my food, and anything the bear might find tasty (wine, toothpaste, etc.) into my food bag and used a cable the park provided to hang food beyond a bear’s imagination.
I also made sure that every pocket in my pack was open, including the top. Although the food was out of the pack, there might have been lingering smells to attract a bear. Closed pockets can lead to bears opening them. It’s rather hard on backpacks. And even if the bear doesn’t stop by for a snack, lots of other woodland creatures, mice for example, are happy to chew holes to get at food— especially in popular camping areas. I’ve had that happen several times over the years.
It should be noted here that several bear/rodent-proof containers are available for today’s backpackers. They weren’t in the 70s. I nodded off that night listening to backpackers yelling and beating on pans as bears worked their campsites, wondering when my turn would come.
I woke up around 11 when I heard a noise on the other side of the log where I had placed my pack, about five feet away. Heart pounding, I sat up to look. A bear was methodically emptying the pack, checking to see if there was any food. I watched with clinical interest as it shoved his head into the pack, pulled out an item, dropped it on the ground and then stuck his head back in the pack. By then I had enough, and suggested rather loudly that the bear go elsewhere. After one more foray, it did. The only damage I suffered was bear slobber, all over everything. My old Basset Hound, Socrates, the world champion of slobberers, would have been jealous.
The next night I was leaving my camp for an evening walk when I met a bear coming to visit. I bent over and picked up a rock. He took off like a dog: It was my kind of bear. And thus my summer went. By the time I had led two back-to-back hundred-mile trips into Yosemite, I had my fill of bears. Each time a bear visited in the night, I’d hear a scream, “Curtis!” I considered myself an expert bear chaser.
It was almost my demise.
At the end of the second Trek, my friend Jean, her sister Mary and her husband Tim joined me at Tuolumne Meadows to hike the John Muir Trail. We spent the night at the Tuolumne RV/car campground. I had eaten backpacking meals for 18 days. It was time to celebrate. We grilled up steaks, broke out a fifth of Jack Daniels, and threw in several cans of beer.
Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite National Park
As the night progressed, I was feeling no pain. So it wasn’t surprising when a bear came to visit our neighbors from Iowa, I was prepared to do battle. They had left their cooler out on the picnic table and the bear was leisurely opening it. The Iowans were hiding out in their camper, making nary a peep.
“Hey bear,” I yelled as I strode across the road, “Get out of here!”
Well, Mr. Bear had found himself a cache of fresh food and wasn’t about to leave. He turned around, stood up on his hind legs, raised his front legs over his head and said “GRRRROWL!” He was one big fellow, towering above me. Stone cold sobriety was instantaneous.
It looked like this stuffed bear at the Tonopah Motel in Nevada.
“OK bear, it’s all yours,” I mumbled as I scurried back across the road to my own camp and safety. “Eat all of the Iowan food you want. Heck, eat the Iowans.”
By this time though, 20 flashlights were shining down on the bear. Campers are packed into Tuolumne Meadows like tenement housing in a barrio, and all of the neighbors were checking out the action, worrying. Thus disturbed, Mr. Bear went grumbling off over the hill, more than a little pissed to have his fine feast disturbed. You could almost make out in his growling, “I’ll be back.”
Of course the Iowans left their cooler out on the table. No way were they budging from their camper. I pictured them driving nonstop back to Des Moines the next day.
Finally things settled down. After another beer, or two, we crawled into our sleeping bags. Tim and Mary disappeared into the security of their truck while Jean and I crashed on the ground.
Not surprising, there came a time when Jean had to visit the restroom. Beer will do that. Equally unsurprising, the bourbon helped me sleep right through her getting up. But I did hear her come back. Except it wasn’t Jean I heard through my alcohol-induced grogginess. It was the bear— coming back for revenge.
“GET OUT OF HERE!” I screamed with all of the passion I had used when I had awakened with the bear standing on me. Jean, not knowing what to do, grabbed me by the head and said, “Curt, it’s all right, it’s only me!” This was undoubtedly the right thing for her to do, except now the bear had me by the head. As you might imagine, my yells increased in volume. By 10.
Picture 20 flashlights shining down on this happy little domestic scene.
That was my last bear encounter of the season. There would be many more in the Sierras, but my next post will discuss encounters with grizzlies and the giant, brown bears of Alaska. If you find encounters with black bears scary…
Consider this fellow. I was stalked by a grizzly bear when I was leading a backpack trek across Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula.
We found this fellow in Pyrgos on the Greek island of Tinos. It was giving us the look. “Why are you interrupting my nap time?” Cats, as everyone knows, enjoy their naps— 12-16 hours a day, or even up to 20.
Unlike Ancient Egypt, where people had a cat god and mummified their pets, domestic cats weren’t around in Ancient Greece. Now it’s different. We found them everywhere we travelled this past month: Athens, the island of Tinos, Nafplio, Olympia, and Delphi. We even had temps, cats that volunteered to be our pets, to hang around and meow at us— assuming that we kept the food coming.
This skinny female didn’t mind us waking her up. She had adopted us at our Vrbo on Tinos and persuaded me to feed her while we were there for a few days. Our appearance meant the it was time to jump down and start rubbing against my leg.
From research on past posts I’ve done that included cats, I learned that the leg rubbing business is the way a cat marks you with its scent to claim ownership. Other cats need not apply. I also learned about the kneading business where the cat sinks its claws into your leg or stomach while purring. That apparently comes from when they were kittens and kneaded their mother’s teats to encourage milk flow. Even grouchy old toms seem to take comfort from this activity.
There was no leg rubbing from the cat in Pyros however. The message was “Go bother another cat. Preferably a big one.”Uh, I think we’ll let that kitty sleep. (Photo from our Southern Africa safari.)Actually, lions once roamed throughout Greece and the surrounding area with the last being recorded in Macedonia in the first century CE. I think every Greek ruin we visited had at least one sculpture of the large, scary animals. A few were chomping down on something… or someone.Ouch. Scary didn’t involve chomping in most of the sculptures, however. Looks were enough.This lion was having a hard time keeping it together. No wonder it was angry. “Where did my body go?”I introduced this kitten in my last post. She was fascinated with a bird up in the tree. We were down on the Peloponnesian Peninsula at Mycenae, which includes one the world’s most famous lion carvings. Her brother appeared to be off on an adventure. I imagined it saying, “Can I see the Lion Gate again, Mom? Please, please, please.”“If you are a good kitty,” Mom admonished.Kitty wasn’t alone in his desire to see the Lion Gate. I also promised to be good. Mycenae had been the center of Greek civilization between 1600 and 1100 BCE. I had been waiting to see it ever since I took World History in High School. While that wasn’t 3000 years ago, it was awhile. The Gate features two lionesses flanking a central pillar.A close up. The lionesses are missing their heads. It is thought that they may have been made out of metal and been facing outward to warn any potential invaders.This lioness that Peggy and I took photos of in Southern Africa would have served as a great model for the missing heads. Invaders wouldn’t have to had known that the lion was simply yawning.This lioness would have worked.Shortly after leaving Mycenae, we came to the town of Nafplio where we stayed for a week. The lion sculptures there had wings! We had seen them before. In Venice. Their presence in Nafplio was due to the fact that Venice had once occupied the city. The winged lion is the symbol for Saint Mark the Evangelist, who was the patron saint of Venice. A close up.Another example of a Venetian winged lion in Nafplio. In case you are wondering about the round things around the lions’ heads, they represent halos, a required accouterment of saints. (“Don’t forget to put on your halo, honey.”)The halo is solid here. Judging from the looks on the lion’s face, he was not having a good day. Is pissed a good word here? Sort of how one might look if you had spent your day being dragged through the streets of Alexandria, which is how St. Mark met his maker and gained his wings. But, now, back to kitties.We found this cat ensconced on its chunk of wood in Ancient Pisa, a small community about two miles away from Olympia, Greece where the Olympics were founded. To us it symbolized the fact that cats can sleep almost anywhere. Chairs are quite common in Europe but we have also found cats on the backs of motorcycles, tombstones, all sorts of stone ruins and even on the ground, if nothing else is available.The ground seemed okay to this cat outside our Vrbo in Delphi, Greece…The challenge was getting comfortable…Here’s a hint if you are looking for a little kitty companionship in Greece. Sit down at any of the innumerable outdoor tables you find throughout the country. The odds are a cat will be by to visit in minutes, if not immediately. It’s how they make their living and seems to be universally acceptable to restaurant owners. A bite of whatever you are eating, followed up by another and another will guarantee you have a companion for the whole meal. Unless someone makes a better offer. This pretty little calico had just issued an inquiring meow. It was joined by two other cats while we all had lunch.Including this handsome fellow.I’ll conclude today with one final lion sculpture. My question is does having a bad hair day make you look scary? Or does it just make you look silly?That’s embarrassing. (Photo from Peggy’s and my trip through southern Africa.)
Peggy and I have been back in Virginia for a few days, but tomorrow we head out again, this time for the Scottish Highlands and Northern Ireland. Once again, I be choosing tales from UT-OH to fill in while we are traveling.
First up: I’m going to start with bear tales from the years I lived in Alaska. This is large grizzly that was self-entertaining with the bone of a moose that it kept throwing up into the air. “Come a little closer, you will get a much better look.” Yeah, right.
Peggy and I are continuing our journey through Greece, the Scottish Highlands and Northern Ireland. Today’s tale from my WordPress blog-a-book, UT-OH!, is about the time my friend Bob Bray, got lost in a snowstorm…
There is beauty in freshly fallen snow, but there can also be danger. Avalanches, hypothermia, and getting lost are three frightening possibilities. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)
Over the years I’ve had a number of challenging experiences in the snow. They have ranged from being buried under three feet fresh snow in an emergency snow shelter to camping out in 30° F below zero weather in the Alaska wilderness. I know what it is like to be on the edge of hypothermia and to cross country ski through avalanche country.
Only once, however, have I been involved in a search and rescue effort during a snowstorm.
I was out hunting with my friends Bob Bray, Hunt Warner, and Phil Dunlop in the early 70s. As usual, I regarded hunting as an excuse to be out in the woods with friends, not a reason to shoot a deer.
Deer season had come down to its last weekend. Pushing the season to its limit meant risking bad weather. We were hunting north of Highway 50 in El Dorado National Forest one Saturday afternoon in late October when the snowflakes started drifting lazily out of the sky.
It wasn’t much to worry about. We zipped up our coats and continued hunting. If anything, the gently falling snow added an enjoyable element to the trip. But it kept snowing and the flakes became more serious. After a couple of hours there were six inches of the white stuff on the ground and my tracks were beginning to disappear. I decided it was time to make a judicious retreat to the T-bone steaks that were waiting for us back at the jeep. I soon ran into Hunt who was walking with Phil.
“Have you seen Bob?” I asked. He and I had parted an hour earlier at the edge of a large thicket of brush where Bob had been convinced he would jump an evasive buck.
“I haven’t seen him since it started to snow,” was Hunt’s reply. Phil hadn’t see him since lunch. Normally we wouldn’t have been overly concerned. We were used to traipsing around through the woods on our own. But evening was coming, the temperature was dropping, and the snow was continuing to accumulate.
“Maybe Bob has more sense than we do and has already returned to the jeep,” Phil suggested. That seemed logical so we made the short 15-minute walk back to it. No Bob.
“This is getting worrisome guys,” I said in a definitely worried tone. It wasn’t like Bob to be late for dinner. “Let’s go back to where I saw him last and see if we can find his tracks.” The advantage of snow is that it leaves a trail even a city slicker can follow, assuming that it hasn’t already covered the tracks. Even then, there are usually dimples in the snow.
This cougar track from our backyard when we were living in Oregon shows how clear tracks can be in fresh snow.
Unfortunately, no tracks or convincing trail-like dimples were to be found. I did spot the tracks of a very large deer, but they disappeared at the edge of the thicket.
“It looks like the buck stops here,” I said to Phil and elicited a weak groan. I suggested we split up and look around.
“We need to meet back here in 30 minutes,” I urged. “Don’t go far, and pay attention to where you are going. It is getting close to dark and the last thing we need is a second person missing. If you come across Bob’s tracks, fire your rifle and we will join you.” My degree of concern was reflected in my bossiness. Normally we were a very democratic, almost anarchical group.
Ten minutes later I had made my way to the other side of the thicket and found nothing. Neither had I heard any rifle shots announcing that either Hunt nor Phil had success. Discouraged, I turned around to rejoin my fellow searchers. It was then I spotted tracks leading out of the thicket. Up went my Winchester and I fired off a shot.
“Bang!” the sound of another rifle being fired resounded from the direction Bob’s track had headed. I quickly levered in another bullet and fired again. There was no response. I did hear Phil and Hunt making their way through the brush toward me, though. They sounded like a pair of large bears. We held another council. Once again, we decided to split up.
Phil would return to the road where the jeep was parked and flag down a car. His job was to get a message through to the El Dorado County Sheriff’s Department that Bob was missing. Hunt would cut back through the thicket and wait on the jeep trail where the thicket began in case Bob made his way back there. He’d fire his rifle if Bob appeared. I was going to follow Bob’s tracks until dark to see if I couldn’t catch up with him. There were only about 30 minutes of daylight left so the odds were slim. My concern was that Bob had somehow injured himself and was stranded, or that he had become disoriented and become lost.
Following the tracks was a challenge. They would be clear for a few yards and then disappear under the snow. It was continuing to fall and beginning to drift, whipped on by a strong breeze. Each time I lost the tracks, I would work forward in a zigzag pattern until I found them again. It didn’t help that Bob was tending to wander or that I was tired from a full day of tramping over mountains. Dusk was rapidly approaching when I came across another set of tracks that crossed the trail I was following. They were fresher, and they were Bob’s! I yelled but the only response was the silence of the snow filled woods. It seemed to me that Bob was beginning to follow the classic lost person syndrome of wandering in circles.
I wanted to go on, needed to go on, but knew that the decision would be the wrong one. Dark had arrived to reduce an already limited visibility. I was tired, close to exhaustion, and cold. Hypothermia was a real threat. Ever so reluctantly I turned around and begin to make my way back toward Hunt, leaving Bob behind to face whatever fate the dark and snow and cold had in store for him.
The realization of how tired I was really hit me when I came to a downed tree and couldn’t persuade my leg to step over. We had quite the discussion. I reached down, grabbed my pants cuff and gave the reluctant appendage a boost. Hunt was waiting where we agreed and I filled him in on my findings as we made way back to the jeep through the ever-deepening snow.
Phil had had more luck. The vehicle he flagged down had a CB Radio and the driver was able to contact the Sheriff’s office. A team with snowmobiles would be at our jeep at first light, prepared for a full search and rescue operation. Bob, who was manager of Placerville’s newspaper, The Mountain Democrat, was well-known and liked in the community. We knew we would have lots of support in our search.
There wasn’t anything else we could do. We were too tired to set up the tent so we climbed in the jeep, grabbed a bite to eat, downed a Bud, and prepared for a long night. Hunt got the front seat—it was his jeep. Phil and I shared the back. It was beyond uncomfortable and even exhaustion couldn’t drive me to sleep. Somewhere around two I finally managed to doze off only to be awakened at 5:30 by Hunt’s cussing about how damn cold it was. And it was. Our sleeping bags hadn’t kept us warm and the doors had frozen shut. We had to kick them open.
We soon had our Coleman lantern blasting out light and our Coleman stove cooking up a mass of bacon, eggs and potatoes. We were expecting a long day and knew we would need whatever energy the food could supply. The storm had passed, leaving an absolutely clear sky filled with a million twinkling stars.
The Sheriff’s team arrived just as the sun was climbing above the Crystal Range of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, exactly on time. Introductions were made and snowmobiles unloaded. We filled the team in on our efforts of the previous day. The deputy sheriff in charge asked me to climb onto the back of his snowmobile and take them to the point where I had left Bob’s tracks the night before. It was to be my first ever snowmobile ride. Except it wasn’t.
Just as the search team was firing up their engines, a wraithlike figure wearing a plastic poncho came slowly hiking up the hill toward the jeep. He looked like a bad guy out of an early Clint Eastwood western. It was Bob. As soon as the sun provided a hint of dawn, he had managed to orient himself and start walking back toward the jeep. Yes, he was freezing, but he was alive. We knew just how alive he was when he demanded his share of breakfast. As we cooked up another mass of bacon and eggs (fortunately we hadn’t eaten everything), Bob told us his story.
He had become disoriented after coming out of the thicket and headed off in the direction he thought would take him back to the jeep. It didn’t. He fired his rifle several times to get our attention but the sound of shots is fairly common in the forest during hunting season. We just assumed a deer hunter had gotten lucky. Bob continued wandering and eventually came across his own tracks. That was when he seriously began to worry.
Knowing he was lost and knowing night was coming on, he gathered wood for a fire. The wood was wet and refused to start burning. Bob’s lighter ran out of fuel but he still had a few matches. He took his lighter apart, placing the innards under the wet wood and used his last matches to light it. The good news was that the fire started. The bad news was that the wind and snow put it out almost immediately. It was some time during this process that I had fired my rifle and Bob had used his last shot to respond. Out of options, he had dug out a packrat’s nest to provide shelter and prepared for the longest night in his life. He had survived in lodging that made Hunt’s ancient jeep seem like a five-star hotel.
“I even fell asleep once or twice,” Bob managed to get out around a mouthful of eggs.
Of course, the Mountain Democrat ran a major story on Bob and he had to take considerable ribbing in Placerville over the next several months. It was a small price to pay considering the alternatives. That Christmas, Bob received several compasses for gifts. It was years before he had tolerance for any temperature below 70.
I took this photo out my front door of our home in Oregon. And then went back inside…
Next Post: You will get to meet both ancient and modern cats of Greece. They were everywhere.
A bird had caught this kitten’s attention. It was laughing at it.
Peggy and I are presently traveling through Greece, Scotland and Northern Ireland. While we travel, I am posting stories that will be in my WordPress blog-a-book: UT-OH! Today’s tale is about a 1965 confrontation with a terrorist group on a remote road in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of California.Few things get much more Ut-Oh-ish.
The Symbionese Liberation Army released this photo with its star recruit.
“Death to the fascist insect that preys on the life of the people.” —Motto of the Symbionese Liberation Army
In the spring of 1975, two friends and I went on a scouting trip. We had driven up into the Sierra Nevada Mountains early in the spring to look for likely fishing holes. Trout season was only a few weeks away. The mountains were still coated with snow. Following Highway 50 up from Sacramento toward Lake Tahoe for 60 plus miles, we took Ice House Road into the ElDorado National Forest. We carefully made our way along the ever-narrowing road until a snow bank suggested that further progress was best left up to animals with big furry feet. We stopped and got out to stretch our legs.
We had wandered a few feet when a white van came roaring up from behind and tried to slip by the right side of our car without slowing down. Normally it wouldn’t have been more than an irritation, but the narrowness of the road combined with the snow left just enough room for one and one half cars. Not two. We watched in slow motion disbelief as the van barely missed our vehicle, slid into the snow, and became seriously stuck.
“Yes!” we said in unison, “There is justice in this world!” Right about then the side door of the van opened and disgorged a polyglot group of rough-looking characters. “Whoa,” I mumbled more quietly, “we had better keep our opinions to ourselves.” While two or three of the men bent down to look under the van, a not so rough, in fact an attractive young woman, disentangled herself from the group and came strolling over to where we were standing.
“I am in love,” Hunt mumbled. Phil and I joined the admiration society while an elusive thought began tugging at the back of my mind.
“Hi, guys,” she smiled at us, becoming even lovelier. “Do you have any guns in your car?”
My tiny elusive thought suddenly became a very large insistent nag. Attractive young women don’t normally start conversations by asking whether you are carrying weapons. Hunt, on the other hand, was beaming. He liked guns and— even more— he liked women that liked guns.
“I have a twenty-two along,” he announced proudly.
“Oh,” she replied, apparently a little disappointed at the size of Hunt’s gun. “My friends taught me how to shoot automatic weapons in the Bay Area. We are up here to practice.” It was stated with the same type of pride a new mother might talk about her child’s first steps or words. My large, insistent nag turned into a five-stage fire alert.
Meanwhile Hunt had suggested that he and his new friend take the twenty-two out for a little target practice since it was obvious that the van wasn’t going anywhere quickly. I don’t remember how I managed it, but I pulled my friends aside sans beauty for a very quick and quiet conversation.
“I am not one hundred percent sure,” I began, “but I think the young woman who likes big guns is Patty Hearst, aka Tania, and that her friends over at the van are members of the SLA. If I am right, we are in a very dangerous situation.”
The SLA, or Symbionese Liberation Army, was one of the more bizarre and misled of the radical groups to be born out of the ferment of the late 60s and early 70s. Viewing itself as an urban guerrilla movement, SLA’s first action of note had been to gun down Dr. Marcus Foster, the black Superintendent of Oakland Schools, and seriously wound his deputy, Robert Blackburn. Blackburn had earlier served as Peace Corps Director of Somalia and then gone on to work for the Philadelphia School System. He had recruited my first wife, Jo Ann, and me as teachers in Philadelphia when we left the Peace Corps. It would have been hard to find two people more committed to helping disadvantaged inner city kids in America than Foster and Blackburn.
SLA’s next major public statement was to kidnap Patty Hearst, heiress to the newspaper tycoon William Randolph Hearse, while she was a student at UC Berkeley. At some point, Patty switched from being an unwilling kidnap victim to willing participant in SLA and adopted the name of Tania (the name of Che Guevara’s girlfriend). The common assumptions were that Hearst was brainwashed or a victim of the Stockholm syndrome, a psychological response through which a kidnap victim comes to associate with his or her captors. Certainly, the young woman we talked with, was proud of her skill with automatic weapons and had the freedom to come over and chat with us. She was not an unwilling prisoner.
In 1974 Patty participated in a San Francisco bank robbery and then moved to Los Angeles with the SLA where several members of the group met their death in a fiery confrontation with LA police. Some 400 LAPD officers had surrounded a house occupied by SLA and emptied over 5,000 rounds into the structure. (Over kill?) Patty, who wasn’t there, watched the whole confrontation on television. She, along with William and Emily Harris, then fled to Pennsylvania for several months before making their way to Sacramento and another bank robbery.
There was enough similarity with Hearst and the SLA that I suggested we go over to the van and help the nice folks get unstuck— which we did. They drove up to the end of the road, turned around, carefully edged by our car and headed off down the mountain. We waved and smiled vigorously as they disappeared.
Was it Patty Hearst and the SLA? The timing was right, the young woman looked like Patty, and the group could have fit a description of the SLA. Patty reported later that the group had taken their van into the mountains for weapons practice. In May of 1975, the SLA robbed a bank in Sacramento (Carmichael) and a young mother, Myrna Opsahl, was shot and killed. Patty Hearst drove the get-a-way vehicle. It was one more sad and sordid event in the history of the SLA. In most ways this group of want-to-be revolutionaries was a group of losers. Their murder of Marcus Foster was regarded with disgust by most members of the radical community. It was their kidnapping of Patty Hearst and, even more so, the fiery shootout in LA that gave their organization legendary status.
As for Hearst, I have no doubt that the Stockholm syndrome played a role in her behavior. But I am also convinced there was more. The atmosphere of the time encouraged radical thinking and Patty, who was something of a rebel, was living in a cauldron of dissent at Berkeley. I suspect it wasn’t all that hard to slip into a role of radical chic.
Patty’s crime spree came to an end in the fall of 1965 when the FBI tracked her down in South San Francisco. Here she is shown with agents and in hand cuffs. (AP photo)
Wednesday’s Post: My friend Bob Bray gets lost in a snowstorm when we are out hunting. Night falls before we can find him…
Peggy and I are off journeying through Greece, Scotland and Ireland over the next several weeks, so there won’t be much time for blogging. I’ve decided to republish some of my favorite posts from the past 15 years that will eventually make it into the book I am blogging: UT-OH!.
Today’s post follows my adventure with the beaver in the Wind River Mountains of Wyoming. I drove south down into NewMexico for a backpacking trip into the Gila Wilderness of New Mexico next to the Cliff Dwellings National Monument in southern New Mexico.
Peggy photographed this herd of elk near the Redwoods.
I thought I was prepared for everything when I started my backpack trip into the Gila Wilderness. Little did I know…
My pack was loaded with a week’s worth of food and six topographic maps, more than enough to let me wander wherever I wanted and hopefully avoid getting lost. I had started off up the West Fork of the Gila River in the Cliff Dwellings National Monument, but soon came across a trail jogging out of the canyon to the right.
Looks good to me, I thought to myself and started climbing. I was determined that wherever I went for the week would be based on random decisions. So much of my wilderness experience had involved leading groups or scouting out potential routes for organized trips that the sense of abandon felt delicious.
Consequently, years later, it isn’t exactly clear to me where I went. I was more than happy to hike 4 to 5 miles in one direction and then 6 or 7 in another. The only thing I tried to avoid was backtracking. I do remember wandering through Woodland Park and Lilly Park as well as climbing in and out of several canyons.
Southern New Mexico is UFO Country, so I had brought along two science fiction books for evening and early morning entertainment. I was also carrying my usual field ID book and one serious read, Aldo Leopold’s “Sand Country Almanac.” Leopold had been responsible for the creation of the Gila Wilderness in 1924, making it the first specifically designated wilderness area in the United States, and, I might add, the world. People who love wild country and understand its intrinsic value owe a great debt to the man for his vision. I had read the book before but reading it again in the Gila Wilderness added a special significance. I declared a layover day so I could savor it all at once. I was camped on a small stream located in a minor canyon and hadn’t seen a soul for four days. It was the perfect setting for getting lost in a book.
At some time in the early afternoon, a loud “Woooeee” shattered the silence.
Big Bird, I thought to myself. Big Bird on steroids. Aldo Leopold would have been up in a flash to discover the source. Of course, he would have had his rifle with him. He was quite the hunter. As usual, my only weapon was a three-inch pocketknife. Still, the mountain man in me demanded I get off my lazy tail and go exploring. I grabbed my binoculars and climbed out of the canyon. I was greeted by a broad, flat expanse of Ponderosa Pines but no Big Bird. “Woooeee,” I heard receding into the distance. I put on my stalking cap and begin to sneak through the forest.
“Woooeee!” Big Bird shouted behind me. I whirled around only to catch a glimpse of something disappearing behind a bush. Big Bird it wasn’t. Nor was it the ghost of Geronimo, whose territory I was wandering through. It looked suspiciously like a cow elk that had morphed from stalkee to stalker. I wasn’t sure that I liked my new role but decided to play along.
“Woooeee,” I called out and jumped behind a Ponderosa.
“Woooeee,” I heard a delayed three minutes later. I stepped into the open to discover that my female companion had come out from behind her bush and was staring intently at my tree.
“Woooeee,” I shouted at her as she once again disappeared. We had a game. A cow elk was wooing me.
Years earlier I had discovered that much of the higher animal kingdom is quite curious about humans that don’t act like humans. I once had a similar experience to my elk chat with a coyote on the American River Parkway in Sacramento. First I would hide and then he would hide. Finally, out of frustration, the coyote plopped down in the middle of the trail, raised its head, and began howling. I plopped down in the trail as well, raised my head and joined him. We had quite the discussion.
The elk and I continued our game for about 15 minutes when I changed the rules. I sat down in plain sight with my back against the tree. Instead of hiding, she stood watching me for several minutes. I could tell the wheels were grinding away in her mind.
Suddenly she charged. I didn’t move from my seat but my adrenalin cranked up several notches. She was all of 10 feet away when she slammed on her brakes, lowered her head, stared me in the eye, and woooeeed again. Half fascinated and half frightened, I didn’t budge. Several hundred pounds of frustrated female were looming over me. I had zero doubt that she could kick the stuffing out of me. She held my gaze, snorted in disgust, shook her head, and trotted off.
While smaller than the bull elk, there is nothing puny about the females. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)
Whatever conversation we had been having was over. I breathed a sigh of relief and returned to camp. My first chore was to get out my guidebook. Female elk, it noted, can become rather aggressive and dangerous in the spring when they have calves. I’d been both ignorant and lucky.
After dinner, I went for my evening walk following an animal path that ambled along beside the creek. I heard a snort and looked up. Five elk were standing on the canyon rim staring down at me. The old girl had recruited some buddies to check out the weird human. Unfortunately, this time I knew enough to be worried. I was an intruder in their territory, a possible threat to their precious babies.
My worry level turned to panic when all five came charging down the canyon wall. One moose had been scary; now I had the whole damn thundering herd! Running was out of the question. Think, Curtis, went dashing through my brain. The only thing I could dredge up was something I had fantasized I might do if charged by a grizzly bear in the wilds of Alaska. I started jumping up and down, scratching my armpits, pounding on my chest, and screaming ooh, ooh, ooh! It worked for great apes, why not me.
For the second time that day, I heard the screeching of elk brakes. This time there was no standing and staring, however. The herd turned as one and charged back over the canyon rim, disappearing into the night. Somewhat satisfied with myself, I returned to camp and the security of my tent.
I wandered around for another two days, keeping an eye out for UFO’s, steering clear of cow elk, and visiting sites where this or that pioneer had been killed by Apaches. The pioneers also did a pretty good job of killing off each other, not to mention the Indians. With my food running low, I finally ceased my wandering ways and hiked back to the National Monument.
NEXT BLOG: I finish my series on three of the backpack trips after my return from Alaska by going back to my first one: Backpacking into the Grand Canyon. After barely surviving my trip into the canyon, an unknown creature visits me in the night and dines on the edge of my sleeping bag.
Peggy and I are now at the site of Ancient Olympia on the Peloponnesian Peninsula where the Olympics were born in 776 BCE.. The large column is part of the Temple of Zeus completed in 456 BCE. The column was rebuilt for the Summer Olympics hosted by Greece in 2004.Peggy uses her walking stick to demonstrate how javelins were thrown at the Ancient Olympics in Greece. Women, however, were not allowed into the games. An exception was made if you were the daughter of the gods. I had my suspicions…
Peggy and I are off journeying through Greece, Scotland and Ireland over the next several weeks, so there won’t be much time for blogging. I’ve decided to republish some of my favorite posts from the past 15 years that will eventually make it into UT-OH!.
Today’s post is about a solo backpacking trip I took in 1986 into the Wind River Mountains of Wyoming. After three years of intense work in Alaska, I was taking six months off to go on solo adventures throughout the West. Several involved backpacking trips. This week, I am going to feature trips into the Wind River Mountains, the Gila Wilderness of New Mexico, and the Grand Canyon of Arizona. All involved worthy Ut-Oh experiences. A beaver stars in today’s tale.
‘Busy as a beaver’ was once a common description of someone trying to accomplish a lot in a short amount of time. Beavers are known for their industrious ways. Peggy and I took this photo on one of our trips up and down the Alaska Highway. A colony of beavers had dammed this creek to create a pond for their home, which you can see out in the background.
The adventure started at the small town of Pinedale, Wyoming where Mountain Men once gathered for their version of a spring fling. After a winter of living alone in one room cabins covered in snow while they trapped beaver, it was time to sell the pelts they had collected and party! Think rotgut whiskey, Virginia tobacco and women. It was a wild time. One report I read had men playing poker on a deadman’s chest. Another talked of a rabid wolf that wandered into the event and bit several people before someone shot it.
From Pinedale I drove up into the mountains above the town to Fremont Lake. A trailhead to a small lake looked promising. Whether I arrived at the lake or a different one is open to debate.
To start with, I was traveling with a United States Forest Service map instead of my usual detailed topographic maps. Contour lines on topographic maps provide a preview of the route ahead and help identify prominent landmarks. You can then use the landmarks to make compass sightings and determine your location. (Today’s hikers just use their GPS. It wasn’t an option then.) Forest service maps are more oriented toward road travel. Still, my map would have been adequate except for the snow.
Whatever trail I was following quickly disappeared. Normally, I would have searched around and found it. Tree blazes, rock cairns, and patches of clear ground all help. This time I didn’t care.
I was a make-believe mountain man exploring uncharted territory in search of beaver. My route would be the one of least resistance. I did use my compass to maintain a general direction. There is a significant difference between being sort of lost and hopelessly lost.
A couple of hours later I discovered a lovely small lake free of ice and snow. I set up camp and went for a quick dip to rinse off the day’s grime. I can guarantee it was quick because the lake’s water had been snow a few hours earlier.
Warm sun and my Thermarest air mattress enticed me into taking advantage of my splendid isolation for a tad of nude sunbathing. I had drifted into a nap when a young couple walked into camp.
The woman’s surprised “Oh!” woke me up.
“Hi, how are you doing,” I said to their disappearing backs as they quickly made their way around to the opposite shore to set up camp out of sight. So much for splendid isolation…
I decided to go exploring. My camp was nestled up against the south side of a peninsula and my first action was to hike across it. Much to my delight, a beaver hut was located on the small inlet. Even more intriguing, Mother Nature had provided a tempting bridge of rocks out to the well-built stick house.
Never having stood on top of a beaver’s home, I decided why not.
The inhabitant was not pleased. He shot out of his underwater door and surfaced about ten feet out, whipping around to glare at the strange intruder roosting on top of his house. Appearing disgruntled, he paddled off around the peninsula toward my camp.
“Aha,” I fantasized, “he is going to go stand on top of my tent to show me what it is like to have someone perch on your house.” I quietly made my way over the peninsula to check out my theory.
The beaver was indeed near my tent but he was busily munching away on tender young willow shoots. A mid-afternoon snack, it seems, was more important than revenge. I strolled back to camp, retrieved a book and settled in so I could read and keep a watchful eye on my gnawing neighbor. Thirty minutes later he had made his way 20 yards down the edge of the lake and embarked on a strange project.
I watched him dive under the water and resurface with his front paws full of mud he had scooped up from the bottom of the lake. He made his way on to shore and carefully sculpted the mud into a mound.
That’s when things got really interesting. He peed on his pile.
As I watched him dive into the water for more mud, it suddenly dawned on me he was creating a scent pile, a personal want ad of the woods: “Strong young beaver with prominent buck teeth and great smelling pee seeks beaverette for long-term relationship.”
Either that or his mound served as a no trespassing sign for the competition. Maybe both.
“This,” I thought, “I have to see up close.” Using the young willows for cover, I got down on my hands and knees and carefully worked my way toward the beaver over the cold, soggy ground. The mountain men would have been proud of me. I was proud of me.
Naturally, right at this time, the young couple chose to reappear.
They couldn’t see the beaver. All they could see was the guy who had been nude an hour earlier down on his hands and knees crawling through the willows in the general direction of their camp. I waved and pointed at the beaver but they had already disappeared.
Fifteen minutes later they had packed up their gear and were hightailing it home. It was the fasted job of breaking camp I’ve ever witnessed. It would have been interesting to hear the story they told their friends about the wild, and possibly deranged, man in the mountains. I suspect they spent their next vacation on the crowded beaches of Hawaii. I admit to feeling a tinge of guilt. One of my goals in life is to encourage folks to enjoy the wilderness, not frighten them off.
None of this stopped the beaver and me from enjoying our solitude. I continued my wandering, lost ways for another week.
Several beavers were at work at the Alaska Highway pond. This one was pushing a tree trunk to add to the dam. I watched him stop and nibble on the trunk, eating while he worked.
NEXT POST: Backpacking in the Gila Wilderness of New Mexico, I am charged by a herd of elk! But first, I had a long discussion with a cow elk.
Elk are large animals. When several decide to charge you at once, it’s an UT-OH! moment for sure. I took this photo at Pt. Reyes National Seashore. Unlike the elk I encountered in New Mexico, these guys were merely curious. Dealing with people was a daily, ho-hum, occurrence for them.
My first backpacking trip wasn’t in the Wind Rivers or Gila River, it was hiking into the Grand Canyon. It’s UT-OH! is the tale of a tail. And surviving.
There are several ways to explore the Grand Canyon. Over the years, I’ve tried most of them. My first trip in was by mule in the late 60s. I’m second from the top in this photo with a dark, plaid shirt and sunglasses. I could barely walk afterwards. The physical challenge was nothing in comparison to my solo backpack trip down in 1986. The great beauty of the Canyon, fascinating geology and close to mystical setting easily made up for difficulty, however.
Bone has been in many tough situations in his life; he can handle tough questions. Here he rests on top of a saguaro cactus in Arizona looking for ICE agents. His lack of official papers, or even a birth certificate, can cause problems at times. –Curt
Q:Do you really talk? We’re speaking ethics here, Bone. Blogging is about transparency. That means honesty.
A. Are you crazy? Have you ever heard a bone talk? Of course I don’t talk. I just think out loud.
Q:Curt sometimes refers to you as he. Does this mean you are a male bone?
A. No. He makes assumptions, lots of them. He was showing me to a biologist at a writers’ conference in San Francisco and she suggested I have my DNA tested. “Just cut a small chip off of it,” she said nonchalantly. “You can determine its sex and breed.”
“Just cut a small chip off of it!” Outrageous! I am not some it to have chips cut out of. Besides, I lead a rich fantasy life and have no desire to know whether I am male or female. Call me she, he, or Bone, but never it.
Um, I think Bone is definitely a male. –Curt
Q: You have traveled all over the world and met thousands of people. How do they usually react to you?
A. With befuddlement. You should have seen the look on the face of the customs agent in New Zealand who tried to seize me as ‘animal matter.’ But emotions run the gamut. There was a Japanese man who got off a tour bus at Yellowstone National Park and wanted to hold me for good luck. Soon there were 40 other Japanese handing me around, oohing, and taking photos. I was thrilled. On the opposite side, I know a woman who refuses to touch me, like I have cooties. “I don’t know where Bone has been,” she states primly. Not surprisingly, there is also jealousy. “I want to be you and travel the world,” a good friend in Sacramento told me.
Some people act like I have cooties. This woman almost dropped me and then washed her hands! –Bone
Peggy and Curt’s niece, Christina, on the other hand, show the proper way to treat me. —Bone
Q: What is your favorite thing to do?
A. Visit graveyards; there are lots of old bones there. My favorite grave is Smokey Bear’s in Capitan, New Mexico. I once stood on his tombstone for ten minutes trying to communicate but all I could get was something about ‘growling and a prowling and a sniffing the air.’ A close second is the grave of Calamity Jane in Deadwood, South Dakota. What a woman! These are difficult choices, though, when you toss in the likes of Hemingway, Daniel Boone and Billy the Kid. On the light side I once visited Ben and Jerry’s graveyard of discarded ice cream flavors in Vermont. My spookiest experience was a visit to the Capela dos Ossos, the Chapel of Bones, in Evora, Portugal, where an estimated 5,000 corpses were dug up to decorate the walls of the chapel. Those folks definitely have a skeleton in their closet, lots of them. The skulls kept whispering, “Join us, Bone.”I ran.
Bone has a special fondness for unusual graves. Here he hangs out with Billy the Kid in New Mexico. Has he been in a gunfight? Are those bloodstains on his vest? -CurtThe camera broke when Curt tried to take a photo in the Chapel of Bones but here is my all time favorite sculpture at Burning Man, the Bone Tree. -BoneBTW, I married the lovely Bonetta at Burning Man in 2013. -Bone
Q: So, what’s your second most favorite?
A. Too hard; I am a dilettante dabbler, but here are a few.
Wandering, of course, anywhere and everywhere and by all modes: bikes, kayaks, rafts, skis, backpacks, sailboats, planes, helicopters, trains, cars, RVs, etc. I’ve been to all 50 states in the US and to over 50 countries worldwide.
Visiting wild, remote and beautiful natural areas. I started life wandering the Sierra Nevada Mountains, John Muir’s Range of Light.I’ve been to the majority of National Parks.
Seeking out the strange such as ghosts and aliens (I’ve been to Roswell four times and Area 51 once).
Attending unique events like Burning Man.
Meeting weird people.
Bone backpacking on the John Muir Trail. -Curt
Bone, Curt and Tom Lovering at 10th and R Street Fox and Goose Restaurant in Sacramento. Tom owned the Alpine West backpacking and wilderness specialty store at this location when he and Curt discovered Bone in 1977. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)
Q:Tom Lovering and Curt ‘discovered’ you in 1977 when backpacking south of Lake Tahoe. You have wandered extensively with both. Which do you like best?
A. Eeyore, the jackass who can’t keep track of his tail. We’re traveling companions and he saved me from being strung up and buried on Boothill in Tombstone, Arizona. I’d robbed a bank, cheated at cards and hung out with women of questionable character. (This is what I mean by having a rich fantasy life. It’s also known as evasion.)
I was in deep trouble in Tombstone. Wyatt Earp had arrested me for robbing a bank and Doc Holiday was checking me for weapons. -Bone
My life as Bone was in serious jeopardy. -Bone
Odds were I was going to end up on Boothill, along with Billy Clanton. -Bone
But then, the ever brave Eeyore came to my rescue! I hopped on his back and we went riding off into the sunset while leaping over large rocks.
Q:Which of your journeys has been most memorable?
A. I would have to say traveling the length of Africa in the back of a truck from the Sahara Desert in the north to Cape Town in the south with Tom. Almost falling off the back of a riverboat into a piranha infested section of the Amazon River would have to be a close second. I was perched on the back railing doing a photo shoot with Peggy. And then, of course, there was the 10,000-mile bike trip with Curt in 1989 and hiking 750 miles down the Pacific Crest Trail with him to celebrate his 75th Birthday in 2018.
Bone on photo shoot barely escapes falling off the edge into the piranha infested waters of the Amazon. “I was falling off when Curt leapt across the boat and grabbed me.”
I was much smarter when I rafted down the Colorado. I wore a life jacket! -Bone
That didn’t protect me from pirates. The dreaded pirate Steve held a knife to my throat and demanded to know where I buried my treasure. -Bone
Q:You are often seen scrambling over rocks in remote sections of the Southwestern United States. What’s that all about?
A. I’ve developed a fondness for Native American rock art. It resonates with my bone-like nature. It’s also another excuse to go wandering around in the outdoors. Plus, some of those places might be haunted and it is a great place to look for UFOs. A number of petroglyphs look amazingly like aliens. Finally, wandering in the desert is known to be good for the soul. Ask the Prophets of yore.
How can this guy and his strange dog not be aliens? -Curt
Q:Ah, being a born-again bone, do you have any insights into the great unknown?
A. Ommmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.
Q:Finally, and this may be a little sensitive, but do you always run around naked?
A. What kind of a question is that? Do you think I am uncivilized? For shame. I am the epitome of haute couture! A bow and arrow toting, card-carrying NRA member in Montana has designed and made me two leather vests. What’s more, a 90 plus year old woman in Kansas going on 20 with a crush on Johnny Depp and a room devoted to the Egyptian gods, has made me a kilt and several other outfits. Face it; I am hot stuff, clothed or naked. I may take up a modeling career.
My Bahamian/Canadian friend makes me a new vest in the wilds of Montana. –Bone
Bone, wearing his newly made kilt, fights off a ferocious sea monster in a scene straight out of ‘Pirates of the Caribbean.’ –Curt
Next post I’ll do a wrap on the many places Bone has been in his 49 years of wandering the world.
Bone, feeling a little low, in Death Valley National Park. It is one of the numerous stops he made with Curt on his 10,000 mile bicycle ride through the US and Canada.Peggy and I are presently in the Greek city of Nafplio on the Peloponnesian Pininsula. On our way down from Athens yesterday, we stopped at several Ancient Greek sites, one of which was Mycenae (where Helen of Troy originally came from). I was going to show you the gate to the city until Peggy pointed out this kitten on the trail up to it.
Peggy and I are off journeying through Greece, Scotland and Ireland over the next several weeks, so there won’t be much time for blogging. Initially, I decided to put the blog on hold, but I’ve decided to republish some of my favorite posts that may eventually make it into UT-OH!.
In today’s post our group of five splits up and Lynn and April hike out to South Lake Tahoe to care for April’s sprained ankle while Tom, Terry and I backpack on to Lake Aloha through the Desolation Wilderness.
Tree blazes were an important way to mark trails through wilderness areas in the past, and still can prove useful today. This is an old tree blaze in the Desolation Wilderness.
I watched regrettably as April and Lynn headed out. I would miss the inspiration. Soon, however, my mind was more than occupied with route finding. The trail had disappeared under the snow.
Tom pulled out his map and compass to establish our general direction. We searched for ancient tree blazes cut out by axes and left behind by early foresters, cattlemen and sheepherders.
We also watched for ducks where the snow had melted. I’m not talking about fowl that quack and taste good in orange sauce. Ducks, in backpacking terminology, are piles of stone set up to show the way. With a little imagination, they can look like their namesake. Caution is advisable. The people creating the ducks may have had a different destination in mind, or perhaps they were lost.
This is what a duck looks like. I used this form extensively on Sierra Treks. I had my rear guard kick them over to avoid confusing other hikers.
An hour later we found ourselves more or less where we supposed to be, on the edge of the Rubicon River. A student of ancient Roman History undoubtedly named the stream. Like Julius Caesar, we were faced with crossing it. In a month or so it would be a tame creek inviting a refreshing dip but now it was a roaring river filled with icy water from quickly melting snow fields.
Not carrying a camera with me in those years, I asked AI to generate a photo of what a stream filled with raging snow-melt looks like. It did a good job! While our crossing was on a flatter portion of the Rubicon, the river was still daunting.
I entered with trepidation and was almost washed off my feet. Facing up-stream, I used a walking stick to give myself a third leg. Water crept up to my knees and beyond. I have short legs. The force was incredible. I set each foot carefully and moved crab-like, searching for solid ground between slippery rocks.
I’d undone my pack belt so I could shuck the pack if I was knocked over. Swimming in freezing water with 50 pounds on your back is hazardous to your health. In a few minutes, that stretched out forever, I was across. Tom and Terry also made it without incident.
We plopped down on a convenient log to catch our breath and munch down on GORP (good old raisins and peanuts). It was a quick meal. A thick swarm of mosquitoes dive-bombed us with kamikaze abandon. Slap one and five more landed, gleefully licking off our bug repellent before plunging in their beaks. Snow melt time is primetime for mosquitoes!
We were driven to put on our packs and scurry up the trail. Fortunately, Rockbound Valley is relatively flat and we were able to escape. Stopping was not an option as we hoofed it for the next four miles, crossing the Rubicon two more times before we begin our labored ascent up aptly named Mosquito Pass.
Life slowed down immediately as we began climbing. The blood sucking hoards caught up. Near the top, we were confronted with a different challenge, more snow. Eight hours of hot sun had turned it to mush. We spent as much time sliding as we did climbing. It was slow, hard, slogging work. And it was dangerous. Running water, partially exposed boulders and tree trunks melt snow from the ground up and create hidden cavities. More than once we plunged through up to our knees.
Ignoring the danger, Tom and I laughed our way down the other side, skiing in our boots (glissading). Control was minimal. Camp was in sight. Terri came along at a much more sedate and careful pace.
There was nothing about Lake Aloha that made me think Hawaii. It was a strange Dali-like creation with a convoluted shoreline and innumerable Rorschach type islands. What’s more, mini-icebergs decorated its surface. Bright white on top, they turned an icy blue under the water. All I could think was cold. Plowing through snow on our way around the lake to camp added freezing to my thoughts.
That night, we built a small campfire to fight off the chill. Terry wandered off to bed. Tom was slightly melancholy. He looked off into the distance over my shoulder.
“I was married on that peak,” he announced to the night. I turned around and stared across Lake Aloha at the towering Pyramid Peak, the centerpiece of the Crystal Range. It was bathed in moonlight.
Several years earlier, Tom had met and fallen in love with Hilde, a slight, attractive blonde who shared his love of the wilderness. They decided to get married on the mountain. Mom, wedding party and friends were invited to share their 9983 feet “I do” in the Desolation Wilderness.
A photo of Lake Aloha on my 750 mile trek on the PCT. It was in August: No snow, no icebergs. (Grin) Tom was married on the farthest peak.
The marriage didn’t last long and Tom was reluctant to talk about it. The fire burned down to glowing embers. We shared the silence in memory of lost love.
Next: Bone Is Found… but not before the naked ladies jump.
Peggy and I are now on the Greek Island of Tinos. This is a sunset view from our VRBO.