“The clearest way into the Universe is through a forest wilderness.” John Muir
A small unnamed lake reflects the beauty and peace of the Mokelumne Wilderness. There’s a chance that John Muir stopped to admire it, given all of the time he spent exploring California’s Sierra Nevada Mountains. I’ve spent a bit of time wandering there as well— starting in 1957.
The Wilderness Act of 1964
“A wilderness, in contrast with those areas where man and his own works dominate the landscape, is hereby recognized as an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.” –Howard Zahniser, Author of the Wilderness Act
What does this mean? Transportation is by foot or horse. No bicycles or motor vehicles are allowed. Even chainsaws are banned for use on trail maintenance. No one can build permanent structures of any type. It’s just you and nature.
As of 2023, there were 806 wilderness areas located in 44 states and Puerto Rico. These areas are overseen by the National Park Service, the US Forest Service, the US Fish and Wildlife Service, and the US Bureau of Land Management. All in all, some 5% of land in the US is set aside as wilderness area, the majority in Alaska.
Over the past three months, I’ve been blogging (with Peggy’s help) about our national parks and monuments with an emphasis on their unique beauty, geology, flora, fauna and history that makes them so important to us— and about the threats that they are presently facing from the Trump Administration. Today we are switching to wilderness areas with the same emphasis. I’m going to cover three that I backpacked through on my 750 mile trip down the PCT in 2018 to celebrate my 75th birthday: The Mokelumne, Granite Chief/Desolation, and Marble Mountains Wilderness areas. If you’ve been with this blog for a while, some of the photos may be familiar to you.
The Mokelumne Wilderness is conveniently located between two of California’s highways that cross the Sierras. Since I was hiking north to south, I started at Carson Pass (elevation 8573’) on Highway 88 and ended at Ebbet’s Pass (elevation 8732’) on Highway 4. The distance on the PCT is approximately 30 miles, which is relatively short— but there are plenty of ups and downs! And, as you will see, great diversity and beauty.
By the time I got to the Mokelumne Wilderness section of the PCT, I was looking a little scruffy, not to mention skinny.Peggy, who is never scruffy, sent me off with a smile. She hiked three sections with me and provided support on all of the others, for both me and through-hikers. By this point, she was almost over being nervous about sending me off on my own.Almost immediately, I came on this old snag. I always enjoy their personality and beauty. You will see several on my two Mokelumne Wilderness posts. This one is all about roots.And how about this lodgepole pine that was insisting on doubling back on itself. It must have had a warped childhood.This is Frog Pond, maybe a mile along the trail from Carson Pass and a tenth of a mile off the PCT. I’d hiked by it several times over the years and not stopped. My loss. If it looks like the end of the world on the opposite end, close. There is a steep drop off just beyond the rocks.This well known landmark is known as Elephant Back. My first challenge of the day would be hiking around it on the left.Fortunately, it was all downhill. But there’s a truism about hiking in the Sierras, what goes down inevitably goes up!The Mokelumne Wilderness features flowers galore. There were whole gardens of them, planted and tended by nature. This one was also tended by a bumble bee,Pennyroyal, a member of the mint family. I picked a leaf and munched on it as I hiked down the trail.Ranger’s buttons. People who name flowers have great imaginations. As noted in the beginning, there are lots of them along the trail.Birdie on a granite rock. It sang me a song so I took its photo.I camped under this magnificent Jeffrey pine my first night…And met this young fellow in his 60s. He had quite a story to tell.He had hiked all three of America’s National Scenic Trails including three times on the Appalachian. He was now doing the PCT a second time.Did I mention the trail went up?I figured an alien from a UFO planted this so I avoided touching it… just in case.This, on the other hand, was an old friend of mine from growing up in the Sierra foothills: California Holly.Looking down on Upper Blue Lake from the trail. Note the smoke. It was a summer of fires along the PCT and I ended up breathing lots of smoke and avoiding fires. The distant knob was a prominent landmark for pioneers. Any guess for what they named it? The Nipple.Another snag.The trail worked its way through granite boulders and junipers.Which are one of my favorite trees.Heading off the trail, I found an attractive small lake to camp on. The clouds were threatening a thunderstorm.But the lake remained calm, reflecting the surrounding trees from impressionistic…To realistic.The next morning found me back on the PCT by 7 am, which will be the subject of my next Mokelumne Wilderness post…With a very different terrain.
27 thoughts on “Mokelumne Wilderness: Where Mother Nature Prevails… Part 1”
Although extremely fortunate in the places we have seen, I never hiked in wilderness and have always had to enjoy them vicariously through pictures like yours.
You also evoked a bit of nostalgia. Howard Zahniser was a cousin [in our family, if you were related at all, you were designated cousin]. During my first two years of college, I used to drive from PA to MD to visit him and his family. They were unlike anyone else in my experience, and I looked forward to seeing him more when I transferred to American University in the fall of 1964. Unfortunately, he died that spring.
Wow, cousin. That was a privilege, Ray.
I was lucky, living on the edge of the Sierras to be introduced to them early in life. it was my growing up wandering in the woods around Diamond Springs with my dogs that led to my life long passion, however.
Absolutely love all the old wood! They look like sculptors from Italy! And the flowers are so intense! I admire you two and your desire to enjoy the world. Politics, as you know, put a damper on so much in our lives and the Golden One is trying his best to curtail any beauty or knowledge that we may gain. Here’s to your glorious walks!
Thanks, Wendy. The wilderness is a great balm for what ails us. I’d love to take the ‘Golden One’ on a seven dat backpack trip. It might totally change his perspective.
Everyone focuses on the current administration and the havoc they’re wreaking — quite rightly — but when it comes to the natural world, they aren’t the only offenders. I rarely get the urge to put a 2×4 up against someone’s head, but in this case it did cross my mind.
I think your UFO flower might be smoothstem blazing star, past its bloom and setting seeds. I found one of its genus mates (ten-petal blazing star) in the Four Corners area, and they sure do resemble one another. With all the riches in this wilderness, the first mile of the trail might take me a week.
Took a look, Linda. Unfortunately, I didn’t see any photos of the plant going to seed. I’ve photographed the flower before.
So sad when you see an effort as described above, Linda. It is so misdirected and counterproductive. I feel the same way when art is defaced in the name of some cause or the other. All advocates achieve is to turn people off who might otherwise be sympathetic. Stupid is the best way to describe it.
I could see you getting lost in the great flowerbeds along the way for a week, Linda! And the scenery in general.
I’ve never hiked in the Sierra Nevadas, Curt. How I’d love to one day. Great photos of the views, trail, flowers, and lakes. Pulls at the wanderlust for sure. Heading on to Part 2!
Wandering through Time and Place 
Although extremely fortunate in the places we have seen, I never hiked in wilderness and have always had to enjoy them vicariously through pictures like yours.
You also evoked a bit of nostalgia. Howard Zahniser was a cousin [in our family, if you were related at all, you were designated cousin]. During my first two years of college, I used to drive from PA to MD to visit him and his family. They were unlike anyone else in my experience, and I looked forward to seeing him more when I transferred to American University in the fall of 1964. Unfortunately, he died that spring.
Wow, cousin. That was a privilege, Ray.
I was lucky, living on the edge of the Sierras to be introduced to them early in life. it was my growing up wandering in the woods around Diamond Springs with my dogs that led to my life long passion, however.
Absolutely love all the old wood! They look like sculptors from Italy! And the flowers are so intense! I admire you two and your desire to enjoy the world. Politics, as you know, put a damper on so much in our lives and the Golden One is trying his best to curtail any beauty or knowledge that we may gain. Here’s to your glorious walks!
Thanks, Wendy. The wilderness is a great balm for what ails us. I’d love to take the ‘Golden One’ on a seven dat backpack trip. It might totally change his perspective.
Mr T wouldn’t survive a trip to the grocery store!
Another great hike, Curt! Those snags are so interesting, the more I stare at them, the more I see!!
They are always interesting G. And many of them are beautiful. Thanks!
That first pic took my breath away. I imagine that’s how paradise looks.
It would make a believer out of me Peggy!
Precious. I wish I could still hike, but I have lower back problems. Fortunately I can walk anywhere in the cities, but not carry a backpack…
Keep walking… (As old Johnny Walker said)
Thanks. Lots of nature to see in cities, too! And, so far so good on the walking. Fingers crossed.
As Johnny Walker said: “Keep walking”.
Will do, maybe even with a shot of Johnny Walker as a reward afterwards…
Indeed. Cheers.
Wow, that lodgepole pine might be the most bizarre tree I’ve ever seen. I long to hike in the Sierras. Lovely images!
Fun, wasn’t it, Diana. As noted it probably had a bad childhood… And thanks. It’s a beautiful trail.
Everyone focuses on the current administration and the havoc they’re wreaking — quite rightly — but when it comes to the natural world, they aren’t the only offenders. I rarely get the urge to put a 2×4 up against someone’s head, but in this case it did cross my mind.
I think your UFO flower might be smoothstem blazing star, past its bloom and setting seeds. I found one of its genus mates (ten-petal blazing star) in the Four Corners area, and they sure do resemble one another. With all the riches in this wilderness, the first mile of the trail might take me a week.
Here’s a link to the smoothstem blazing star.
Took a look, Linda. Unfortunately, I didn’t see any photos of the plant going to seed. I’ve photographed the flower before.
So sad when you see an effort as described above, Linda. It is so misdirected and counterproductive. I feel the same way when art is defaced in the name of some cause or the other. All advocates achieve is to turn people off who might otherwise be sympathetic. Stupid is the best way to describe it.
I could see you getting lost in the great flowerbeds along the way for a week, Linda! And the scenery in general.
Beautiful photography, Curt, and an eye for some cool wood sculptures. You’ve gotten quite good! Wow. You were 75 then and going strong.
Thanks D. Appreciated. It was a challenge, but worth every footstep. And still moving right along at 82!
When you see pictures like these, it makes you wonder why some people only want to visit cities…
Agreed, Dave. Fear of the woods, perhaps…
I’ve never hiked in the Sierra Nevadas, Curt. How I’d love to one day. Great photos of the views, trail, flowers, and lakes. Pulls at the wanderlust for sure. Heading on to Part 2!
There’s a reason why John Muir (and me) spent so much time wandering there! Don’t put it off, D. Thanks.
Maybe next spring/summer. 🙂 We are holding back this year to see what happens to the economy.