Our 55 mile drive from Rio Grande Village to our campground in Castolon through the Chihuahuan Desert and around the Chisos Mountains of Big Bend took us from the east side of the park to the west side. One of our first views on nearing Castalon was the Cerro Castellan peak. It’s impossible to miss. Peggy and our F-150 white pickup, Iorek, provide perspective. Peggy is sitting on tuff, which is consolidated volcanic ash. It isn’t as soft as it looks. Peggy told me that she had a tuff butt.We like Google maps when we are looking for an overview of our day’s drive. This shows our route from the Rio Grande Village to Castolon and provides an estimated drive time— assuming one isn’t pulling off every few minutes to admire the views. There is another reason why I like this map: It provides a clear view of why Big Bend is called Big Bend. The black line traces the flow of the Rio Grande as it makes its big bend.This National Park map shows the area around Castolon and shows the sites we will be including in today’s post: Cerro Castellan, Tuff Canyon, the Dorgan House and Santa Elena Canyon. The Visitor Center, closed in summer instead of winter, provides a clear hint about the region’s weather. You don’t want to face the heat of summer at Big Bend. Fall, winter and spring are normally mild. The story of Cerro Castellan is like so many other peaks found in Texas and throughout the Southwest. A rock highly resistant to erosion overlays other rocks that erode more easily. In this case, the top rock is from a dense lava flow that covered the area. Most of the rocks under it are also volcanic, just less resistant such as volcanic tuff, the buff colored rock. The dark rock at the base is basalt from earlier lava flows.We were treated to numerous views of Cerro Castellan. This one was from our camp. Not bad, eh.The opposite side provided a totally different perspective.More of a side view here. I believe the greenery is mainly creosote bush .A final side view of Cerro Castellan.There are overlooks where visitors can look down into Tuff Canyon, or with a short hike, you can climb down into the canyon and walk along it, which is what Peggy and I did. 30 million years ago, a nearby violent volcanic eruption sent ash and rocks shooting into the air. Heat and pressure when they landed turned the ash into the tuff seen along the canyon walls. We were curious about how these river bed rocks got into the erosion created holes. The only thing we could think of was a flooding stream working its way down the canyon.These were rocks that would have been thrown out by the eruption and embedded in the tuff.I liked this photo I caught of Peggy from what I recall was a shallow ‘cave’ in the tuff.Flowers growing out of crevices in the tuff wall. Life will find a way!Tuff cliffs towering over dark volcanic basalt. The end of the trail leading up the canyon.An ocotillo plant looked down on us from the rim.The Ocotillo, with a mouthful scientific name of Fouquieria splendens, is an interesting desert plant that usually looks like a dead, naked bush with wicked thorns, i.e. not something that you would want to mess with. The stems actually have chlorophyll and are capable of photosynthesis and sustaining the plant thorough dry times. Come rain, however, the plant becomes covered in leaves and really goes to work in food production. It also develops brilliant red flowers. Thus the ‘splendens’ in the scientific name.And finally we stopped to admire this mesquite tree on the way out.On our way to Santa Elena, we stopped for a walk up to the Dorgan House. There are several sites around Castolon that feature historical sites from the last 100 years or so. Dorgan was an architect involved in the local farming community. The remains of his house included this unique fireplace made from petrified wood. It was fun checking out the various rocks.I was particularly impressed with this rock. I saw an eye, a pig-like nose and a great set of choppers. I have the perfect location for it at home. But I didn’t take it. That’s a no-no in a National Park. If you should show up and find it missing, however, remember…I was framed. The Rio Grande River flows out of these limestone cliffs where it has cut the Santa Elena Canyon some 1,500 feet (450 m) deep at Santa Elena.The canyon travels back some 8 miles from its mouth (shown here). Visitors can sign up for a raft trip down the river, or even run it on their own assuming they have a degree of white water expertise. Or, when river is low and slow, like it is here, you can paddle up it for 3-4 miles and then paddle back out. Or, visitors can wade across the creek on the right and hike a brief distance into the canyon.A view of the Rio Grande as it flows on its way after leaving the canyon. We were visited by a herd of peccaries (known locally as javelinas) one evening when we were at the Castolon Campground. These mammals are found as far south as Argentina. He did not like the fact I was following him around snapping photos…You might say it was a hair raising experience.On our way out we stopped by the Panther Junction Visitor Center to check out its display on duck billed dinosaurs that roamed the area. Bone provided perspective on a leg bone. Coming from the leg of a horse just above the hoof, he could relate. Plus he is a great fan of old bones. That’s it for today and for Big Bend National Park. Next up is Theodore Roosevelt National Park in North Dakota where the buffalo still wallow…
Right on its tail. That’s why he was bristling: “Back off, buddy.” I did. The whole herd came strolling through our campsite. How could I resist? Big Bend is amazing. I’m ever so glad that Peggy and I were able to go back there.
Reading your narrative and following along with these wonderful photos made me feel like I was there in the canyon, Curt, with you and Peggy. This was an excellent look at Big Bend–its history, present plants, rock formations, landscape and immense beauty. Thank you.
This is all so marvelous, Curt. I am in love with Ocotillo, and have never looked closely at the plant when it is dormant like that. Super beautiful streaks. I definitely would have hiked down into that canyon as you did, and I really love that photo of the composite rock. Super cool. The first person to explain that effect to me was Kellen, while they were in college getting a geology degree, which is kind of neat. The Cerro Castellan and water here are eye catching, and the javelinas too! I’ve yet to see one in the wild.
I could see you walking through Tuff Canyon with the same excitement that Peggy and I felt, Crystal. It was both incredibly interesting and beautiful! I remember when Kellen ‘took you’ on some great geology field trips.😁 Ocotillo is a neat plant. I wish one had been in bloom to complete the picture. Peggy and I found them blooming once in Joshua Tree National Park. Incredible. We’ve seen javelinas a few times on out trips through the Southwest, but not many. Thanks. –Curt
Another stellar post of photos and meanderings, Curt.. LOVE the flowers growing out of the rock.. “Flowers growing out of crevices in the tuff wall. Life will find a way!”
Yes!
Hey, look at the bright side your framing didn’t get you in any trouble this time! 😂😱😹
Great shot!
Carry on and keep having fun.., Of course you need no permission.. you do that quite well👏❣️💗🫶🏽
Thanks, Cindy. I always love it when I see a plant growing in such a difficult place you can’t help but ask, “How in the heck did it do that?”
Couldn’t help the “framing” joke. It was a natural.
“Carry on and keep having fun.., Of course you need no permission.. you do that quite well” Easy when you find so many things ‘fun’ to do. 😊
Nature is freaking unbelievable alright! OMIGOSH… your teachers and sheriffs could have had a field day with it.. . 😂🥺😱😂😂
Neither of us could ever get bored with the “fun in motion” 🫶🏽💓
I’ll drink to fun in motion. In fact, it’s just about wine-time here.
So much history preserved in stone! Mysteries of our past too.
My favorite photo is the ocotillo. The yellow flowers looked suspiciously like some of our oxalis species, but it seems they might be a celandine: perhaps Chelidonium majus. The composite rock reminded me of the candy known as jelly nougat, with its bits of red, green, and yellow jelly in a nougat base.
As for all that tuff, it’s geologically cool but also a reminder that there always is a song! Let me find a good link.
Tuff enough for sure, Linda. made me smile, as did the shirt that Stevie was wearing. The ocotillo was pretty much begging to have its photo taken!
Thanks for the addition on the flower, Linda. Appreciated. As for the jelly nougat, I remembered what it was once I saw its photo. It was never on my list of favorite candies, which may be why my memory banks weren’t working. Now a sugar daddy or a tootsie roll would have come up immediately!
Another great entry in your NP series. I do love the water photos of course (so pretty), and the pic of you framed, and also the one of the ocotillo plant.
Alison
Thanks, Alison. That’s just about it for my National Park series, I put up Theodore Roosevelt NP yesterday. Next Monday, we will be heading for the Danube and a vacation from my blog for a month. Grin. When I come back, however, I am going to return to our trip down the Colorado through the Grand Canyon with lots of photos Peggy and I didn’t use before. –Curt
Wandering through Time and Place 
What an amazing place! Thank you for sharing your experience. It looks like you were really close to that peccary.
Right on its tail. That’s why he was bristling: “Back off, buddy.” I did. The whole herd came strolling through our campsite. How could I resist? Big Bend is amazing. I’m ever so glad that Peggy and I were able to go back there.
Reading your narrative and following along with these wonderful photos made me feel like I was there in the canyon, Curt, with you and Peggy. This was an excellent look at Big Bend–its history, present plants, rock formations, landscape and immense beauty. Thank you.
You are very welcome, Jet. Glad you could come along. I know your appreciation of natural beauty. –Curt
This is all so marvelous, Curt. I am in love with Ocotillo, and have never looked closely at the plant when it is dormant like that. Super beautiful streaks. I definitely would have hiked down into that canyon as you did, and I really love that photo of the composite rock. Super cool. The first person to explain that effect to me was Kellen, while they were in college getting a geology degree, which is kind of neat. The Cerro Castellan and water here are eye catching, and the javelinas too! I’ve yet to see one in the wild.
I could see you walking through Tuff Canyon with the same excitement that Peggy and I felt, Crystal. It was both incredibly interesting and beautiful! I remember when Kellen ‘took you’ on some great geology field trips.😁 Ocotillo is a neat plant. I wish one had been in bloom to complete the picture. Peggy and I found them blooming once in Joshua Tree National Park. Incredible. We’ve seen javelinas a few times on out trips through the Southwest, but not many. Thanks. –Curt
Another stellar post of photos and meanderings, Curt.. LOVE the flowers growing out of the rock.. “Flowers growing out of crevices in the tuff wall. Life will find a way!”
Yes!
Hey, look at the bright side your framing didn’t get you in any trouble this time! 😂😱😹
Great shot!
Carry on and keep having fun.., Of course you need no permission.. you do that quite well👏❣️💗🫶🏽
Thanks, Cindy. I always love it when I see a plant growing in such a difficult place you can’t help but ask, “How in the heck did it do that?”
Couldn’t help the “framing” joke. It was a natural.
“Carry on and keep having fun.., Of course you need no permission.. you do that quite well” Easy when you find so many things ‘fun’ to do. 😊
Nature is freaking unbelievable alright! OMIGOSH… your teachers and sheriffs could have had a field day with it.. . 😂🥺😱😂😂
Neither of us could ever get bored with the “fun in motion” 🫶🏽💓
I’ll drink to fun in motion. In fact, it’s just about wine-time here.
So much history preserved in stone! Mysteries of our past too.
It’s pretty much the source of our knowledge for anything truly ancient, G.
My favorite photo is the ocotillo. The yellow flowers looked suspiciously like some of our oxalis species, but it seems they might be a celandine: perhaps Chelidonium majus. The composite rock reminded me of the candy known as jelly nougat, with its bits of red, green, and yellow jelly in a nougat base.
As for all that tuff, it’s geologically cool but also a reminder that there always is a song! Let me find a good link.
Here it is: Stevie Ray and Jimmy together. That sure is Tuff Enough!
Tuff enough for sure, Linda. made me smile, as did the shirt that Stevie was wearing. The ocotillo was pretty much begging to have its photo taken!
Thanks for the addition on the flower, Linda. Appreciated. As for the jelly nougat, I remembered what it was once I saw its photo. It was never on my list of favorite candies, which may be why my memory banks weren’t working. Now a sugar daddy or a tootsie roll would have come up immediately!
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Really nice photos, Curt! I loved seeing the healthy plant life in the tuff as well as all the geologic formations.
Thanks, Lexi. I was impressed with the plant life there as well! (Obviously)
Another great entry in your NP series. I do love the water photos of course (so pretty), and the pic of you framed, and also the one of the ocotillo plant.
Alison
Thanks, Alison. That’s just about it for my National Park series, I put up Theodore Roosevelt NP yesterday. Next Monday, we will be heading for the Danube and a vacation from my blog for a month. Grin. When I come back, however, I am going to return to our trip down the Colorado through the Grand Canyon with lots of photos Peggy and I didn’t use before. –Curt
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