Prepare to be dazzled with a kaleidoscope of color on a drive through Twenty Mule Team Canyon in Death Valley. Various minerals are responsible for the colors.
Death Valley is a land of superlatives. Think hottest, lowest, and driest place in North America. It holds the world record for heat at 134 ˚ F (57˚ C). Ground temperatures have actually been measured at 201˚ F. As for rainfall, there are years without any and the annual average is 2.36 inches (60 mm). Finally, a trip into Badwater Basin, easily reachable by car, will drop you down to 282 feet below sea level.
Given these extremes, a person might wish to travel to Death Valley for the sole purpose of saying he or she has been there. (Or conversely avoid Death Valley passionately.) But from my perspective, the reason for visiting Death Valley is its exotic beauty. Over the past three weeks, I’ve taken you to the Valley of Fire and Red Rock Canyon. Not bad on scenery, eh? Consider it a warm up.
I’ve been to Death Valley numerous times and have blogged about it in the past. On our recent trip, we climbed out of the valley and explored other parts of the National Park including Twenty Mule Team Canyon, Dante’s View, Zabriskie Point and the unusual Charcoal Kilns high up in the Panamint Mountains.
Today, we will begin our journey with a drive through the colorful badlands of Twenty Mule Team Canyon. Imagine for the moment, taking 18 mules and two horses, hitching them to a huge wagon, and hauling 10 tons of borax over desert terrain for 160 miles. That is how borax was hauled out of Death Valley between 1883-1889 and it has become part of the local lore and legend. Francis Smith, the founder of Pacific Borax was also a first class promoter and sent his mule teams out to major cities across the US to push his soap products. At one point, they paraded down Broadway in New York City.
This early, unattributed photo in the public domain, provides a view of the 20 mule team with its Death Valley backdrop. The driver had a very long bullwhip to encourage his mules along the way.
The mules were eventually replaced by a steam tractor. “Old Dinah” is featured at Furnace Creek. Dinah, in turn, was replaced by a railroad.
Twenty Mule Team Canyon was never part of the route the mules followed. So why the name? It could have been to honor the teams but I suspect it was the bright idea of a tour agent. Whatever, no harm was done. Twenty Mule Team Canyon provides a kaleidoscope of color, a laboratory of erosion, and a fun drive.
The 2.8 mile road through Twenty Mule Team Canyon is a fun drive but it isn’t made for large RVs or fifth wheels. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)
Every corner you turn brings a new view and most are quite dramatic…
Case in point.
Another road shot. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)
I liked the effect of these contrasting light and dark colors.
Blue skies, light clouds provide a backdrop for gold, reddish-brown and tan rocks.
A number of trails wander off into the rocks, inviting visitors to stay for a while and explore. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)
Mountains provide the backdrop here. These, BTW, are the Funeral Mountains.
More distant mountains appear almost purple. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)
Peggy admires the view.
A final view of the riotous colors found in Twenty Mule Team Canyon.
NEXT BLOG: We check out what is probably the most photographed area of Death Valley, Zabriskie Point, and climb 5000 feet above the valley to Dante’s View floor for a bird’s eye perspective.
Wandering through Time and Place 
Love Death Valley!
Enjoyed looking at the pictures – though I’d hate to be there in the summer, lol.
Definitely not a place to visit in summer unless you really, really like 120˚ F weather. 🙂 Thanks for stopping by. –Curt
I visited Death Valley in 1978 and have always remembered it. By serendipity we went in the spring and the cacti were in bloom – beautiful. As is the landscape.
Your photos remind me of the ever changing landscape of the Atacama Desert – so much variety and beauty.
The variety and beauty are amazing. Deserts are one of those places that you have to visit to truly appreciate. I need to make it to the Atacama. But after Peru. 🙂 –Curt
Follow our route backwards – Peru, then across the altiplano and High Desert of Bolivia, then the Atacama 🙂
Thinking, thinking. 🙂
Fabulous series! Stunning place~
One of the most stunning in the world, Cindy. Thanks. –Curt
Pingback: Death Valley: Part I: The Twenty Mule Team Canyon… The Desert Series
Beautifully photographed. Not very hospitable for man or mule.
And it is indeed beautiful. It takes special animals and special people to find it hospitable. But they do exist, AC. –Curt
Color, color, color! It is always astounding how colorful we find the desert, a photographer’s joy! Peggy
It is indeed an artist’s palette. Color, form and texture capture the eye, camera and soul. –Curt
Apart from the tortoise, the jackrabbit and those wonderful red rocks, I just didn’t resonate so very much with your previous post on Las Vegas. Different strokes, and all that. But these photos are absolutely stunning. I’d love to visit here, although I think I’d be a little cautious about wandering off alone on those paths.
Twenty Mule Team Borax was a part of life when I was growing up. I’m not sure if my mom used it, but my grandmother certainly did. What fun to see a photo of a real mule team. I’m not sure I ever appreciated the reality behind the marketing campaign.
Speaking of marketing campaigns, it took me a little while to remember. Zabriski Point… Zabriski Point… Oh, yeah! I can’t wait for your post about that! 😉
Different strokes indeed, Linda. As for the paths, they are easy to follow. The point for the uninitiated is not to wander too far. You might end up seeing those mirages the desert is famous for. LOL Or you might run into the rattlesnake Peggy and I found and will feature in the blog after Zabriski Point. Bzzzzzz. 🙂 –Curt
Interesting “Old Dinah” was steam. I thought that required huge amount of water. Where to get it? You and Peggy are true appreciators of nature. Most people would be put off by traveling there, but your enthusiasm is catching.
Good question on the water, but there are occasional springs in the desert. An interesting note: the twenty mule teams carried a 1200 gallon tank of water along for the mules. Maybe the steam engine did as well. Glad our enthusiasm is catching. And we do indeed love to wander in far and remote places, the more natural, the better! 🙂 Curt
Stunning photos. I think I would like the wide open spaces, and the variety of colours. Music to my soul. Thanks Curt for sharing.
Glad you are enjoying the journey. And it is indeed good for the soul. May be the reason so many holy men moved out to the desert. LOL Did you ever make it to the Sahara in your wanderings? –Curt
No, not yet. But then, I’m not that adventurous. Did you?
No, and it is one of my regrets. Doesn’t mean I won’t get there yet. 🙂
Harsh climate, Beautiful views..I did not know that about Borax (I can still see the box in my Mom’s laundry room )
🙂
The climate can be mild… if you hit it exactly right. 🙂 The beauty is always there although it is harder to appreciate at 120˚. –Curt
Are these rocks sterol by nature, or were these ever fertile or forested?
The rocks were actually deposited in ancient lake and sea beds, Hilary.
sorry sterile.
I fondly recall the 20 mule team Borax commercials… I see them from a marketing perspective as the model after which Budweiser made its fortune. One aspect you wrote about is oddly echoing what I’ve always felt about Death Valley: stay away. It is but a hop, skip and a jump away and the furthest I would go into a desert would be Joshua Tree but I have never wanted to go there. Funeral Mountain is calling me.
I think you would be pleasantly surprised Koji, given your love of beauty that is obvious in your flower photography. Just don’t go in the summer. 🙂 –Curt
I shall take that as sound advice about summer!