Through the Heart of the Grand Canyon by Raft: Miles 60-135… The Great River Series #3

/ Curt Mekemson
This photo at mile 68.5 has a special meaning to me.

When I left Alaska in 1986 after three years of working as an executive director of a non-profit focused on health and environmental issues, I took six months off to solo backpack various locations in the West. My first stop was the Grand Canyon, perhaps not the best location to kick off a season of backpacking. Day one was spent hiking down the Tanner Trail from the high peaks on the rim to the scrawny tree on the right. I started with a 70 pound pack, including a generous amount of water. It was a steep, unmaintained, rocky and somewhat dangerous trail of 8-9 miles that dropped 4700 feet with the first source of water being the Colorado River.

Not surprising, I didn’t see another soul along the way and was exhausted when I arrived. I had just enough energy to pump some water, eat a handful of gorp, and throw out my tarp and sleeping bag. I buried my food bag in the sand next to me and crawled into my sleeping bag. That’s when the mouse chose to go dashing across my chest from its home at the base of the tree to my food sack. “Go away Mousey!” I yelled as I dropped into oblivion.

When I woke up in the morning, the first thing I checked was my food bag. Other than helping itself to some peanuts, Mousey hadn’t done much damage. I looked over at the tree to see if I could spot its home. Nope, but I did see something round, grey and skinny on the side of my tarp. “What the” I thought, and then it dawned on me. It was Mousey’s tail! Something had sat on the edge of my tarp and eaten the mouse during the night!

Heading on down the river, we continued our drop through time until we left the layered look of the canyon behind and and entered the dark metamorphic and granitic Vishnu Basement rocks of the inner canyon. That told us that we had passed the billion year mark in the Earth’s history.
Just past mile 84, after a long day, we stopped for the night at the Zoroaster camp site. An intense game of bocce ball entertained the troops. There seems to be some question over whose ball was the closest. I think Peggy’s stare was meant to persuade her ball to move closer via telekinesis. Steve seemed to be involved in a similar activity. Either that or he was wringing someone’s neck.
Sunset that night provided a dramatic contrast to the dark canyon walls and river. (Photo by Don Green.)
Three miles down the river the next morning brought us to the Kaibab Trail bridge that hikers and mules use traveling from the South Rim to Phantom Ranch. Tom had camped us near since one of our rafters, Nancy Pape, would be leaving us to hike up to the South Rim, and another, Jonas Minton, would be hiking down to join us.
Phantom Ranch welcomed Bone…
And Don.
Hamburgers and TV news occupied us while we waited for Jonas to arrive from his hike down the South Rim. I slipped outside…
To talk to a mule…
Admire the scenery above Phantom Ranch…
And ponder a bee as it worked a flower on a prickly pear.
Eventually Jonas, who was older than I, arrived exhausted from his hike down. I’d known Jonas since the 70s when he and Tom and I had been environmentalists in Sacramento fighting for clean water and air in California. He was known for his quirky sense of humor. Like Tom, Jonas was a longtime boatman. He would take over for Megan who was shifting to her kayak. We rode with Jonas to our next campground. Given how tired he was, the ride was a bit on the wild side with us bouncing off rocks twice. His experience and adrenaline kept us right side up, however, or as boatmen like to say, the messy side up. The smooth side is the bottom of the boat.
Things got strange in camp that night as Tom struggled for a new look… (Photo by Don Green.)
And decided to wear Bone. Bone told me afterwards: “You know Curt, I have had some strange experiences in my life. Like the time 50 Japanese tourists got off a bus and insisted on having selfies with me! But nothing has been weirder than this.” (Photo by Don Green.)
Or maybe not. Don’t ask.
We learned it’s always valuable to have a dentist along when someone’s foot needs attention. This is Bradley Yee, Tom’s dentist.
And Megan demonstrated how to get the best out of a yummy dessert by licking her plate clean.
All of which led Peggy to assume a bandida look and go incognito.
There was another magnificent sunset that night.
Crystal Rapids at mile 89, the next morning, presented a challenge. The water flow was high and dangerous. There was a long discussion between Steve and Tom whether to chance it or wait for the river to drop in a couple of hours. That’s possible because flows each day are determined by the amount of water released from Lake Powell, and the timing of the release. It was decided to wait, which meant more time to goof off.
The Dread Pirate Steve assumed his pirate persona…
And threatened to cut off Bone’s head if he didn’t tell Steve where he hid his gold.
A commercial boat went flying past us, providing a contrast with our private trip.
Working our way down the river, we passed a bighorn sheep.
And came upon the attractive Shinumo Creek at mile 108.5…
And hiked up it to see its 12 foot waterfall. The current was swift and the rocks were slippery. Thus the help. (Photo by Don Green.)
A few miles farther along, Tom had us stop at this charming grotto: Elves Chasm at mile 116.5.
And Tom, being Tom, had us leap 15 feet into an icy pool. Looks like Jamie was trying to fly. (Photo by Don Green.)
Damn, that water was cold!
Here I am looking much warmer and relaxed.
River view.
A camp group photo.
A view from our campsite in the evening. Gorgeous, isn’t it!
Moving on (because this post is already too long), another river view.
And another campsite. It was getting hot and we were hanging out under a tarp and flying a Jimmy Buffet flag. Tom’s a fan. I went searching on Google for the date when Tom and I had attended a Buffet concert at Lake Tahoe in the early 80s. AI responded that Buffet had never had a concert at the Lake. Scrolling down to his tours, I learned Buffet had been there in 1981 and 82. I think we attended the Coconut Telegraph Tour in 1981. The moral of the story here is… don’t trust AI, at least not yet. If it can screw up Jimmy Buffet, imagine what it can do with medical information.
Our final stop for this post was at Christmas Tree Cave ay Mile 135.5.
It was big…
And inhabited by strange creatures. Run! Next post: Two incredibly beautiful streams that flow into the Colorado River: Deer Creek and Havasu Creek. Plus the world famous Lava Falls Rapids.

24 thoughts on “Through the Heart of the Grand Canyon by Raft: Miles 60-135… The Great River Series #3”

  4. It’s always fun to see Bone. I have friends who have a cute little stuffed critter who’s traveled the world with them in the same way. I just got a photo of him taken with New Zealand’s Doubtful Sound as background. My gracious, that land is beautiful! I’m not inclined toward this sort of river rafting, but I sure would like to sail that sound.

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    • Steve of the Groover Raft had a stuffed critter as well. It came with its own raft and floated along behind his. I’ve never been to Doubtful Sound but I’ve been to Milford Sound just to the south of it. Beautiful is the best word to describe it Linda. Incredible waterfalls coming off of the surrounding cliffs. Peggy and I took a small boat tour around it. Not sailing but impressive none-the-less. Bone was there with us. Afterwards we took a helicopter ride up to a glacier overlooking the Sound.

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  5. I don’t think it would be possible for this post to be too long, Curt. What an amazing adventure, and it looks like quite a fun group. Even Bone seemed quite at home with everyone. The views are stunning. I’ve only seen the canyon from up top looking down. You made me want to see it the other way around. Wonderful post.

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  6. I really admire the fun you have in your travels. I think it takes extraordinary folks to be able to plan this together and remain great friends! Myself…it is raining of all things today! My daughter traveled over to Spokane to visit her daughter at Gonzaga for a few days and my days continued with reading, good movies, great books and the slow cooker simmering away. Take care! And! My Wellness Checkup today!

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    • Good luck in your wellness check, Wendy. And how is Gonzaga going for your granddaughter. Slow cooking. Yum. Peggy and I make great use of our insta-pot.
      I’m ever so lucky to have Peggy and my best buddy. We laugh a lot with whatever we are doing.

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  7. That is a really fun group and the group photo is awesome. I didn’t realize there was a permanent settlement at the bottom, at Phantom Ranch. And an actual bridge across the river to it. That blows my mind. I am proud of you for the courage it took to first scramble upstream to the waterfall, and then jump into that cold water!

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