Lake Aloha is one of the Desolation Wilderness’s best known landmarks. It was lower this year than I have ever seen it, but still dramatic with its backdrop of the Sierra peaks.
I ran my first Sierra Trek through the Desolation Wilderness in 1975. The year before, I had created a nine-day, hundred-mile backpack trip as a fundraiser for the American Lung Association in Sacramento. With high hopes of not losing anybody, I had chosen a route across the Sierra Nevada Mountains that was used for a popular horse-endurance race from Squaw Valley to the foothill town of Auburn. Known as the Tevis Cup Trail, it was well marked with yellow ribbons and horse poop.
While the route had been easy to follow, we had been faced with struggling up and down steep canyon trails in 100 degree plus weather (37.7 C) in the Sierra Nevada foothills. I’d vowed to keep future trips higher in the mountains. My 1975 adventure had zigzagged through the Granite Chief and Desolation Wilderness areas, occasionally touching on what would become the finalized PCT.
When my plan to take my 13-year-old grandson into some of the more remote sections the Desolation Wilderness was cut short by his sprained ankle, I revised my plan and backpacked from Donner Pass to Echo Summit. I’ve already done posts on the Donner Summit through the Granite Chief Wilderness. Today’s photo essay will focus on Desolation.
The Desolation Wilderness is one of the most highly used wilderness areas in America. One reason is because of the numerous lakes. Middle Velma Lake, where I camped, is a popular destination. Like Lake Aloha, it is filled with small islands. A view of Middle Velma Lake early in the morning from near my campsite as the sun rose in the east. Not long afterward, the sun was lighting up the trees that overlooked my campsite.My morning hike took me to the top of Dick’s Pass which provided a view of Dick’s Lake. More distant views from the pass were limited by smoke from the summer’s fires. My hike down from the pass took me by these flowers…These berries…A very knotty cedar…And this view of distant mountains. I found an isolated campsite on Susie Lake. Given the popularity of Desolation Wilderness and the lake’s proximity to a trailhead, it wasn’t easy. The campsite also provided this view.Hiking up to Lake Aloha the next morning, I passed by Heather Lake.One of my first views of Lake Aloha. I once organized a 60 mile cross-country ski trek that included skiing across the lake. That night we had played on the mountains across the lake while skiing under a full moon. The mountain on the far left is Pyramid Peak.This driftwood had washed up on the shore of Pyramid Lake.A closer view of Pyramid Peak across Lake Aloha.Coming out at Echo Lake. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)Being greeted by Desolation Wilderness volunteers Maryann Frantz and Charlene Clark.
As most of you are aware, the world famous traveling Bone has been ‘hiking’ with me on this journey. (He rides comfortably in a pouch and urges me to hike faster when I am making my way up steep mountains.) After coming out at Echo Lake, Peggy joined me on a day hike to take Bone back to his origin where my friend Tom Lovering and I found him south of Highway 50 in 1977 beside what is now the PCT. He has been traveling the world ever since.
Tom and I with Bone outside of the Fox and Goose Restaurant in Sacramento. Tom once owned an outdoor/wilderness store that was located in the same building. The goose seems quite interested in Bone. Over the years, numerous people have carried Bone including Mary Johnson who has taken Bone to the top of Mt. Kilimanjaro to the base of Mt. Everest. She also took Bone on an elephant ride.Many others have simply befriended Bone like Linda and Bob Bray. Bob actually went to First Grade with me and continued on for another 14 years through community college.Bone was excited to be returning to his home and posed on a PCT sign. “I am going back to my roots” he proudly proclaimed to anyone who would listen. Including this group of backpackers from Sacramento and San Francisco. Indisputable proof that Bone has roots.Always up for adventure, Bone went toadstool surfing on our way to where Tom and I found him.Snow still covered sections of the trail in 1977. I was following tree blazes when I spotted something strange in a field of young corn lilies. It turned out to be Bone. Forty generations of corn lilies have come and gone since and this year’s crop had already grown up. Bone figured they would be good for sunbathing.We completed our trip to Bone’s home with him regaling Peggy with tales from his childhood.
NEXT POST: Lyla the Dog… NEXT BACKPACKING POST: The trail between Castle Crags State Park and Burney Falls.
Wanderer, writer, photographer and activist. I've now settled in Southern Oregon. 1.8 million acres of national forest are out the backdoor and the beautiful Applegate River is out the front door. I like travel, reading, history and wild places. I am married to the lovely, funny, bright Peggy.
I don’t think that has ever been a problem, AC. But there was the time a custom agent in New Zealand tried to seize him as animal matter. You should have heard Bone squawk. 🙂 –Curt
Curt, It was great to meet you and Peggy at Echo Summit in August. I can’t think of a better way to celebrate turning 75 than to hike more than 10 times that number of miles.
So, you’re telling us you did the PCT before it was the “finalized” PCT. Very impressive. Not to mention the fact that it makes you older than the actual PCT! 😀
Marvelous images of a fantastic corner of our world. Easy to see why this might be a favorite section.
The concept was around since the 30’s Gunta. So, I am not quite that old. (Close:)) Congress made it official in 1968— the year before I started backpacking, but it wasn’t until 1993 that the trail was completed. And they are still changing sections.
Thanks, the lakes and granite mountains make it very special. –Curt
I can see why the “desolation” area isn’t so desolate anymore – it’s beautiful. When I go back to the places I grew up I barely recognize them anymore. How did Bone fare?
Beauty, accessibility and closeness to large population centers— all guarantees of popularity. Still, it has areas that are relatively isolated, Dave. Normally, I head for them. –Curt
Me too, Gerard. I am a lover of wide open spaces whether in the mountains or in the deserts. And yes, Bone felt right at home. Heck, he was at home. 🙂 –Curt
Best vehicle bumper sticker I’ve seen in awhile. You are simply too much Curt! Lovely post and I predict a most excellent book will result from this adventure of yours. All my best to You and Peggy.
Thanks, JoHanna! Hope so. I enjoyed your latest post on the Flagstaff murals. I’ve always liked the town, from the first time I drove though it in 1968. Adding murals only makes it better. –Curt
Your photos in this post are stunning! What great light and lakes. This also reminds me that I have a very overdue post about Bone’s trip to Cherokee country. I’m going to get right on that.
Ok! It’s all done! Scheduled to post on the 15th. I’m sure you’ll love it, late though it may be. Bone will have fun remembering everything we did, too.
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35 thoughts on “The Desolation Wilderness: Hiking on the PCT at 75”
Animalcouriers
Bone could become a spy on the PCT, he blends in so well to many backgrounds.
Curt Mekemson
I know, he is hard to spot at times. 🙂
Animalcouriers
Don’t go leaving him behind!
Curt Mekemson
I don’t think that has ever been a problem, AC. But there was the time a custom agent in New Zealand tried to seize him as animal matter. You should have heard Bone squawk. 🙂 –Curt
Animalcouriers
😂
spanishwoods
Love it!
Curt Mekemson
Thanks, Sylvia. 🙂 –Curt
GP Cox
You’ve shown me parts of our beautiful country I haven’t heard of before, and Bone has been to parts some of us will never see!!
Curt Mekemson
Lots more coming on the PCT. So true about Bone, G. I’m envious at times. 🙂 –Curt
shoreacres
I’m not quite sure how I’ve developed such fondness for Bone, but I have — wonderful photos, and wonderful post!
Curt Mekemson
He really likes you, too, Linda. And thanks. Appreciated. –Curt
M.B. Henry
Wow those pictures of the Desolation Wilderness are amazing. Would love to visit there someday!
Curt Mekemson
It’s a great place, MB. Even more so when you move away from some of the more populated sections. –Curt
leggypeggy
Amazing how gorgeous Desolation can be. And Bone sure has a large following.
Curt Mekemson
I’ve always wondered a bit about the name, Peggy. As for Bone, you are absolutely right. He has many adoring fans. 🙂
Bill Baron
Curt, It was great to meet you and Peggy at Echo Summit in August. I can’t think of a better way to celebrate turning 75 than to hike more than 10 times that number of miles.
Curt Mekemson
Thanks so much, Bill. Meeting folks like you along the trail was one of the highlights of the trip. –Curt
Gunta
So, you’re telling us you did the PCT before it was the “finalized” PCT. Very impressive. Not to mention the fact that it makes you older than the actual PCT! 😀
Marvelous images of a fantastic corner of our world. Easy to see why this might be a favorite section.
Curt Mekemson
The concept was around since the 30’s Gunta. So, I am not quite that old. (Close:)) Congress made it official in 1968— the year before I started backpacking, but it wasn’t until 1993 that the trail was completed. And they are still changing sections.
Thanks, the lakes and granite mountains make it very special. –Curt
Dave Ply
I can see why the “desolation” area isn’t so desolate anymore – it’s beautiful. When I go back to the places I grew up I barely recognize them anymore. How did Bone fare?
Curt Mekemson
Beauty, accessibility and closeness to large population centers— all guarantees of popularity. Still, it has areas that are relatively isolated, Dave. Normally, I head for them. –Curt
gerard oosterman
I like desolation. Australia too has many areas of desolation, yet eerily beautiful. Bone would feel at home.
Curt Mekemson
Me too, Gerard. I am a lover of wide open spaces whether in the mountains or in the deserts. And yes, Bone felt right at home. Heck, he was at home. 🙂 –Curt
Richard Schulte
That old Bone really gets around!
Curt Mekemson
Laughing. Yes he does, Richard.
Mél@nie
MAGNIFIQUE, Curt!!! your mountains look so much like our Pyrénées and their wonderful lakes… ❤
Curt Mekemson
Nature in all of her splendor! 🙂
Oh, the Places We See
Again . . . more GREAT photos! And that gnarly tree — oh, my! Thanks for sharing your part of the world with us Southerners.
Curt Mekemson
Laughing. I can’t resist gnarly trees, as you have probably noticed. And I have enjoyed sharing the mountains… my home away from home. –Curt
JoHanna Massey
Best vehicle bumper sticker I’ve seen in awhile. You are simply too much Curt! Lovely post and I predict a most excellent book will result from this adventure of yours. All my best to You and Peggy.
Curt Mekemson
Thanks, JoHanna! Hope so. I enjoyed your latest post on the Flagstaff murals. I’ve always liked the town, from the first time I drove though it in 1968. Adding murals only makes it better. –Curt
Crystal M. Trulove
Your photos in this post are stunning! What great light and lakes. This also reminds me that I have a very overdue post about Bone’s trip to Cherokee country. I’m going to get right on that.
Crystal M. Trulove
Ok! It’s all done! Scheduled to post on the 15th. I’m sure you’ll love it, late though it may be. Bone will have fun remembering everything we did, too.
Curt Mekemson
Bone is excited, Crystal. 🙂 And so am I. Thanks. –Curt
Curt Mekemson
I told Bone. (grin) He has fond memories. And thanks on the post, Crystal. –Curt