Rome Walk-About: When Pickpockets Strike… Mediterranean Ports

May 3, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 10 Comments

One of the joys of walk-about is you come on treasures you might not see otherwise. This delightful elephant carved by Bernini is located near the Pantheon. It serves as the base for an obelisk.

If you’ve been following this blog, you know we like to walk extensively when visiting a new city. It’s a good way to become acquainted with the region and its people. Plus it’s great exercise. While Rome is huge, the historic section is confined to a relatively small section. It was large enough, however, that we used mass transit for longer distances.

There were two challenges. The first was figuring out the where and when of catching a train in a language we didn’t speak. The second was that the subway is a great place for pickpockets, especially during rush hour. Rick Steves, in his book on Mediterranean Ports, was constantly admonishing us to be on theft alert.

Peggy, who is more paranoid than I, is always urging me to transfer my wallet to my front pocket when we are in a crowd. Sometimes I even comply. Once, she didn’t even have to ask. We were in Amsterdam and the city had put up huge banners across the streets warning people about thieves.

Neither did I require urging in Rome. Folks in Southern Europe were suffering from serious Euro Deficit Dysfunction. Times were tough. We both wore money belts.

The stories are legion about various scams. Travelers love to share tales. One of my favorites is a woman will ask you to hold her baby while her compatriots grab your wallet. No way was I going to hold a stranger’s baby. Heck, I’ll hardly hold the baby of a woman I know. Babies are known to burp and pee on you. Can you imagine the insult added to injury if a baby was burping and peeing on you while someone was stealing your wallet?

While the stories are fun, the problems are real. A man staying at our hotel lost 2000 euros. A woman on the ship told us she was waiting at the airport when a nicely dressed couple told her something was sprayed all over the back of her jacket. The woman took it off. Sure enough, the jacket was covered with green goop. While her husband took the jacket to the restroom to wash, the couple kept her company. They left when her husband returned. Only later did she realize that her purse left with them.

We were at the Termini, a major transfer point, when our turn came. It was at the peak of rush hour and the train was crammed full. John, Peggy’s brother, and his wife Frances had climbed on first. Four little kids, maybe eight years old, jumped on in front of us. Peggy and I were squeezing in when John shouted. He had felt someone reaching in his back pocket. Meanwhile, the four little kids were trying to jump off the train. Peggy, being the ex-elementary school principal she is, thought the kids were confused and tried to shove them back on. The little pickpockets, of course, thought she was trying to collar them. They managed to escape just as the doors were closing. Fortunately, John was also wearing a money belt. He kept his euros and we had a story to tell.

Besides our experience with the pickpockets, we had managed to visit Trajan’s Column, the Trevi Fountains and the Pantheon on our day’s walk-about.

This monument to Italy’s first King, Victor Immanuel, is huge, measuring 200 feet high by 500 feet wide. The statue of King Emmanuel, in the middle, is the largest equestrian statue in the world.

The emperor Trajan apparently had lots to say about his victorious Dacian campaign circa 103 AD. He told it on this column.

The emperor Trajan apparently had lots to say about his victorious Dacian campaign circa 103 AD. He told it on the bas-relief making its way up the 140-foot column. See below for detail. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

This photo shows how much detail is included on Trajan’s Column. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

Remember the song, “Three Coins In A Fountain”? Maybe not. Anyway, it was about Trevi Fountain, one of the must-sees on most tours of Rome.

I found this horse with its yellow ears waiting patiently outside the Pantheon. I took the photo for my cousin Alice who lives in Ohio and is a great horsewoman. I figured the ear-covers might be appreciated by horses living through cold Ohio winters.

The Pantheon, built to honor all of Rome’s gods, there were a lot, is one of the world’s most famous structures. Its dome served as a model for domes ranging from St. Peter’s Basilica to the US Capitol building.

This is a view of the Pantheon's interior.

The interior of the Pantheon is quite striking.

It was common practice for the Catholic Church to take over sites that had been used to worship Roman gods. The Pantheon was many.

It was common practice for the Catholic Church to take over sites that had been used to worship Roman gods. The Pantheon was one of many.

Another perspective of the Pantheon from outside.

Peggy caught this wonderful knocker on our Walk-About… (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

As she did this dragon lamp near the Pantheon.

I will conclude with these colorful buildings... again part of our fun walk-about.

I will conclude with these colorful buildings and narrow street… again part of our fun walk-about.

NEXT BLOG: On to Florence.

The Forum… Where Rome Ruled the (known) World

May 1, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 6 Comments

While much of the Forum today is in rubble, the temple of Antonius and Faustina still stands proudly.

While much of the Roman Forum is in rubble, the temple of Antonius and Faustina still stands proudly… fortunately. The striations around the columns were caused by someone trying to cut them down.

At the height of the Roman Empire, around 100 AD, Rome ruled from England to the Persian Gulf. The Mediterranean Sea was considered a Roman pond. The Forum, located next to the Colosseum, was the site of Rome’s government. Julius Caesar was killed here on the Ides of March, after which Mark Anthony gave his famous speech: “Friends, Romans and Countrymen, lend me your ears.” We included the Forum as part of a very long walk-about through historic Rome that included stopping by Trevi Fountain, visiting the Pantheon, fighting off pickpockets, and a heck of a lot more. I’m still tired. The following photos are from the Forum.

Excavating the Roman Forum is still very much a work in progress, as this photo shows.

I found the simple elegance of this single column outlined against a cloudy sky to be quite beautiful.

Ruins of Caligula's Palace in the Roman Forum

These columns were once part of Caligula’s Palace. Caligula, who enjoyed torturing people, built his horse a house and planned to appoint him as a Consul. It was around that time that Romans decided to assassinate the infamous emperor.

The building on the lower left, I believe, covers the site where Julius Caesar was assassinated. Above it, to the right, was the Temple of the Vestal Virgins. Their job was to stay chaste for 30 years and attend the eternal flame. Being bad got you buried alive.

The building on the lower left covers the site where the body of Julius Caesar was burned. Above it, to the right, was the Temple of Vesta, attended by the Vestal Virgins. Their job was to stay chaste for 30 years and attend the eternal flame. Being bad got you buried alive. Flings were few and far between. Palatine Hill, where the wealthy lived and cavorted, is in the background. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

The Arch of Titus commemorated the Roman victory over Judaea in 70 AD. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

While Peggy was capturing photos of important historical sites, I was busy with the local cat.

Temple of Constantine in the Roman Forum

What remains of the massive temple of Constantine, the Emperor who made Christianity the official religion of Rome. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

This impressive six-story arch commemorated the victory of the African born emperor Septimius Severus in far off Mesopotamia.

I like this photo of arches that Peggy took. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

Do you think the Latin says park bench? I was tempted.

For my last photo, I chose this magnificent boar. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

NEXT BLOG: We go on a walk-about through Rome and have a run in with pickpockets.

The Tombs of Tarquinia: An Etruscan City of the Dead… Mediterranean Ports

April 17, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 9 Comments

This beautiful pair of winged horses was found in a temple near the Etruscan tombs of Tarquinia. They are housed in the National Museum of Tarquinia. I immediately thought of Pegasus, the winged horse of Greek Mythology.

The Crown Princess sailed through the Tyrrhenian Sea into Rome’s port of Civitavecchia during the night. We had to make a decision; would we explore the region around the port or would we take the train into Rome.

Since we had flown into Rome at the beginning of our trip and already visited the major sites, Peggy and I, along with her brother John and wife Frances, decided to stay local. Our other two travelling companions, Kathi and Lee, opted for the hour train ride into Rome.

I had read in Rick Steve’s book on Mediterranean Ports about the Etruscan town of Tarquinia with its necropolis of 6000 tombs dating from 700-200 BC. I was eager to explore it. The Etruscans were precursors to the Romans… i.e. ancient. Also, in this age of movie vampires, werewolves and other creatures of the night, how could we resist visiting a city of the dead?

We scarfed down a quick breakfast onboard, grabbed the shuttle to town, and were soon knee-deep in cab drivers offering tours. Ninety euros bought the four of us a trip to the tombs and a visit to the National Museum of Tarquinia. Thirty minutes later we had made the short trip north of the port and were preparing to visit our first tomb.

Walking out to the site, we passed a number of large mushroom and hut shaped stone objects that had served as funerary urns for cremated bodies. Apparently these strange-looking urns, as well as more sophisticated sarcophagi (coffins), were found buried in the tombs.

These funerary urns found in Tarquenia were used for cremated remains and buried in tombs. The contrast of the green grass, dark clouds and bright sun made a colorful photo.

These funerary urns found in Tarquinia were used for cremated remains and buried in tombs. The contrast of the green grass, dark clouds and bright sun made a colorful photo.

This type of funerary urn shaped like a house was apparently for the remains of women.

This type of funerary urn shaped like a house was apparently for the remains of a woman. The more ‘mushroom’ shaped urns were for men.

The tombs were dug into stone and covered by small mounds, creating what might best be described as a bumpy hill. A number of the burial sites contained elaborate paintings. Small, modern buildings covered the stairs leading down into tombs. We switched on lights for our trip into the darkness. The tombs were sealed to protect the paintings. Miniature windows provided viewing for one person at a time. It was best to be first in line, rather than last and left alone with the dead… especially when the automatic lights shut off.

This photo shows one of the 2500 year old mounds beside the small modern that covers the stairs down to the tomb.

This photo shows one of the 2500 year old tomb mounds beside the small modern building that covers the stairs leading down into the tomb.

Stairs into an Etruscan tomb in Tarquinia

Peggy and Frances follow the stairs leading down into an Etruscan tomb.

The paintings provided a fascinating look into early Etruscan life. The Etruscans, it seems, believed that the soul remains with the body after death. The dead were stuck in their tombs for a long, long time. Make that eternity. With this in mind, people did what they could to make the tombs pleasant places to live. Family and friends were painted on the walls, as were parties and dancing and music and feasts and sex. Who could ask for more? At least that’s what the living hoped. The dead were dangerous if they started wandering around outside. Best they have fun in their own little underground houses.

The following examples are from the Lioness House.

This photo is taken looking at the tomb of the Lions through the small window proved for visitors. Note the musicians, dancers and lions.

This photo is taken looking at the tomb of the Female Lions through the small window provided for visitors. Note the musicians, dancers, dolphins, lions and door to a second room.

A close up of the lioness. The lioness obviously has nursing cubs. I would call her a Leopard.

A close up of the lioness. Hopefully, she has nursing cubs. I would call her a leopard because of her spots.

One of my favorite subjects in the tomb painting is the two dancers on the right. They seem to be having a great time.

I found this painting from another tomb particularly amazing. It looked like the lion on the right was wearing shades... a cool cat.

I found this painting from another tomb particularly amusing. It looked like the blue lion on the right is wearing shades; he is one cool cat.

Visiting the National Museum of Tarquinia finished off our tour. It is housed in a handsome building, the Palazzo Vitelleschi, which was begun in 1436 and completed around 1490.

The National Museum of Tarquinia is housed in the which was built between

The National Museum of Tarquinia is housed in the Palazzo Vitelleschi which was built between 1436-1490.

This Etruscan sarcophagus from the Tarquinian tombs was one of many at the National Museum. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

This Etruscan sarcophagus from the Tarquinian tombs was one of many at the National Museum. The person on top supposedly looked like the dead person inside. Also check out the winged guys on the side and the feet on the bottom. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)