Sailing Off into the Sunset… And On to New Adventures

June 11, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 12 Comments

What’s not to like about a beautiful sunset. This one took place off the southern coast of Italy in the Mediterranean Sea.

I am a sucker for sunsets, which is a good thing. Sunsets, waves and spectacular cloud formations are what pass for scenery on the open ocean. My dad, who started and ended his life as a painter, dismissed sunsets as postcard pictures. Nevertheless, when I went through several thousand of his photos after he died, I discovered numerous photos of the setting sun. Nobody can resist a beautiful sunset. Along with fireworks, they are the number one cause of oohs and ahs.

Mediterranean sunset off the coast of Southern Italy.

A close up of the same sunset shown above.

As for sailing off into the sunset, sailors have been doing this since the first sail was invented. (The western heroes of my youth rode off into the sunset, instead. After doing in the bad guys, they would kiss their girls goodbye– probably on the cheek, climb on their faithful horses, and ride off into the west as the sun sank behind the horizon and the picture slowly faded. “Hi-o Silver away!”)

Once we left our farthest point to the east, Kusadasi, Turkey, we sailed into the west all the way to Galveston, Texas. Since our ship inevitably pulled out of port in late afternoon, there were ample opportunities for sunset photos. I decided that a few of these sunsets, along with some cloud formations, would make a fitting end for my series on Mediterranean Ports.

Sun shining through clouds on the Atlantic Ocean.

Sun shining through clouds can be quite dramatic. We took this photo in the Atlantic.

Close up of the above photo. Somewhere in my youth, I was required to color clouds like this in Sunday School. The image has never quite left me.

Clouds over the sea can also provide drama, as this towering cumulus does.

Towering Cumulous cloud over the Mediterranean.

Another cumulus cloud over the Mediterranean.

The seabird soaring between the clouds spoke to how close we were to shore.

These clouds over the Atlantic appeared less threatening, but brought a storm.

This impressionistic photo of purples and pinks was taken in the Caribbean south of Florida at the end of the trip.

NEXT BLOGS: I hope you have enjoyed our journey through the Mediterranean. In three weeks Peggy and I will begin another adventure, this time driving from our home in Southern Oregon to Alaska via the Northwest US, British Columbia and the Yukon Territory. Please join us. In the meantime, I will introduce you to our hometown of Jacksonville, Oregon; take you on a trip though the Southwestern US exploring thousand-year-old Native American rock art, and catch up on what’s happening with Burning Man 2013. Peggy and I will again be traveling to Burning Man after we return from Alaska.

Getting Lost on the Greek Island of Mykonos… The Mediterranean Cruise

February 8, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 10 Comments

The area known as Little Venice is one of many charming sites on Mykonos. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

The maze-like town of Mykonos (Chora) was designed to discourage invasion. It was easy for invaders to get lost in the narrow, winding streets that ran into other narrow, winding streets that ran into other narrow, winding streets.

Modern day invaders, otherwise known as tourists, also find it easy to get lost. But that’s half the fun. Except for finding a restroom when you really, really need it, there is no danger. You can easily spend an hour or several wandering along the town’s crooked roads and paths. There are beautiful white buildings slathered in stucco to admire, shops to explore, and cats to photograph. You may even find a Greek musician playing the bouzouki, a mandolin-like instrument that produces what most people think of as Greek music. Picture Zorba dancing.

White is the common color for buildings on Mykonos, Santorini and other islands of the Cyclades in the Aegean Sea.

One of the main streets in Mykonos. This road is freeway size in comparison to most routes through the town.

Routes through Mykonos are much more likely to look like this. Note the blue trim used to add color to windows and doors.

This blue Mykonos door is decorated by a cactus.

My wife Peggy on the right and two of our traveling companions, Kathi and Frances stand in front of another blue door.

Bougainvillea seems to be the flower of choice in Mykonos.

A street musician entertained us by playing his bouzouki…

And a cat confiscated a cafe chair for its mid day snooze.

We managed to get both lost and separated. There was no hope of finding each other in the labyrinth, but fortunately we had a plan. We would meet at the island’s famous windmills. Long since retired, five of them remain hunkered down on a ridge south of town. Mykonos is noted for its winds. The locals even have names for them based on their intensity: bell-ringer, chair thrower, and knock you off your horse. We experienced a brief example of chair thrower but fortunately missed knock you off your horse.

The windmills used cloth sails to capture the winds and run mills for grinding grain. Local bakeries then turned the grain into sea biscuits, aka hardtack, which is flour and water baked several times into a consistency of hardness just this side of rock. The value of sea biscuits is they are basically indestructible. Before modern refrigeration, they were used on long sea voyages. Throw in a lime plus a generous dollop of rum and it was dinner. Producing these ‘delicacies’ was the island’s main industry.

One of the windmills of Mykonos. Dark clouds brought brief rain and a "throw a chair" wind.

One of the windmills of Mykonos. Dark clouds brought brief rain and a “chair thrower” wind. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

Three of the five windmills.

Following the coastline back into town we came upon Little Venice (pictured above), a community where sea captains of yore built mini-mansions perched on the ocean edge. Since it neither looks like Venice nor has canals, my thoughts are its name derived from its proximity to water. Either that or a real estate agent was involved. The community is quite colorful, however. I’d be glad to call it home.

Mykonos has some 70 churches to meet the needs of its 7000 residents, which seems a little like a lot. I am reminded of the number of Baptist churches found in the rural South of the United States. I once estimated there was one for each family. The Mykonosians had a unique use for their churches, however. They enshrined the bones of their dead relatives in the walls. I doubt the Baptists do this but it might give new meaning to the old saying, “the family that prays together, stays together.”

Scrunched between Little Venice and the harbor is the Church of Panagia Paraportiani, the most unusual church on the Mykonos. Once upon a time five different chapels existed side by side. Then they morphed together into what has become one of the most photographed sites on the island, with reason. We contributed our share of picture-taking.

The Church of Paraportiani of Mykonos.

Another view of the church.

The small harbor area of Mykonos definitely fits the description of picturesque. It was our last stop (except for lunch) on our way back to the ship. That’s where we met Petros the Pelican that I wrote about in my last blog. Unfortunately, it was Sunday and the local fishermen had taken the day off. We satisfied ourselves with admiring the boats. The area also features a small beach that would be crammed with sun worshippers in the summer. Now all it featured was golden sand and blue sea.

Idle fishing boats in the Mykonos harbor.

The golden sands and blue waters of the Aegean Sea of the small beach in Mykonos.

NEXT BLOG: We continue our Mediterranean cruise adventure and visit Athens, Greece.

Santorini’s Akrotiri: An Impressive Ancient City… but Is It Atlantis?

January 30, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 8 Comments

This piece of pottery is one of my favorites on display at the museum. I like to believe that the Minoans of Akrotiri had a sense of humor.

This piece of pottery is one of my favorites on display at the Museum of Historic Thira on Santorini. I like to believe that the Minoans of Akrotiri had a sense of humor. Note the red lips.

The small Museum of Historic Thira is definitely worth a visit if you are on the Greek island of Santorini. Located in the town of Fira, it’s mission is to trace the development of prehistoric Thira from 3000-1600 BC by displaying artifacts found in the ruins of ancient Akrotiri. Before Santorini blew its top in a massive volcanic explosion around 1600 BC and buried the city under a sea of volcanic ash, Akrotiri was a center of a Bronze Age Minoan Culture second only to Knossos on Crete.

Picture hot and cold water running water, indoor bathrooms, two and three-story buildings, beautiful frescos, intriguing pottery, weights and measures, and a fleet of ships that delivered cargo throughout the known world of the time. We are fortunate that many of these artifacts have been preserved under the volcanic ash, which makes Akrotiri similar to Pompeii. Unlike Pompeii, no bodies have been found in the ruins. Apparently the Minoans were given ample warning to escape.

This fresco is one of many that lined the walls of buildings in Akrotiri, Santorini is close to 4000 years old.

Excavations of the ruins, which are located on the southern part of Santorini, began in 1957 and continue today. Only a small portion of the city has been uncovered. Because of its level of civilization combined with the fact that it disappeared, there is speculation that Akrotiri may have served as the inspiration for the myth of Atlantis.

Plato mentioned the fabled city around 360 BC. He described it as an ancient civilization existing some 9000 years before his time that was buried under a flood of water. Modern archeologists suggest that the 9000 years may have been mistranslated from earlier Egyptian accounts and actually be 900 years, which would put the destruction of Atlantis right around the time Akrotiri met a similar fate. Substitute an ocean of ash for a sea of water and there is ample room for the speculation. Buried is buried. We will probably never know the truth.

The volcanic activity that brought Akrotiri to its spectacular end continues to be a fact of life on Santorini, however. “Santorini Bulges as Magma Balloons Underneath” a September 12, 2012 article in National Geographic news reported. Somewhere between 13-26 million cubic yards of molten rock were filling the magma chamber located directly under the sea where our cruise ship was anchored! The Crown Princess did not cover the bulge in its newsletter. Apparently, there is no imminent danger… at least to speak of.

Here’s another favorite Akrotiri artifact of mine. It’s called a nipple ewer (or pitcher) for obvious reasons. This one comes with tiny breasts, ear rings and a beak. Archeologists speculate that the ewers may have had religious significance. My wife Peggy, always practical, suggests that may have been used like baby bottles.

Another nipple ewer. This one featured a swallow. Both wild and domestic animals were featured prominently on Akrotiri artifacts. The yellow color, BTW, is because of the lights used by the museum to protect the ancient works of art.

I found this elongated double pitcher with its leaping dolphins to be quite graceful.

This reconstructed storage container features a bull that appears to be mooing quite loudly.

Much of the pottery found in Akrotiri also featured common crops grown by the Minoans. The grapes reflect the wine industry that has been in existence on Santorini for over 4000 years.

Much of the pottery found in Akrotiri also features common crops grown by the Minoans. The grapes on this jar reflect the wine industry that has been in existence on Santorini for over 4000 years.

The Museum of Historic Thira also displays a number of small figurines such as this bull.

For those who like to attribute alien influence to the development of Atlantis, I will end my photos from the museum with this piece, possibly as old as 2700 BC. (grin)

For those who like to attribute alien influence to the development of Atlantis, I will end my photos of artifacts from Akrotiri with this piece (grin), possibly as old as 2700 BC.

As we returned to our ship, which was anchored above the bulging lava chamber, we had a final look at the towering cliffs of Santorini and their beautiful white villages.

As we returned to our ship, which was anchored above the bulging lava chamber, we had a final look at the towering cliffs of Santorini with their beautiful white villages perched on top.

A beautiful sunset greeted our ship as we headed out to sea and our next adventure.

NEXT BLOG: I continue my travel blog on the Mediterranean with a visit to the second largest city in the Roman Empire, Ephesus, which is located on the Turkish mainland.

The Stairs, Doors and Gates of Santorini… Personality Plus!

January 28, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 16 Comments

Stairways of all shapes and sizes went snaking down off the cliff in Oia, Santorini. This one was rather grand.

When I was growing up in Diamond Springs, California, significant stairways were few and far between. Most of our homes were single floor western style ranch homes. Our climbing was more or less relegated to trees and lumber stacks, the latter much to the dismay of the grumpy watchman at Caldor Lumber Company who could never catch us. We learned a number of interesting words from him, however.

I’ve always been fascinated with stairs, particularly stairs that disappear around corners. They almost beg exploration, like a trail in the woods. Doors share a similar characteristic, especially interesting doors. I’m convinced that people who live behind interesting doors lead interesting lives. Unfortunately, doors tend to be very private affairs; they hide secrets.

Gates are different. They don’t say ‘stay out’ in the same way a door does… even when they sport a no-trespassing sign. Gates in Diamond Springs tended to be low on design and high on barbed wire. We climbed over with impunity except for being chased by dogs or yelled at. Old Tony Pavy was an exception; he had a shotgun that he was quick to pull when he caught kids gigging frogs in his pond or plunking squirrels out of his trees, especially the time I hit one of his pigs by mistake with a ricocheting bullet. The man had zero sense of humor. “Get my gun Mama!” he roared to his wife as we disappeared over the hill.

They have to have stairways in the town of Oia, Santorini. Houses are built right down the cliff and there are no elevators. People must be in great shape from all of the hiking. And here’s the fun part, all of the stairs are different and I think quite attractive. Peggy and I kept our digital cameras busy. We also found our share of interesting doors and two very attractive gates to photograph.

Another set of stairs with unique personality works its way down toward the Mediterranean in Oia, Santorini.

This set of stairs on Santorini added a touch of color.

Our traveling companions, the Dallens from Austin and Saages from San Francisco look down on several sets of stairs. It reminded me of an Echer painting.

Our traveling companions, the Dallens from Austin and Saages from San Francisco look down on several sets of stairs. It reminded me of an M.C. Escher painting.

Mules working down on the cliff used these stairs for carrying construction debris up to the top. These were definitely one-way stairs: the one-way being whichever way the mules were traveling.

The ultimate stairway on Santorini… the one that takes you from the old port up a thousand feet to the town of Fira.

Blue was about as close as it got to being a common door color on Santorini.

Blue seemed to be the most common door color on Santorini.

This halfway hidden door in Oia on Santorini caught my imagination. I wanted to go up and knock.

This halfway hidden door with its plant in Oia, Santorini caught my imagination. I wanted to go up and knock.

This house in Oia displayed an interesting choice of colors.

The most secretive of doors are old ones like this one in Oia.

The most secretive of doors are old like this one in Oia. It must have a thousand stories to tell.

This simple gate in Oia with its dramatic shadows was quite beautiful.

This simple gate in Oia with its dramatic shadows, white pillar and Mediterranean background was quite beautiful. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

The door/gate to nowhere: Peggy shot this photo in Fira, Santorini. There was nothing behind it except open space… and a set of stairs that went downward to a restaurant.

NEXT BLOG: We travel back in time 4000 years to Santorini’s ancient civilization of Thira. Could there be an Atlantis connection?

The Beautiful and Unique Churches on the Greek Island of Santorini

January 26, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 19 Comments

The Church of St. George in Oia, Santorini. Most, but not all of Santorini’s churches featured a blue dome.

Europe is filled with great churches that are known as much for their art and architecture as they are for religion. Our cruise through the Mediterranean would take us to some of the world’s most renowned cathedrals. While the churches on the Greek Island of Santorini are no match for the splendor of what you find in Venice, Rome or Florence, they have a subtle beauty and uniqueness of their own. The following photos are meant to capture something of their beauty.

This is a close up of the bell tower on the Church of St. George in Oia, Santorini. The bell towers throught the town were as unique as the churches.

This is a close up of the bell tower on the Church of St. George in Oia, Santorini. The bell towers throughout the town were as unique as the churches.

I found this church with its white rocks surreal.

A view of the same church seen in the photo above from behind.

This church provided and interesting backdrop for the homes in front.

This church provided an interesting backdrop for the homes in front. I also liked the fun play of light and shadow.

The Church of Panagia provides a gateway into Oia on Santorini. Once again, dramatic clouds added interest to our day of photography. (Photograph by Peggy Mekemson)

The bell tower of the Church of Panagia in Oia, Santorini.

Another of Santorini’s uniquely beautiful churches.

I like this church on Santorini because of its almost sensuous lines. Can a church be sensuous? Having the Mediterranean for a backdrop didn’t hurt either.

This is another perspective on the Santorini church shown above featuring its salmon colored bell tower.

My concluding photo on the beautiful and unique churches found on the Greek island of Santorini.

NEXT BLOG: Join me as I explore the picturesque stairways and doorways of Santorini.

Oia, Santorini… A Photographer’s Paradise

January 24, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 6 Comments

Oia is built on a cliff that drops off a thousand feet into the Mediterranean Sea. Its colorful buildings with their unique architecture and the beauty of the area combine to make the town truly unique.

Oia is built on a cliff that drops off a thousand feet into the Mediterranean Sea. Its colorful buildings with their unique architecture and plunging stairways combine with the beauty of the area to make the town truly unique.

Fira, the administrative center of Santorini, is a pleasant town and definitely worth wandering through. It is filled with shops selling everything from cheap souvenirs to fine jewelry, all of which are designed to separate tourists from their euros. But that’s OK, Santorini makes much of its living off tourists. What most impressed me about the town was its small but excellent Museum of Prehistoric Thira. I’ll blog about the museum next week.

What I am going to do now is make the short trip from Fira to Oia, which is arguably one of the most attractive towns in the Mediterranean, or anywhere. Oia, BTW, is pronounced EE-ah. As the daughter of a friend reminded me, it sounds like something Eeyore might say minus the donkey emphasis.

My recent blogs about my Peace Corps experience in Africa have been long on words and short on photos. That’s about to change as I make why way through the Mediterranean. Oia is best enjoyed by being there, but if you can’t be, the next best thing is through the eye of a camera.

Each of my next three blogs will provide a different perspective on the community. First, I am going to provide a general overview including buildings, animals, flowers and other miscellaneous items that caught our attention. (Peggy took several of the photos.) Next I will focus in on Oia’s unique churches. I’ll finish by looking at stairways and doors, which might seem strange… but don’t miss it. Enjoy.

Another view of the town that provides a perspective on how it clings to the cliff. The whitewashed buildings reflect heat from the intense summer sun.

The rounded roof of this home is typical. Once these homes provided housing for poor sailors. Now they provide housing for millionaires. Another note on these downward trending homes. One person’s patio becomes another person’s roof.

While the sailors lived in their homes on the cliff, sea captains built mansions on top.

I would have happily bought this colorful home.

Peggy captured this artistic shot from Oia looking down on the Mediterranean.

I mentioned the unique doors found in Oia. These are color coordinated.

Retired windmills are found on both Santorini and the island of Mykonos.

This sphinx in Oia provided an artistic touch and seemed right at home.

Peggy discovered this sculpture on the side of a building in Oia. Everyone should have a goal in life.

This restaurant sign promised a leisurely meal… or was that poor service?

Dogs ran free in Oia. We found this one climbing about on walls before he settled in for a nap. All of the animals seemed well fed and happy...

Dogs ran free in Oia. We found this one climbing about on walls before he settled in for a nap. All of the animals seemed well fed and relaxed around the tourists…

Maybe too relaxed. (grin)

There was no relaxation for this mule. He and his buddies were carrying debris being generated by a construction site down the cliff. These guys literally ran us off the road.

I discovered this colorful plant and couldn’t resist taking its picture.

Event the souvenirs featuring Santorini were colorful.

Even the souvenirs featuring Santorini were colorful.

One of the narrow walkways we followed through town. The lack of people was indicative of the fact we were traveling off-season. Instead of 3 or 4 cruise ships in port, there was only ours.

I’ll close this blog with a final shot of Oia. The blue domed building is one of the towns many beautiful churches, which I will feature in my next blog.