Puerto Vallarta Walkabout…

January 14, 2014January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 15 Comments

Husband day care center in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

You never know what you might find when wandering around a city. I was particularly impressed that this obvious tourist venue didn’t push timeshares. (And no, Peggy didn’t drop me off.)

Australia’s aborigines have it right. Going on a walkabout is good for the soul. (If this subject interests you, I highly recommend Bruce Chatwin’s Songlines.)

I am also one hundred percent convinced that a walkabout is the best way to see a city. Nothing– not cars, taxis, trains, busses or even bicycles, can match walking. Everything else is too fast. “Wow,” you think, “that’s great…” and it’s gone.

But if you are walking you can stop and savor, you can admire, touch, smell, and even listen to a city. So Peggy and I walk… whether we are wandering the streets of Rome, New York City, or Puerto Vallarta. Following are some of the sights we saw along the way on our recent visit to PV.

This resident checked us out. Apparently we didn't pass muster. he immediately started barking. I could still here him two blocks away.

This resident dog checked us out. Apparently we didn’t pass muster. He immediately started barking. I could still hear him two blocks away.

Art on the Malecon of Puerto Vallarta. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

These dogs, created by an artist on the Malecon, were more colorful, and quieter. I also liked the red bird, but who knows what it was up to. Picking off fleas???

The flying cow of Puerto Vallarta. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Also under the category of strange was this flying cow.

As were these two cuties. Day of the Dead skeletons are common throughout Mexico. BTW, I swear I did not position my camera to catch the railing circles in such prime locations. I only discovered this fortuitous positioning when I went to post the photo.

The bird men of Puerto Vallarta. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Then there are the Bird Men of Puerto Vallarta who climb up a hundred foot pole… (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

Bird men of Puerto Vallarta. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

And tie themselves to ropes. The man in the center plays a flute and beats on a drum. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

And then fall off backwards, twirling around the pole in ever larger circles until they reach the ground, or their rope runs out. (just kidding.) The people who perform this aerial feat every hour or so indigenous performers demonstrating an ancient cultural tradition of the Totonac tribe. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

They then fall off backwards, twirling around the pole in ever larger circles until they reach the ground, or run out of rope. (Just kidding on the rope running out.) The people who perform this aerial feat are indigenous performers demonstrating an ancient cultural tradition of the Totonac tribe. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

Puerto Vallarta home. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

One thing we always check out is architecture. Peggy and I both like the adobe and tile look of Mexico and the Southwest of the US. It seems that Puerto Vallartans like to add something extra on top of their homes, like the small room. Another thing: note the shoes hanging off the power line in the upper left hand corner, undoubtably thrown there by a teenager. Is this behavior worldwide?

Another ‘topper’ we found. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

Speaking of power lines, it is almost impossible to take a photo in Puerto Vallarta without them. They run willy-nilly everywhere.

Burton and Taylor homes in Puerto Vallarta. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

If I remember my geography right, these two houses were where Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor hung out during the filming of the Night of the Iguana.

Tourist shop in Puerto Vallarta. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

While there are expensive, high-end shops in Puerto Vallarta, the majority are open-air tourist meccas like this one. It seems like there are hundreds of them. The young woman on her cellphone would normally be outside soliciting people to come in and look around.

Puerto Vallarta craftsperson. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Crafts people and artists are common along the Malecon. This young man featured purses and jewelry made from beer and soda can pop tops.

Street vendor selling food in Puerto Vallarta. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Street vendors selling food are also common.

I already took you on a tour of Puerto Vallarta’s fantastic sculptures. Murals are also common in the city. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

Puerto Vallarta mural. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

A close up showing children in a ring dance. Ring around Rosita?

Puerto Vallarta mural featuring indigenous person. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

While most Puerto Vallarta murals feature ceramics, I found this painting of an indigenous person quite impressive.

The Artist’s Cafe also featured an impressive mural. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

Artist's Cafe mural in Puerto Vallarta. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

A close up of the mural on Artist’s Cafe.

Puerto Vallarta mural featuring iguana. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

One mural incorporated a pair of iguanas including this handsome fellow.

My favorite mural, and in fact my favorite art piece was a 196 by 9 feet mural designed by

My favorite mural, and in fact my favorite art piece in Puerto Vallarta, is a 196 by 9 feet mural designed by Natasha Moraga. I understand it is under threat of removal by the government. Why, I don’t know, but it would be tragic.

Made with tile and glass, the mural uses mirrors to reflect the street scene behind it, an effort that adds both beauty and interest.

Wall mural by Natasha Moraga in Puerto Vallarta. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Numerous patterns and scenes are incorporated into the mural. This was one of my favorites.

Puerto Vallarta wall mural. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Major contributors are honored with their own tiles. This one was amusing. It appears Luis Rita has a house full of dogs.

Most murals we found in Puerto Vallarta feature a rendition of the town’s primary landmark, the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe, which I will feature in my next blog.

Puerto Vallarta's swinging bridge. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

I’ll use this photo of Peggy crossing a swinging bridge as my last photo of our Puerto Vallarta walkabout. And believe me, the bridge does swing.

NEXT BLOG: Puerto Vallarta’s beautiful Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe.

Revolution, a Treasure, Dragons and Ghosts of Hollywood… San Sebastian, Mexico

January 9, 2014January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 18 Comments

Photo of rooftops in San Sebastian , Mexico. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Nestled in the Sierra Madre Mountains above Puerto Vallarta, the town of San Sebastian was once a bustling silver mining town of 20,000. Now it is a quiet village of 600.

We didn’t plan on visiting San Sebastian del Oeste on Mexican Independence Day. Neither did we expect to have a guide immersed in Mexican history. It was all happenstance, a fortuitous occasion. As our bus climbed the steep, curvy road into the Sierra Madre Mountains above Puerto Vallarta, our talkative guide climbed on his soapbox. We learned a lot about the Mexican Revolution.

On November 20, 1910, people throughout Mexico were urged to rise up in revolt against Mexico’s autocratic president, Porfirio Diaz. Times were bad, especially for the poor, i.e. just about everybody. Ninety five percent of Mexico’s wealth was controlled by five percent of the population. Vast swaths of land were tied up in haciendas. Peasants who worked these haciendas were treated little better than slaves.

It would take over a decade but eventually the people of Mexico won massive reforms and better living conditions for themselves. Two legendary figures, Pancho Villa and Emiliano Zapata, rose out of the conflict. Both would be assassinated but their names and legacy would live on into modern times as heroes of the common man and symbols of freedom, not only in Mexico but also around the world.

Pancho Villa's raid across the border into New Mexico to resupply military supplies made him a wanted man in the US and sent General John Pershing rushing into Mexico to capture him. Pershing and his troops spent a year chasing Villa through the mountains but never captured him. Pershing returned to the US to lead American troops in World War I.

Pancho Villa’s raid across the border into New Mexico for military supplies made him a wanted man in the US and sent General John Pershing charging into Mexico on horseback in hot pursuit. Pershing and his troops spent a frustrating year chasing Villa through the mountains but never caught the illusive patriot/bandit. Pershing returned to the US to lead American troops in a more successful World War I effort.

Our bus passed by cornfields, crossed over a high bridge and stopped. It was apparently a Kodak moment. The bridge was famous for cutting a couple of hours off the journey to San Sebastian. The old road made its way tortuously in and out of the canyon. Once it had been a burro trail, used to bring salt up from Puerto Vallarta, which was known as Las Peñas at the time. The salt was used in the smelting process to help break silver and gold out of the rich ores in the region.

Photo of bridge over deep canyon on the road to San Sebastian, Mexico. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Our dutiful tourist picture of the bridge on the road to San Sebastian.

Peggy and I dutifully took photos of the bridge. More importantly, we took advantage of the available restrooms. We’d consumed lots of coffee waiting for the bus. The next stop was a tequila factory where we sampled the wares, checked out an agave plant, and bought a bottle of orange-flavored tequila that made vanilla ice cream taste like you had died and gone to Valhalla, or some other yummy place. I am ever so glad we didn’t discover how good it tasted until just before we left Mexico. Otherwise I would have consumed gallons of ice cream and been charged double for the airplane ride home.

The agave plant, shown here, is the source of tequila. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

Tequila distillery on the road to San Sebastian, Mexico. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Our host at the tequila distillery displays his wares. The first time I ever drank tequila I was a senior at UC Berkeley and the potent liquor came in a small barrel like the one above. I spent my night in a hallucinogenic haze. The next morning marked the beginning of the Free Speech Movement and the 60’s student revolution. Could there have been a correlation between the two? (grin)

Sampling tequila on the road to San Sebastian, Mexico. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

This time I was more cautious.

Mexican Independence Day Parade. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

We were in the midst of sampling when a Mexican Independence Day Parade passed. Check out the wooden rifle of the young boy.

The most interesting stop on our journey to San Sebastian was to visit Hacienda Jalisco, one of the old haciendas whose history was related to the silver mining. You can still see the smelters. The hacienda’s thick walls provided protection for storing the treasure of silver before it was sent onward. Burros carried it to Guadalajara, Mexico City, and finally Vera Cruz, where it was shipped out once a year to Spain, maybe. Getting to Spain assumed that pirates didn’t relieve the treasure ships of their glittery cargo in the Caribbean.

Hacienda Jalisco’s silver mining history came to an abrupt end with the Revolution of 1910 but another type of silver, the silver screen, awaited its future. Discovered and restored by the American expatriate Bud Acord in the 1960s, the hacienda was to become a favorite hangout of John Huston, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton during and after the filming of the Night of the Iguana. Today it happily continues to serve as a B&B. Brochures describe it as romantic. There is no electricity and rooms are lit by lantern at night. You might sleep in the same room where Burton and Taylor pursued their scandalous, extramarital affair.

Hacienda Jalisco near San Sebastian, Mexico. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

The Hacienda Jalisco as it looks today.

Adobe wall and tile roof at Hacienda Jalisco near San Sebastian, Mexico. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

I captured a bit of Old Mexico with this adobe wall and tile roof.

Part of the silver smelter at Hacienda Jalisco. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

Jawbone of a boar. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

While I found this jawbone of a boar interesting…

Peggy preferred to photograph flowers that adorn the Hacienda.

Peggy preferred to photograph flowers that adorned the Hacienda. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

Photo of Hacienda Jalisco cat by Curtis Mekemson.

We both liked Gato.

This antique bed with its wild pillow was rather interesting. Wonder if it dated to the days of Richard and Liz?

You could almost hear the springs of this antique bed squeak given its wild pillow. I wonder if the ghosts of Elizabeth and Richard ever stop by for a midnight tryst?

Our final stop before San Sebastian was at a coffee plantation that shared a building with a coffin maker.

Photo of parrot at San Sebastian coffee plantation by Curtis Mekemson.

Peggy and I admired this guy as we drank our coffee and contemplated our ultimate demise.

Our son Tony made it to San Sebastian before we did. He bought a sailboat while living in San Diego, sailed it to Puerto Vallarta with his girlfriend Cammie (and our nephew Jay), took the bus up to San Sebastian (without Jay), went on a horseback ride to a remote waterfall, and asked Cammie to marry him. You can’t get much more romantic! We were eager to see the town.

Treasure seeking Spaniards settled San Sebastian in 1605. To put this into perspective, Jamestown, the first British settlement in North America, was founded in 1607. First Spain and then Mexico continued to pull silver from its surrounding mines up until the Revolutionary era of 1910-20. Once a bustling community of 20,000 importing luxury items from far away Europe, San Sebastian is now a quiet community of 600 surviving off of agriculture and a small tourist trade. Peggy and I liked it.

An attractive bandstand dominates the central plaza (Revolution Square) and provides views of the surrounding town and countryside. We had just missed the Independence Day celebration so Peggy and I had a pleasant lunch, walked through the town, visited the impressive Church of Saint Sebastian, and stopped to watch a local craftsperson weave a basket so quickly we could barely see her hands move. I could happily spend a week, or several in the town and surrounding area.

San Sebastian Bandstand. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

An attractive bandstand dominates Revolution Plaza in San Sebastian. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

Looking up at the bandstand.

Dragons of San Sebastian. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Dragons, like this fellow, decorate the bandstand and plaza.

Views of the town, including this view of the Church Of San Sebastian were available from the bandstand. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

The Temple of Saint Sebastian in San Sebastian, Mexico. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

A black and white rendition of the church under cloudy skies.

Inside Temple of Saint Sebastian in San Sebastian, Mexico. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

An inside view of the church showing the altar. Saint Sebastian, who is normally depicted full of arrows, is pictured on the upper left. Sebastian is considered the patron saint of sports. Do you think this includes archery? (Bad Curt.)

San Sebastian Church dog. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

This was the only local we found in the church. He was lying in the central aisle when we entered the church and then walked out with us.

Walkway of building facing Revolution Square in San Sebastian, Mexico. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Later we saw the dog making his way along the walkway of one of the buildings facing the plaza.

Basket weaver in San Sebastian, Mexico. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

The hands of this basket weaver flew so fast I could hardly follow what she was doing.

San Sebastian, Mexico side-street. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

One of the side-streets in San Sebastian that Peggy and I wandered along.

Altogether, San Sebastian is a gem of a community nestled among the Sierra Madre Mountains. If you make it to Puerto Vallarta, it is well worth the day trip to see it. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

NEXT BLOG: One Hundred Thousand Thank You’s for One Hundred Thousand Views.

Puerto Vallarta’s Ubiquitous Public Art… A Walk Along the Malecon

December 29, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 21 Comments

The Rock Eater (El Sulti Comepiedras) on the Malecon of Puerto Vallarta. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

One of the more amusing works along the Malecon is the 7.8 foot Rock Eater created by Jonas Gutierrez in 2006. The magician, made from bronze with a huge obsidian belly, dangles a rock in front of his mouth.

One way I judge a community is by the quality and extent of its public art– mainly because it shows pride in the community. Other obvious indicators include parks, libraries, sports venues, performance centers and museums. Each of these suggests a community has moved beyond mere survival mode and is striving to provide its residents with a quality life.

Schools, public transportation, affordable health care, sanitation, electricity, good government, and a fair legal system are essential but more basic.

Underlying all of this is a healthy economy. Puerto Vallarta’s is tourist-based. Huge cruise ships come in two or three days a week and disgorge thousands of passengers. The airport is always busy. Taxis dash about frantically. Hotels, restaurants and tours fill up, providing jobs and money to fuel the economy.

There are hundreds of small shops and individuals selling everything from trinkets to expensive art to visitors. Everyone in Puerto Vallarta, so it seems, is an entrepreneur– from the oily timeshare salesperson who buries you under a flood of words to the little girl who shyly offers you Chiclets.

Puerto Vallarta also has a thriving art community. It is easy to spend a day wandering in and out of galleries. At some point, the community decided that supporting public art projects would benefit both locals and visitors. Today, major works are found throughout Puerto Vallarta.

Nowhere are these art works more visible and accessible than on the Malecon, Vallarta’s beautiful walkway that separates the main part of the community from Banderas Bay. A short 30-45 minute stroll along the esplanade provides an introduction to some 20 works that invite you to admire and, in some instances, climb or sit on the art.

Rock Eater sculpture in Puerto Vallarta by Jonas Gutierrez. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

A side view of the Rock Eater.

Photo of Puerto Vallarta Millennia sculpture by Curtis Mekemson.

Millennia was created by Mathis Lidice in 2001 to celebrate the new millennium and is packed full of symbolism relating to the passage of time.

Photograph of Puerto Vallarta's Millennia Statue by Curtis Mekemson.

The top figure on the Millennia sculpture is a woman with a dove, symbolizing a hope for world peace. I find it humorous that giant Frigate Birds often consider the woman and dove a convenient roost.

If searching for whimsical art is your thing, you will find the Rotunda del Mar by Alejandro Colunga a real treat. This series of surreal creatures was created in 1997 and, according to its sculpture, they were “made so they could be used and abused.” Our grandkids Ethan and Cody took full advantage of the offer.

Photo of Rotunda del Mar sculpture in Puerto Vallarta by Curtis Mekemson.

Peggy provides perspective on one of the creatures created by Colunga.

Photo of Rotunda del Mar in Puerto Vallarta by Curtis Mekemson.

Another perspective.

Rotunda del Mar sculpture in Puerto Vallarta. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Imagine blowing this nose… These chairs were quite comfortable.

And how about this chair. It was made to accommodate either one very large person, or... (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

And how about this chai? It was made to accommodate either one very large person, or… (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

…three smaller people including our grandkids Ethan and Cody and Our daughter, Natasha. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

Sculpture by Alejandro Colunga in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Not sure what this creature is but I am sure it meets the definition of whimsical.

Rotunda sculpture of an octopus in Puerto Vallarta. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

I’ll conclude Colunga’s work with the octopus.

Sculpture in Puerto Vallarta by Sergio Bustamante in 1990. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

How about this face and what is she yelling at? It is part of a sculpture by Sergio Bustamante in 1990.

Sculpture in Puerta Vallarta by Sergio Bustamante. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

As for the subject of her yelling, it’s her two children climbing up the ladder. According to the artist, the kids are searching for knowledge.

Photo of Triton Nereida sculpture in Puerto Vallarta by Curtis Mekemson.

Leave it to the Italian/Mexican artist Carlos Esprino to introduce Roman/Greek mythology to Puerto Vallarta. In this sculpture, the merman Triton, son of Neptune, courts the illusive sea-nymph Nereida. Triton’ s trident was missing for a while. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

A closeup of Triton. You can see the love in his eyes. Or is that lust?

Seahorse sculpture in Puerto Vallarta. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

This iconic sculpture of a boy riding a seahorse by Rafael Zammaripa is frequently used in photos representing Puerto Vallarta.

Photo of Puerto Vallarta sculpture Nostalgia by Ramiz Barquet. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

These two lovers come with a story. It begins with the artist, Ramiz Barquet, falling in love with Nellie Galvan Duque as a young man. The two-part company and raise separate families only to be reunited many years later. A romantic walk the two took along the Malecon is the subject of this sculpture titled Nostalgia.

Sculpture of Vallarta Dancers by Jim Demitro. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

This graceful rendition of the Mexican Hat Dance by the American artist Jim Demetro was inspired by a visit he made to Puerto Vallarta where he saw it being performed on the Malecon.

Dancing Dolphins sculpture in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

These dancing dolphins were also created by an American artist, James “Bud” Bottoms and were donated to Puerto Vallarta by her sister city, Santa Barbara, California.

This Unicorn by Anibal Riebeling supposedly brings people good luck. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

And what’s an ocean without sea urchins? These were created by Blu– one of those guys with a single name. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

The last photo of the day is a sculpture of Pancho Villa, the Mexican Revolutionary. In my next blog Peggy and I visit the small mountain community of San Sebastian and learn about the 1911 Revolution from our guide.

Peyote, Shamanistic Vision and Art… The Huichol Indians of Mexico

December 19, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 20 Comments

Huichol work of art representing the journey to gather Peyote. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Peggy and I bought this Huichol yarn art painting several years ago. Yarn is pressed into beeswax to make the painting. This piece represents the Huichol’s annual journey to the sacred mountain of Wirikuta to gather peyote, which is central to their religion.

My fascination with indigenous art was piqued again on our recent trip to Mexico. The Huichol Indians, one of the last tribes in North America that has preserved pre-Columbian cultural traditions, are noted for their brightly colored bead and yarn art.

You can’t miss their work as you stroll down the streets and through the markets of Puerto Vallarta. What most casual visitors don’t realize, however, is that the art incorporates shamanistic visions inspired by peyote. Each piece provides an insight into the religion and mythology of the Huichol.

For example, the round buttons in the center of the painting above represent peyote. Just to the left of the peyote is the plant solandra, also with hallucinogenic qualities. The deer serve as intermediaries with the gods and the eagle serves as a messenger. Below the deer on the right is maize. To the left of the maize is what I believe is a prayer arrow with eagle feathers attached and to the left of that another arrow that has been shot into the base of a peyote plant. The wiggly lines represent communication that is taking place– between everything.

The Huichol, as they are known in Spanish, or the Wixaritari, as they call themselves, live in the Sierra Madre Occidental Range of Mexico. Each year, representatives of the tribe make a journey of several hundred miles to the sacred mountain of Wirikuta in central Mexico where they gather peyote.

Peyote is a small cactus with psychoactive alkaloids, particularly mescaline, which can create hallucinogenic reactions similar to those created by LSD. (If you’ve been around for a while, you will immediately think of Timothy Leary and the 60s.) Effects include alterations in the thinking processes, sense of time, and self-awareness. Colors are said to appear brilliant and intense. Synesthesia, where senses interact, may also occur. An example of the latter is seeing colors when listening to music.

Peyote photo taken by Curtis Mekemson in Mexico.

The peyote plant is a small, spineless cactus that contains mescaline, a hallucinogenic drug.

Huichol Shamans use the peyote to enter a trance where they communicate with the gods of the Huichol people. The shamans then make small yarn paintings known as Nierikas that represent the visions they experienced. The paintings are left as offerings to the gods in caves, temples and streams.

The Nierikas serve as the foundation for the Huichol art found in Puerto Vallarta, Guadalajara, and other urban locations. We have bought several pieces of the art, as has our daughter, Tasha. Our favorite Huichol artist for small bead art, Ernesto, maintains a table along the Rio Cuale. This year he took time to let our grandson, Cody, press some beads into a piece he was working on.

Ernesto shows lets our grandson Cody press beads onto a gourd covered with beeswax. (Photo by Ethan's mom, Natasha.)

Ernesto shows our grandson Cody how to press beads onto a gourd covered with beeswax. (Photo by Ethan’s mom, Natasha.)

Huichol woman works on a bead art sculpture in Mexico. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

In this photo, a Huichol woman works on another bead art sculpture.

Beaded Huichol art. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Beaded Huichol art can range in size from these small pieces created by Ernesto to much larger sculptures such as the deer shown below. Beaded art, like the yarn art, includes symbols of the Huichol Indians’ religion. The salamander, with peyote buttons marching down its back, helps bring rain.

I’ll conclude today’s blog with several examples of Huichol yarn art which demonstrate the vibrant colors and spiritual figures seen by shamans while in trance.

Huichol art representing shamanistic visions. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Deer person in center represents a shaman.

NEXT BLOG: I hope you are enjoying this journey into Mexico. I will be taking a break from blogging over the next couple of weeks to celebrate the season. Peggy and I would like to wish each of you Happy Holidays. –Curtis

“Oh my, what a big dewlap you have.” The Iguanas of Puerto Vallarta

December 14, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 22 Comments

Our grandsons Ethan and Cody were fascinated by the iguanas we found in Puerto Vallarta. The 8-year-old Ethan took this photo as and iguana checked him out. (Photo by Ethan Cox.)

Our grandsons Ethan and Cody were fascinated by the iguanas we found in Puerto Vallarta. The 8-year-old Ethan took this photo as an iguana checked him out. (Photo by Ethan Cox.)

The iguana I named Big Orange was staring up at us with a curious eye. He had come down out of his tree and shuffled over to where we were having lunch on a patio above the Rio Cuale. My eight-year-old grandson, Ethan, was scratching the wall to attract his attention. The iguana and the boy seemed equally interested in each other.

Iguana in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Another shot of the curious iguana. I named him Big Orange because of his color.

These large lizards can grow to be over 5 feet long. If their tastes tended toward meat, they might be worrisome, especially given their fearsome appearance. But iguanas are vegetarians and prefer to avoid conflict. Still, you wouldn’t want to irritate one; their lightning fast spiky tails and sharp little vegetarian teeth can do considerable damage.

I, for one, would hesitate to get in an argument with the iguana I named Big Orange with his spiky tail, long claws and his tiny, but sharp teeth.

They also have a third eye, located on top of their heads. As eyes go, it is rather primitive. Cells sensitive to light and dark can warn an iguana when something is blocking the sun, such a hawk hovering over its head. One way of escape is to fall out of the tree. If there is a river underneath, you might call it a dive. They are good swimmers and use their powerful tails for locomotion.

Parietal eye of iguana. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

The small oval on top of the iguana’s head serves as his third eye and is sensitive to light and dark. This photo also shows Big Orange’s leaf-eating teeth.

If a convenient river isn’t present, they land on the ground with a loud plop. Peggy witnessed one such fall. It was a little close for comfort. She was living in Panama at the time with her first husband. Our daughter Tasha, Ethan and Cody’s mom, was splashing around in a baby wading pool in the shade of a palm, when one of the big guys fell out of the tree and crash landed next to the pool.

“The iguana landed flat and seemed stunned. Then he stood up on his legs, shook his head, and wandered off.” Apparently iguanas can fall for up to 50 feet and survive. Whether baby Tasha could survive an iguana falling 50 feet and landing on top of her was another issue. Peggy moved the pool.

Iguana on roof in Puerto Vallarta. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Iguanas are arboreal (live in trees). A convenient roof will do in a pitch, however.

One of the stranger aspects of iguana physiology is a rather large dewlap that hangs down from the chin. I am surprised Big Orange didn’t stumble over his. Male iguanas bob their head and shake their dewlap when trying to impress a lady iguana. They also do the same thing to scare off the male competition. It must get confusing at times.

Large dewlap on Puerto Vallarta iguana. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Check out the large dewlap on this iguana. The loose skin hanging down from his chin does double duty, both attracting females and scaring away males. This guy was bobbing his head and shaking his dewlap at a lady iguana.

Human-iguana interaction goes in two very different directions. One, iguanas are used as pets. Their normally benign disposition and bizarre looks makes them quite popular. The downside here is that they require an unusual diet that pet owners frequently fail to provide. Two, they have served as a source of food in South America for over 7000 years. A common name is gallina de palo, which translates chicken of the tree. And yes, you guessed right. They supposedly taste like chicken.

I’ve never eaten an iguana but I did eat a rattlesnake once that tasted like chicken. Eating it, however, was like chewing a rubber band.

In addition to the iguanas that hang out in the middle of Puerto Vallarta on the Rio Cuale, we had a family in our back yard. The challenge each morning was to try to find where these arboreal lizards were hiding out in the trees. Later in the day they would come down and graze on our grass. Clover was in high demand.

A Mexican Green Iguana. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

“Come quick, Curt,” Peggy urged. A Green Iguana had come down from its tree and was grazing on the grass in our yard.

Green Iguana in Puerto Vallarta Mexico. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

The grass-eating iguana ignored me for the most part, until I tried to sneak up on her for a photo. I got the eye. It was pretty much the same look Peggy gives me when I am misbehaving.

Baby iguana in Puerto Vallarta. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

While I was sneaking up on the Green Iguana, this youngster came scurrying out next to our pool.

Young iguana grazing on grass in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Having satisfied itself that I was not dangerous, the young iguana returned to grazing on our grass. He is about to chomp down on a tender clover leaf.

NEXT BLOG: The peyote influenced art of the Huichol Indians.

What a Wonderful Bird Is the Pelican… A Puerto Vallarta Feeding Frenzy

December 11, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 17 Comments

Pelican hist water upside down in Puerto Vallarta. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

A Brown Pelican executes an amazing upside down dive to catch fish in Puerto Vallarta as three other pelicans join in the feeding frenzy.

“What a wonderful bird is the pelican, whose bill will hold more than his belican.” Dixon Merritt

I am enamored with pelicans. These large, gregarious birds that appear to have been created by a committee, skim over the ocean in graceful lines, fly in V formations to distant locations, and crash into the ocean with abandon to catch fish. Most of my pelican viewing has taken place on the coast of California and Oregon but I have also enjoyed their antics in Florida and the Mediterranean.

California Brown Pelican posed for flight. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

A Brown Pelican stands on its toes and prepares for flight in California. I called this photo flight-line.

California Brown Pelicans in flight. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Shortly afterwards, I caught this photo of the pelicans, along with seagulls in flight.

Petra the pelican of Mykonos. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

We found this Great White Pelican named Petros holding court on the Greek Island of Mykonos last year on our trip through the Mediterranean.

Petros the Pelican of Mykonos gives me the eye. “You wouldn’t happen to have a fish would you?”

Over the past three weeks I have been enjoying pelicans in Mexico. Peggy and I were particularly lucky to find a large flock of them involved in a feeding frenzy right next to Puerto Vallarta’s boardwalk, the Malecon. I’ve often watched pelicans make their unique dives from a distance; this was up close and personal– as I hope our photos demonstrate. I was also able to videotape them and captured 15 plus dives in a few seconds. The action was wild!

Pelican drains water from bill in Puerto Vallarta. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

One pelican seems to float in open-billed-amazement as two other pelicans crash into the ocean. Actually pelicans have to drain the water out of their mouths before swallowing their catch, which is what this fellow is doing.

Pelican shows throat pouch in Puerto Vallarta. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Check out the size of the Brown Pelican throat pouch here.

Pelicans prepare to dive in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico.

Hovering in flight, pelicans prepare to dive. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.) The terns, BTW, are hoping to participate in the feast and will happily steal fish from the pelicans.

Brown Pelican in Puerto Vallarta hovers above the water in search of fish. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Preparing for a high dive…

Brown Pelican takes flight off of Banderas Bay in Puerto Vallarta. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

Brown Pelican takes off from water.

Brown Pelican appears to walk on water in Puerto Vallarta.

And this guy appears to be walking on water. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

Brown Pelican dives toward the water of Banderas Bay in Puerto Vallarta.

A Brown Pelican plunges toward the water. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.) Note the pouch filled with water on the lower right.

Pelican diving for fish in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico.

Plunging into the water. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

Brown Pelicans demonstrate different aspects of fishing in Banderas Bay, Puerto Vallarta. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

A small portion of the flock, some 17 pelicans, demonstrate various aspects of fishing.

Pelican feeding frenzy in Puerto Vallarta.

Hard to tell who is doing what, here. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.) Liked the graceful tern on the left.

Pelicans feeding in Banderas Bay, Puerto Vallarta Mexico.

Or here. But I really liked the wing action. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

Now it is time to put all of the action together in a brief video…

Pelican caught in sunset glow at Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. Photo by Curtis Mekemson.

A pelican flies toward its nest at the end of the day.

NEXT BLOG: Having featured the Brown Pelicans of Puerto Vallarta, I’ll move on to feature the Green Iguanas.

Watson Lake: A Forest of 70,000 Signs… North to Alaska

August 28, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 6 Comments

If you look closely, you just might find your hometown among the 70,000 signs of Watson Lake.

When you are driving north to Alaska and enter the Yukon Territory, the first major town you come across is Watson Lake. The community has a strange claim to fame: a forest of signs from 70,000 communities around the world. People travelling the road have been leaving them behind for 70 years; they represent towns, cities, businesses, individuals and organizations.

According to legend, it all started in 1942 when a homesick GI who was helping build the Alaska Highway put up a sign that pointed toward his home and listed the miles. Ever since people have continued the tradition of saying “I was here.”

Peggy and I, along with our friends Bob and Linda Bray, wandered through the sign forest looking for our hometowns (no luck). It was like entering a maze. The following photos provide some perspective on what it is like, but you truly have to be there to get the whole effect.

This close up provides an idea of how closely the signs are packed together and how far people have come to place them here. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

My friend Bob Bray, provides a perspective on how high the “trees” in the forest are. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

Watson Lake sign forest in Yukon Territory.

Just about anything can be turned into a sign, as this toilet seat demonstrates. Also note the skull. How about “Parking for Estonians Only.”

I wonder how many street signs from around the world have been ripped off to make their way to the Yukon Territory?

I wonder how many of these street and town signs from around the world were stolen before making their way to the Yukon Territory?

The Watson Lake Sign Forest also features equipment used in making the Alaska Highway. In this case, Peggy serves as my model. Later I will do a blog on the building of the Alaska Highway, which took place in 1942 under the threat of Japanese invasion.

Speaking of the Alaska Highway, it was also featured in the forest. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

Just outside of the sign forest, we stopped at the corner of 9th Street and the Alaska Highway. It was time to continue our journey.

The Watson Lake Sign Forest provided an interesting stop on our way north to Alaska. But it was time to hit the road. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

NEXT BLOG: In 1980 Mt. St. Helen, located in the state of Washington, blew its top and became one of the world’s most famous volcanoes. Peggy and I stopped by for a visit on our way home from Alaska. (I am presently at Burning Man and will return next week to begin the Burning Man 2013 series.)

The Beavers of Toad River… North to Alaska

July 22, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 7 Comments

The view out the back window of our van at Toad River. The beaver lodge is in the foreground.

By the time we reached Toad River in Northern British Columbia on the Alaska Highway, we were ready to call it a day. Peggy and I had stopped at the lodge on a previous trip for lunch. The restaurant claims to have the largest collection of baseball caps in the world. If you make the trip, be sure to stop by and look up at the 7,000 on the ceiling.

The lodge on the Toad River had an RV park and Internet. It turned out to be one of the best Internet connections we had on the Alaska Highway.

Some 7000 caps decorate the ceiling of the restaurant at Toad River Lodge.

Kodiak Coast Guard cap at Toad River Lodge.

Since we are on our way to visit our son Tony who flies helicopters for the Coast Guard in Kodiak, I took this photo.

The Toad River Lodge had this toad for sale.

As to how Toad River got its name, the residents claimed it was originally Towed River dating from the days when the Alaska Highway was being built in the 1940s and heavy equipment had to be ferried across the river. Wikipedia claims the name came from big toads living next to the water. Peggy and I heard large toads croaking that night. Maybe it was our imagination.

We backed into our campground and immediately discovered a beaver lodge was built in the pond directly behind our van. Closer inspection revealed busy beavers buzzing about. You’ve undoubtedly heard the comment, “busy as a beaver.” It means really busy and there is a reason for its use. Beavers work hard. There are trees to bite down, lodges and dams to be built, food to gather, territories to protect, and children to raise.

Families are important. Mom and dad mate for life and both parents take care of the kids. Teenagers hang around for a year or two and help babysit. Everyone chips in on dam and lodge building.

Pop very carefully marks the family property. A lot of work has gone into improvements. No trespassing signs consist of small piles of debris dredged up from underwater, deposited on land, and then marked by anal gland secretions. I watched a beaver perform this task when I was backpacking in the Wind River Mountains of Wyoming. He backed up to the pile, raised his tail, and let go. Invading beavers that cross over property lines are quickly run out of town. It can get nasty.

Beavers are known for modifying the landscape by building dams across small creeks and then building their homes of lodges in the lakes that are created. No other animal, with the exception of man, has such an impact on the environment. And beavers don’t have to file EIRs, obtain building permits, or worry about zoning laws. Lodges, or homes, consist of one or two rooms with underwater entrances.

Ducks, frogs, and trout love the riparian habitats created by beavers. Farmers are less pleased with their activities and frequently tear down the dams. New ones are promptly built overnight. We watched our busy beavers for an hour or so. They were mainly busy with stuffing their tummies. Have another bite of bark. Yum.

Beaver dam on Toad River in northern British Columbia.

Looking down on the beaver dam at Toad River. A beaver can be seen on the left center of the photo.

Looking up at the beaver dam across the pond at the beaver lodge. Still green leaves suggest that the dam is a work in progress.

Beaver lodge on the Toad River in British Columbia.

Another perspective on the beaver lodge.

Beaver eating on Toad River in northern BC

Beaver chomps down on limb. Check out the claws. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

The beaver stopped eating to look at me. Is he grinning?

Beaver eating on the Toad River in northern British Columbia.

This guy was working on his dinner. Note the chunk of bark in his mouth. He is holding it with his paw. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

Beaver swimming on Toad River in northern BC

I like this shot Peggy took because you can see the beaver’s body under the water. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

A final photo featuring a beaver, beaver lodge, and mountain. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

Next Blog: The sign forest of Watson Lake.

The Delicate Art of Chainsaw Wood Carving: Part 2… North to Alaska

July 19, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 15 Comments

Peggy, who had just been kayaking on Dragon Lake in Quesnel, BC, was immediately attracted to this dragon wood carving in Chetwynd. (Photograph by Peggy Mekemson)

On Monday I provided an introduction to the art of wood carving with a chainsaw in Hope, British Columbia. Today we will see what Chetwynd, BC has to offer. As I mentioned earlier, Chetwynd holds an annual contest in June that attracts wood carvers from around the world. We quickly found that the number and variety of carvings was even greater than we had found in Hope. I was amazed at what could be accomplished in 36 hours. it made me think about the months and even years, sculptures spend working on a block of marble.

I was more entranced by this scary pumpkin scarecrow.

A close up of the head. How would you like to meet up with this guy on a dark night?

The complete sculpture. Like Scarecrow in Oz, he had straw stuffing trying to escape.

A close up of the head on Peggy’s dragon. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

Was this crusty gold miner saying “Don’t take my photo”?

A close up of the miner’s face in Chetwynd, BC.

I found the perspective on this bear totem pole interesting.

Deer totem pole.

An eagle lands to feed its chick. (Photograph by Peggy Mekemson)

A bear tries to raid an eagle’s nest. The eagle objects.

The Thinker? (Photograph by Peggy Mekemson)

Another perspective. This ram had quite a set of horns.

A Samurai warrior.

A carved relief on the side of the Chetwynd, BC Visitor Center of St. George slaying the dragon.

It seems appropriate to end this blog on Chetwynd, BC chainsaw wood carving with a moose.

Another photo of the moose.

Next Blog: The busy beavers of the Toad River.

When Your Campground Goes to the Dogs… North to Alaska

July 17, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 12 Comments

Peggy decided to go kayaking on beautiful Dragon Lake near Quesnel BC for her birthday.

Peggy decided to go kayaking on beautiful Dragon Lake near Quesnel BC to celebrate her birthday.

It was Peggy’s birthday. We picked out a nice campground near Quesnel, BC and declared a layover day. I am expected to celebrate the day appropriately. When we first got married Peggy told me that forgetting her birthday was grounds for divorce. Apparently her first husband missed one…

I’d been careful when leaving home to pack candles, animals, and a hanging birthday sign. “What’s with the animals?” you ask. Peggy’s family has a tradition. Over the years they have gathered dozens of miniature plastic and metal animals. Several of them are placed on the birthday cake. The person having the birthday is then expected to make the sound each animal makes. Like what sound does a hippopotamus make? I’ve been known to leave town on my birthday.

I gathered cards, gifts and a birthday pie along the way. Our friends Bob and Linda joined us and I explained the animals. Peggy then made the necessary growls, grunts, coughs, chest pounds, etc. and had a good time. It appears I am married for another year.

What we didn’t realize was that our campground was about to go to the dogs. Robert’s Roost Campground was hosting dog agility trials. Our campground filled up with dogs of all breeds, shapes and sizes. We went over to watch the action. The dogs are expected to run through tunnels, climb over bridges, weave in and out of a line of sticks, and leap over hurdles in a timed performance. Their owners run along beside shouting instructions. I think the owners work harder than the dogs.

A number of hurdles had been set up for the dogs. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

Hurdles are set at different heights to accommodate dog size.

This guy seemed to float over his hurdle. “Jump!” his owner urged. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

An even smaller dog weaves his way through the poles. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

Peggy captured the passion this dog was showing. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

Another shot that captures the intensity of the dogs participating in the agility trials. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

Stepping out on the bridge at the dog agility trials.

Another dog challenges the bridge. This time from the opposite direction.

Tunnel exit at dog agility trials. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

Bob and Linda's dog, Sister, stands in our shadows and watches the action. Sister decided that much more than "Good dog," would be required for her to leap over hurdles.

Bob and Linda’s dog, Sister, stands in our shadows and watches the action. She decided that much more than “Good dog,” would be required for her to leap over hurdles.

Next Blog: Busy as a beaver on Toad River

Wandering through Time and Place

Exploring the world with Curtis and Peggy Mekemson

Wandering The World