The Grand Canyon’s North Rim: Awesome without the People… National Park Series #5

North Rim of the Grand Canyon photos by Curt and Peggy Mekemson.
Wotan’s (Odin’s) Throne is one of five prominent landmarks visitors can see from Cape Royal on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. If you start on the front left and follow the ridge around to the high plateaus, you will arrive at the throne.

Today, Peggy and I are going to take you on a visit to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon as part of our National Park Series. We were there in 2022 but didn’t have time to do a post on it because we were headed off for a trip up the Rhine River.

I’m no stranger to the Grand Canyon. Even before I met Peggy, I had been to the South Rim several times, backpacked into the canyon four times, and even took a mule in on my first visit ever, an experience I didn’t need to repeat. The mule recognized that I was two pounds over the weight limit and kept trying to bite me and throw me off the trail with a several hundred foot drop. The worst insult, however, was to my butt. I couldn’t sit down for two days.

Peggy and I have also been there a number of times with experiences ranging from backpacking into the Canyon to being flown into a section outside the park in a helicopter by our son. We also did an 18 day private raft trip down the Colorado River through the Canyon. Once we took our kids, Tasha and Tony, as teenagers and camped out in the snow. Not surprisingly, I have done a number of posts on the Canyon, but never on the North Rim.

Some 5 million people visit the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. Maybe 10% make it to the North Rim. There are reasons for this, primarily accessibility. The South Rim is easier to get to, has extensive guest facilities, and is open year around. The North Rim, which sits at 8000 feet (2438 M), is closed from October 15 to May 15 because of snow. Plus it is a 212 mile, four hour plus drive from the South Rim— even though the North Rim is only 10 miles from the South Rim as the crow flies! That’s the challenge when you are faced with a ditch that averages 4000 feet deep stretching out for 277 miles.

An argument can be made that the South Rim provides better views of the Canyon, overall. So if you’ve never been, you might want to start there. On the other had, who could argue that the view of Wotan’s Throne featured at the top is lacking in grandeur?

The five prominent landmarks we will visit in this post at Cape Royal will include Wotan’s Throne, Vishnu Temple, Freya Castle, Wahalla Overlook, and Angel’s Window. As you have probably noticed, all of these names are based on mythological themes. We can thank Clarence Dutton for that, an early geologist who felt Vishnu Temple resembled an Eastern pagoda and began the tradition of providing such names to the other rock monuments throughout the Canyon. Vishnu is a major Hindu deity; Wotan is the supreme Germanic deity; Freya was a renowned Norse goddess; Walhalla (Valhalla) was the hall in Norse mythology where the souls of heroes slain in battle were received. And angels are, um, angels?

Let’s get started. All of the photos were taken by either Peggy or me.

Photos of Wotan's Throne taken by Curt and Peggy Mekemson.
Another perspective on Wotan’s Throne.
Vishnu's Temple photo taken by Curt and Peggy Mekemson
View of Vishnu’s Temple. Freya’s Castle is in front of the Temple.
Photo of Vishnu's Temple taken by Curt and Peggy Mekemson.
A close up of Vishnu’s Temple.
Photo of Vishnu's Temple taken by Curtis and Peggy Mekemson
Freya’s Castle and Vishnu’s Temple from the perspective of a tree.
Photo of Freya's Castle taken by Curt and Peggy Mekemson.
Close up of Freya’s Castle.
Photo of Angel's Window at the Grand Canyon taken by Curt and Peggy Mekemson.
Angel’s Window with people standing on top. You can actually see the Colorado River through the window.
Photo of Angel's Window in the Grand Canyon by Curt and Peggy Mekemson.
Photo of Peggy Mekemson on top of Angel's Window by Curtis Mekemson.
Peggy standing on top of Angel’s Window.
Peggy’s view down.
Photo of Walhalla Overlook on the Grand Canyon by Curt and Peggy Mekemson.
This is the view from the Walhalla Overlook. The Unkar Delta on the Colorado River can be seen in the far distance. An information sign at the overlook noted that “ancestral Puebloan farmers 1100 to 800 years ago made the journey from rim to river and back on a routine basis, spending summers farming on the rim and most of the rest of the year farming in the Canyon.”
A closer look. Note the rapids. We worked our way through them on our trip down the Colorado River in 2010. We also stopped to check out a storage granary the Puebloans had located high up on the cliffs.
Tom Lovering and I at the Puebloan granary. I had the permit for the 18 day trip, and Tom, an accomplished river runner, had led it. Tom, as you may recall, along with his friend Lita, joined us at Point Reyes National Seashore a few weeks ago. Tom colored his hair green for the trip. (Photo by Don Green.)
Peggy, climbing up to join us at the granary, looking quite adventuresome. That’s it for the day. Our next post will continue our visit to the North Rim.

34 thoughts on “The Grand Canyon’s North Rim: Awesome without the People… National Park Series #5

  1. That’s some ditch! I have wanted to view the canyon from the North Rim for a lot of years, and actually planned it on one occasion but it ended up being too early in the spring and the road opened late that year. So, I’ve never been there. Thanks for the perspective.

  2. A very young acquaintance signed up to be a cook at the lodge, but a “snowslide” took out the water supply and he ended up working at Bryce. A young friend, not quite as young in his early 50s, will be doing his 8th run from the South Rim to the North Rim in September. On our only visit, we arrived one May 15 and loved the lack of crowds. I have a photo of a memorable picnic on the canyon rim.

    However one gets there, I am sure you will agree, it is worth the trip.

    • Indeed it is Ray, however one gets there. As for the runners, one of the great runs for long distance types. The second is around six hours, I believe. I’ve backpacked across, but I did it on two different occasions going half way each time: Once from the South Rim and once from the North Rim.

      Nothing wrong with Bryce. Grin. I’ve probably mentioned to you that Peggy worked as a waitress one summer at Yellowstone during her college years.

  3. Wonderful pictures! I just read about several people dropping off over a ledge. I have not been here but my daughter has told me that it is difficult to tell people how large it is! I’m glad you revisited and did not ride a mule…my mother-in-law long ago rode a mule down and said it was the first time she felt kind of uneasy…maybe she had extra pounds! Ha!

    I have been in an entirely quiet zone for several weeks. Getting out with friends for coffee and meeting family for lunch. My granddaughter will go off to Gonzaga next week! Bittersweet times. Happy travels!

    • Many of them from taking selfies, Wendy. It’s dumb, to say the least.

      It’s not hard to feel uneasy, Wendy. The trails are narrow and the drop off tremendous. The wranglers assure the riders that the mules aren’t going to do anything to endanger their lives. And I am sure they are right, still…

      Your granddaughter is off for a great adventure and a good education, Wendy!

  4. I’ve only seen the Grand Canyon once, back in ’77. Did a day hike down and back up again that about killed me. (Probably would, these days.) I did manage to get to the north side though, on another day. Pretty high country.

    The closest I’ve come to rafting it was back in 2000, when I did a Cataract Canyon float in Canyonlands Natl Park in Utah. Colorado and Green Rivers, or something like that. Probably not as spectacular as the main canyon, but still impressive.

    • I think my first time would have been 1968, Dave. That would have been the mule trip!
      Looking up at the canyon walls while floating down the river was a heck of a lot easier than hiking down.

  5. I’m sure I’ve mentioned before that I’ve never been to the Grand Canyon, but if I ever go, I’ll have these posts to search for tips and tricks of making it a good trip. The red soil in the last photo particularly brings to me our Texas canyons, especially Caprock. Maybe this fall or winter I should start with a visit to those, to practice my canyon viewing.

    Every time I hear the phrase ‘Grand Canyon’ I remember the episode of News from Lake Wobegon when Keillor makes the point that those folks, in true midwestern style, would have called it a ‘pretty good canyon.’ I’d say!

  6. Thanks again for taking the photos I did not take!

    We made it to the North Rim only once. We drive by the entrances to the North Rim when we return to Alberta each spring, but it is never open yet!

    A few times we have visited the south rim when it is snowing. I always feel sorry for tourists who may only get that one chance to see the Canyon, but don’t get to see it because of the weather!

    • Agreed on the snow frustrating the tourists. Actually, we lucked out. It was 2004 and the 75th Anniversary of the Canyon. Nancy Reagan was coming for the event and all of the hotels and lodges were full. It was a big snowstorm and Reagan, plus many others, had to cancel. We moved into the grand El Tovar hotel and out of our tent!

      • That is quite the leap from tent to El Tovar! We stayed there a few years ago. It was after Covid but business was not back to normal – we were able to book a room just weeks before we wanted it. It was horribly expensive, but a once in a lifetime treat! Breakfast at the hotel and a quiet morning walk along the rim – awesome!

      • It was a treat. One we appreciated. I’d stayed at El Tovar before. The elegant old hotels at National Parks found in the US and Canada are classical. I’ve also stayed at one of the lodges on the rim with a view overlooking the canyon. Not bad either. 🙂

  7. Impressive you’ve helicoptered in and the amount of times you’ve gone Curt. I only went to the south rim once and don’t think I ever need to go down on a mule again. Haha.. that will teach you not to have 2 extra lbs.. lol
    What amazing photos and love Angel’s window!
    You two are inspirational!!!!! 💕👏💕

    • Helicoptering in with Tony was really special, Cindy. He was blasting out the Star Wars theme as he dropped us into the canyon!
      The mule more than got even, nasty beast. 🫏
      Thanks on the photos!

      • How fun is that!~Sounds like a blast. I was in a helicopter once with Wilsey Bennett’s assistant in S.F. which was fun and once in Hawaii on the big island seeing waterfalls barfing and haven’t had the desire to go back. Oh those pesky things.. Youi’re absolutely welcome!!🙏🏼

    • Thanks, Alison. ‘Iconic’ works. 😁 Close to 5 million people visit the Canyon each year. Assuming they average at least 20 photos each, that’s one hundred million photos annually! Not surprising that images of the Canyon are burned into our minds, not to mention all of the media!

  8. Wonderful photos, Curt, of an amazing place. I remember standing in front of those views and wondering how the people in the “westward ho” wagon trains felt when the rolled up to the edge. “Uh oh.” My favorite pic is the one of Peggy looking up and smiling. What a great adventure you two are enjoying!

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