It was once a dump, now it is one of the world’s most famous glass beaches. Located next to Fort Bragg, it was like a gold mine to those who collected these fragments from past bottles and other types of glass.
I first learned about people’s passion for collecting sea glass from our daughter-in-law, Cammie. Our son Tony was stationed on Kodiak Island as a helicopter pilot for the Coast Guard and Cammie had taken up producing sea glass jewelry to sell. Peggy and I were invited to join a family outing to collect sea glass on a local beach when we were visiting. It was like going on a treasure hunt. The glass had once hosted a variety of alcoholic drinks in a local bar that overlooked the Pacific Ocean. Then the 1964 Great Alaskan Earthquake struck. It was over six times as powerful as the 1906 San Francisco earthquake. The devastation caused by the shockwaves and tsunami was massive— and it included the Kodiak bar, washing it into the ocean. Ever since, the Pacific Ocean has been turning the liquor, wine, and beer bottles into sea glass.
A USGS photo of the waterfront of Kodiak after the 1964 Alaska earthquake.Cammie turned the sea glass into attractive jewelry that she marketed on Facebook and in local shops.The combination of rocks, shells and glass reworked by the ocean and wet down by the retreating tide was quite photogenic. Cammie told us that the colored glass was less common and worth more than the clear glass— the more rare, the more valuable.This rock, with what I think are quartz intrusions, also demanded a photo. It was taken above the tide line and illustrates how important the water was in bringing out the color of the glass rocks and shells.
The story behind the glass beach at Fort Bragg isn’t nearly as dramatic as the beach in Kodiak. The beach was the site of the community’s official dump until 1967. The attitude up until then in Fort Bragg and numerous other coastal towns had been why worry about burying your garbage when the ocean will wash it out to sea. Growing awareness about the potential harm from the practice by the community plus pressure from the California Water Resources Board led to closing the dump in 1967. Degradable garbage degraded, non-degradable garbage such as automobiles and refrigerators was hauled away, and the glass, already on its way to becoming sea glass, was left to become more sea-glassy.
There were more things to see at Glass Beach in addition to the sea glass. For one, there was an army of ground squirrels.Mainly, they were busy chowing down on the buds of ice plant flowers.Peggy found one sunbathing on a whale sculpture, however. I think it said something about providing perspective. I think the local hawks had a different perspective. Lunch.We didn’t see any hawks, but we did see this raven parked on a “no parking” sign.This island was located off of Glass Beach. it is a part of the 20,000 offshore rocks and islands that make up the California Coastal Monument that stretches out over the 1100 mile California coast and provides valuable protection to birds and mammals.This harbor seal was nursing its baby on one of the rocks.This nondescript little building caught our attention. We stopped at an information sign to find out what it was. Turns out it was a dynamite bunker dating back to the early 1900s when the dynamite was used to blast a railroad tunnel. It was located far away from anything, just in case. The info sign also informed us that the men who used the dynamite to blow up things were known as powder monkeys. Apparently the nitroglycerin in the dynamite led the powder monkeys to become a bit deranged— not a desirable quality for someone handling explosives, I’d think.The town of Mendocino is one of my all-time favorite coastal communities, for a number of reasons. For one, it has an incredible bookstore that comes complete with a bookstore cat. Another is its gorgeous headlands of which this arch is part.A close up.A scenic inlet lays off to the right of the arch.A female seal was lying on her back in the foreground, apparently enjoying herself while her baby hovered near by.The inlet on the left featuring the island. And a rock.And on the right, the mainland. Same rock.Peggy noted that the rock came with its own sea cave/budding arch.We followed the trail to the right of the arch where the waves were pounding in.And crashing ashore.While we were admiring the wave action, a flock of over 20 or so California brown pelicans flew in from the left.Passed by us.And flew on up the coast.As we continued northward along the Headlands, we were greeted by more islands.One island was packed with nesting birds, cormorants and what looked like small penguins!A closer look, and TheSibley Guide to Birds told me they were Murres. Murres lay their eggs directly on the rocks. The fact that they are more rounded on one end and more pointed on the other means they will roll in circles if nudged instead of falling off of the rock! Isn’t nature grand.A final look at the island the cormorants and murres had chosen for their nests and we were on our way back to Fort Bragg and our campsite along the Noyo River. The Noyo will be our next and final post on the Fort Bragg/Medocino area.A short tour of the Noyo River by Captain Dan took us down to the Fort Bragg Marina where we found this, and many other sea lions.
37 thoughts on “A Famous Glass Beach and Rugged Headlands: Along Mendocino’s Magical Coast… The Pacific Coast Series #10”
This is one of my favorite places, too – so many gorgeous sights and always things to discover.
I do remember that earthquake – didn’t realize that was what caused so much lovely glass “rocks” to appear. Nice necklace!
Almost unending! We are taking three months. It could as well have been three years, or 30… and there would still be amazing things to see and explore.
Oh the sea glass! How lovely! I think I would possibly load my car down with some of that! And powder monkeys…what an interesting fact. Isn’t funny that just a little building holds so much history. The seals and especially the one nursing her baby. What a wonderful place in this world. Happy travels.
Isn’t it, Peggy. Both in terms of the beauty and the dump. As for the dump, different times, different values and awareness. Folks in the area were also involved in cutting down the redwoods as fast as they could.
There would have been several, I’m sure. But Fort Bragg strongly discourages taking the sea glass. My guess is the town was afraid it would all disappear. I don’t know whether it was a matter of scenic or tourist value. Maybe both.
Funny how something that was once considered garbage becomes ‘not garbage’ when someone decides it should be protected…
The old saying, you don’t miss it until its gone.
What a beautiful coastline, Curt. (And that sky makes it even lovelier!) I was intrigued by the origins of the sea glass in both Kodiak and Mendocino. One pretty outcome from two environmental disasters. And the wildlife is an extra bonus. I just told my husband that we need to head down there someday. Thanks for the great photos and tour.
Mendocino is truly special, D. But, then again, the whole North Pacific Coast is. When I lived in Northern California and then in Southern Oregon, I managed to escape to the coast several times a year.
Peggy and I have made it to Bandon, now. It’s another real jewel. The sea stacks are some of the most impressive along the coast and the town is a delight, very supportive of art.
Yep, the sea glass is an excellent example of when you are given lemons, make lemonade.
Thanks.
Bandon is great fun. See you at the Dunes! Happy Travels.
It’s off to Florence and the Dunes tomorrow!
Wow your captures are exquisite, Curt. I love the story and origins of the sea glass and that jewelry is so beautiful. I only find brown and green any more. Those Murres did look like penguins.. I had to d a double take and soooo many of them. I’m soooo close, I have to visit. It’s crazy it’s in our backyard so to speak. The pelicans, the seals, the color of the coastline etc all captured my heart. ❤️
Half Moon Bay is in your backyard! Can’t go wrong with that. 😁
I read yesterday that Murres pack themselves so tightly together that they only have six square inches to raise their family.
We saw a lot more yesterday. We are in Bandon, Oregon now. Have you ever been here? It’s a great little town with some of the most impressive sea stacks along the coast.
I LOVE HMB for sure.
That’s wild! I’m feeling a little freer now.. ha.
Oh wow, I’m heading to Ashland Oregon in 2 weeks to see our family friend in a 2 man Shakespeare play. I can’t wait. I’ve never been to Oregon ever.. I’m trying to get hubby and Narnia and Sienna to go to Bend or Crater lake and they say it’s too far. I’ll check this out and see if it’s closer.. Ideas? 🙏🏼
Bend is fairly far, Cindy, but Crater Lake is an easy day’s trip and a pretty drive. Be sure to drive around the lake if you go.
Ashland was about an hour away from where we lived in the Upper Applegate Valley. It’s a pretty drive. If you were to follow the Applegate River up to Applegate Lake, you would drive by where we lived, about a mile before the lake.
Ok, good to know we will avoid Bend. of that sounds awesome and I really appreciate your sharing this and being my tour guide. We’ll do exactly that. Want me to take a picture of your old house? If so leave the directions.. I’m sure they will have a field day with that.. lol. Your dragonfly will be featured on Monday 💗
Easy enough, grin, just put Applegate Lake into you GPS and you will drive by it with a long fence, nicer that most you will see along the road. We had five acres going up the mountain and co-owned property on the river. If you are looking for an adventure, the world’s only Bigfoot trap is at the Lake following an easy path up a creek. Thanks on the dragonfly! I thought it fit beautifully.
Oh that’s awesome.. It’s always fun to surprise the fam with what they think is crazy and we know otherwise. I just wish you and Peggy were there to meet and greet so I don’t get engulfed by Big Foot. I’m never sure what I might be getting into with you.. lol Thanks sooo much and you’re very welcome on the dragonfly. Thank you again and thank Peggy for me🌹🙏🏼💓
If you are going to see the Bigfoot trap, Cindy, Google it for specific directions and history.
I’ve never found one bit of sea glass on our Texas beaches. Complete shells are uncommon, too; they get tumbled and dropped about three ridges out from shore because of the shallow slope of the seabed. I’d not be surprised if that’s where any glass is, too.
Different types of beaches, that’s for sure, Linda. Peggy and I even find great differences here. One will feature agates, another shells, another fabulous drift wood, and another dunes and grasses, or maybe nothing except flat sandy beaches the go on for miles.
The sea glass is always so pretty. I remember as a kid that finding sea glass seemed magical, and I was really convinced of its value. Now finally I hear from you and Cammie that it actually IS valuable. Amazing. I laughed at your hawk perspective: Lunch. I’m sure it’s true!
After having lived in Northern California, I came to the same conclusion and I really love the town of Mendocino and the beautiful coastline there. It’s just a darling community.
Of course the value is added by wrapping it up in silver or gold. LOL
Mendocino is a jewel. We also find Pt, Reyes Station and Bandon to fit that description.
Now we are in Florence, another one of our favorite coastal hangouts. And it will soon be Tillamook. Big grin. Are you and Pedro still planning on visiting? We are arriving on June 11 and will be leaving June 18.
We were just talking about that this morning. We have the twins that weekend and we determined they would like a trip to the beach. So yes!! We are planning to come out! It will be so fun to see you ❤ Should we bring anything for you from Portland?
That’s great, Crystal. We are looking forward to our visit with you and Pedro, and to meeting the twins. Can’t think of anything right now. Will let you know if we do, Thanks.
Wandering through Time and Place 
This is one of my favorite places, too – so many gorgeous sights and always things to discover.
I do remember that earthquake – didn’t realize that was what caused so much lovely glass “rocks” to appear. Nice necklace!
Almost unending! We are taking three months. It could as well have been three years, or 30… and there would still be amazing things to see and explore.
Oh the sea glass! How lovely! I think I would possibly load my car down with some of that! And powder monkeys…what an interesting fact. Isn’t funny that just a little building holds so much history. The seals and especially the one nursing her baby. What a wonderful place in this world. Happy travels.
Lovin’ the pictures, Curt. Your posts are always fun.
The glass is gorgeous. Hard to imagine that the shore was the dump.
Isn’t it, Peggy. Both in terms of the beauty and the dump. As for the dump, different times, different values and awareness. Folks in the area were also involved in cutting down the redwoods as fast as they could.
Great photos. I was just there.
Thanks, Cindy. I suspect Mendocino would be your kind of place. It sure is ours. We are in Bandon, now. Another jewel.
Beautiful place! And I love the sea glass and pebbles. Cammie is so creative! The necklace is gorgeous!
Cammie did some great work. Now she, Tony and family have moved on to Florida. Thanks.
wonderful images!!
Thanks, Sylvia!
So how many pockets full of sea glass did you take home!?
There would have been several, I’m sure. But Fort Bragg strongly discourages taking the sea glass. My guess is the town was afraid it would all disappear. I don’t know whether it was a matter of scenic or tourist value. Maybe both.
Funny how something that was once considered garbage becomes ‘not garbage’ when someone decides it should be protected…
The old saying, you don’t miss it until its gone.
What a beautiful coastline, Curt. (And that sky makes it even lovelier!) I was intrigued by the origins of the sea glass in both Kodiak and Mendocino. One pretty outcome from two environmental disasters. And the wildlife is an extra bonus. I just told my husband that we need to head down there someday. Thanks for the great photos and tour.
Mendocino is truly special, D. But, then again, the whole North Pacific Coast is. When I lived in Northern California and then in Southern Oregon, I managed to escape to the coast several times a year.
Peggy and I have made it to Bandon, now. It’s another real jewel. The sea stacks are some of the most impressive along the coast and the town is a delight, very supportive of art.
Yep, the sea glass is an excellent example of when you are given lemons, make lemonade.
Thanks.
Bandon is great fun. See you at the Dunes! Happy Travels.
It’s off to Florence and the Dunes tomorrow!
Wow your captures are exquisite, Curt. I love the story and origins of the sea glass and that jewelry is so beautiful. I only find brown and green any more. Those Murres did look like penguins.. I had to d a double take and soooo many of them. I’m soooo close, I have to visit. It’s crazy it’s in our backyard so to speak. The pelicans, the seals, the color of the coastline etc all captured my heart. ❤️
Half Moon Bay is in your backyard! Can’t go wrong with that. 😁
I read yesterday that Murres pack themselves so tightly together that they only have six square inches to raise their family.
We saw a lot more yesterday. We are in Bandon, Oregon now. Have you ever been here? It’s a great little town with some of the most impressive sea stacks along the coast.
I LOVE HMB for sure.
That’s wild! I’m feeling a little freer now.. ha.
Oh wow, I’m heading to Ashland Oregon in 2 weeks to see our family friend in a 2 man Shakespeare play. I can’t wait. I’ve never been to Oregon ever.. I’m trying to get hubby and Narnia and Sienna to go to Bend or Crater lake and they say it’s too far. I’ll check this out and see if it’s closer.. Ideas? 🙏🏼
Bend is fairly far, Cindy, but Crater Lake is an easy day’s trip and a pretty drive. Be sure to drive around the lake if you go.
Ashland was about an hour away from where we lived in the Upper Applegate Valley. It’s a pretty drive. If you were to follow the Applegate River up to Applegate Lake, you would drive by where we lived, about a mile before the lake.
Ok, good to know we will avoid Bend. of that sounds awesome and I really appreciate your sharing this and being my tour guide. We’ll do exactly that. Want me to take a picture of your old house? If so leave the directions.. I’m sure they will have a field day with that.. lol. Your dragonfly will be featured on Monday 💗
Easy enough, grin, just put Applegate Lake into you GPS and you will drive by it with a long fence, nicer that most you will see along the road. We had five acres going up the mountain and co-owned property on the river. If you are looking for an adventure, the world’s only Bigfoot trap is at the Lake following an easy path up a creek. Thanks on the dragonfly! I thought it fit beautifully.
Oh that’s awesome.. It’s always fun to surprise the fam with what they think is crazy and we know otherwise. I just wish you and Peggy were there to meet and greet so I don’t get engulfed by Big Foot. I’m never sure what I might be getting into with you.. lol Thanks sooo much and you’re very welcome on the dragonfly. Thank you again and thank Peggy for me🌹🙏🏼💓
If you are going to see the Bigfoot trap, Cindy, Google it for specific directions and history.
Glad to keep you guessing. Grin.
It was one of Peggy’s favorite photos.
OMG.. not sure I’m brave enough 😂
Hi again, Cindy. Here’s a link to a blog I wrote about it: https://wandering-through-time-and-place.com/2014/05/11/theres-this-bigfoot-trap-near-our-house/
wholly molly, how did I miss this?????!!!!!!!🙀
I’ve never found one bit of sea glass on our Texas beaches. Complete shells are uncommon, too; they get tumbled and dropped about three ridges out from shore because of the shallow slope of the seabed. I’d not be surprised if that’s where any glass is, too.
Different types of beaches, that’s for sure, Linda. Peggy and I even find great differences here. One will feature agates, another shells, another fabulous drift wood, and another dunes and grasses, or maybe nothing except flat sandy beaches the go on for miles.
The sea glass is always so pretty. I remember as a kid that finding sea glass seemed magical, and I was really convinced of its value. Now finally I hear from you and Cammie that it actually IS valuable. Amazing. I laughed at your hawk perspective: Lunch. I’m sure it’s true!
After having lived in Northern California, I came to the same conclusion and I really love the town of Mendocino and the beautiful coastline there. It’s just a darling community.
Of course the value is added by wrapping it up in silver or gold. LOL
Mendocino is a jewel. We also find Pt, Reyes Station and Bandon to fit that description.
Now we are in Florence, another one of our favorite coastal hangouts. And it will soon be Tillamook. Big grin. Are you and Pedro still planning on visiting? We are arriving on June 11 and will be leaving June 18.
We were just talking about that this morning. We have the twins that weekend and we determined they would like a trip to the beach. So yes!! We are planning to come out! It will be so fun to see you ❤ Should we bring anything for you from Portland?
That’s great, Crystal. We are looking forward to our visit with you and Pedro, and to meeting the twins. Can’t think of anything right now. Will let you know if we do, Thanks.