Wandering through Time and Place

Exploring the world with Curtis and Peggy Mekemson
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  • Tag: Cotswold

    • Walking the Villages of The Cotswolds… by Peggy Mekemson

      Posted at 4:58 pm by Curt Mekemson
      Nov 15th
      One of my favorite thatched roof homes found while wandering streets away from the village centers.

      One of my favorite thatched roof homes found while wandering streets away from the village centers.

      Yes, the gardens were beautiful, and the tour allowed us to see a wonderful variety of them from one acre to 5000 acres. My favorite time, however, was wandering the villages in the Cotswolds. Here we had free time to enjoy a lunch and roam at will. The challenge: we only had two hours! Jane and I found the visitors’ centers, gathered maps, asked about recommended walking paths and highlights, and hit the road running— or at least walking fast.

      Of course it was not enough time to do justice to each village, but what I saw made me want to return. Following are the visual highlights and a few fun stories.

      Our trip started with Highclere Castle, AKA Downton Abbey, a major destination on our tour before we headed to the Cotswolds. Even more fun for me, though, was the visit to Bampton, which is the village featured in Downton Abbey for the weddings, the shopping and general villages scenes. I loved the story that it was chosen not only for its atmosphere but also for the lack of street markings and signs, which made it easier to represent the early 1900s when the story takes place. It was interesting to compare how the village and church look on the TV series with how it looks in reality. I liked the reality; Bampton is a lovely, quaint town.

      The Bampton chapel and cemetery was the site of the weddings featured in Downton Abbey.

      The Bampton chapel and cemetery was the site of the weddings featured in Downton Abbey.

      This tree overlooking the Bampton graves captured my attention.

      This tree overlooking the Bampton graves captured my attention.

      Taking a Bampton walk about.

      Taking a Bampton walk about.

      One has to admire the Cotswold stone hamlet.

      One has to admire the Cotswold stone hamlet with its gorgeous flowers.

      Villages visited were Malmesbury, Chipping Campden, Cirencester, Tewkesbury, Misarden, and Ledbury. Malmesbury, the oldest inhabited town in England, and Tewkesbury, a medieval village with one of the largest parish churches in the country, will be featured for their abbeys in my final blog on the Cotswolds.

      A village scene from Cirencester, known as the “Capital of the Cotswolds.” The term “cester” means Roman fort indicating the origin of the village.

      A village scene from Cirencester, known as the “Capital of the Cotswolds.”
      The term “cester” means Roman fort indicating the origin of the village.

      A scene captured during a walk about in Chipping Campden, a favorite village of mine, one to be revisited!

      A scene captured during a walk about in Chipping Campden, a favorite village of mine, one to be revisited!

      While in Chipping Campden, Jane and I noticed a children’s bookstore called A Festival of Books. Greeted by the owner, Emily Dunn, we asked about local children’s books (we both have grandmother duty, grin), and had a delightful surprise. Emily is the author of The Tale of the Cotswold Mice, a book written for Princess Charlotte and embraced by the royal family. Our luck continued! The illustrator and gold/silversmith, Aneata Boote, owns the shop next door. Not only did Aneata illustrate the book, but she also designed silver napkin rings (complete with the mice) to accompany the book. Naturally we bought a signed copy. As a retired elementary school principal, I highly recommend it for young children. Although the first printing sold out, it is being reprinted with a percentage of the profits going to a children’s art fund. Check out their website www.cotswoldmice.com

      The Tale of the Cotswold Mice along with two napkin rings were presented to Princess Charlotte after her birth.

      The Tale of the Cotswold Mice along with two napkin rings were presented to Princess Charlotte after her birth.

      The author was Emily Dunn, the owner of bookstore, A Festival of Books, located in Chipping Campden. The silversmith and illustrator was Aneata Boote who owned the shop next door. Both were welcoming and charming!

      The author was Emily Dunn, the owner of bookstore, A Festival of Books, located in Chipping Campden. The silversmith and illustrator was Aneata Boote who owned the shop next door. Both were welcoming and charming!

      While many of the homes and businesses were architectural eye candy, two features caught my eye over and over again: the famous honey-colored Cotswold stone and the thatched roof cottages. My sister had to drag me away from several of the structures in order to catch the bus on time. Just when I thought I had seen the best examples, I would walk another block and then— Wow!

      How could I resist this rooftop view with its chimneys.

      How could I resist this rooftop view with its fairytale chimneys.

      Then there were the markets. Once the centers of agriculture, wool, and silk spinning, the villages are making an economic come back with a refocus on farmers’ markets and crafts. I couldn’t resist the basket market.

      Basket market in Cirencester, a city founded by the Romans.

      Basket market in Cirencester, a city founded by the Romans.

      The market in Ledbury, a photo taken from the bus as we left town.

      The historical market in Ledbury, a photo taken from the bus as we left town.

      The historical market in Chipping Campden.

      The historical market in Chipping Campden.

      While exploring the village of Misarden (previous garden blog), we discovered a home being renovated. The three young men working on the house noticed our interest and rushed out to invite us inside to admire their work. Their enthusiasm and humor were catching. One, the future tenant, had grown up in the area, and was looking forward to returning home. His plumbing skills were being put to good use in the renovation. Having once remodeled a colonial house, I appreciated what the young men had accomplished and how much work they still had to do.

      These are the three men who welcomed us into the cottage they were renovating. They were such fun I promised them I would post their photo!

      These are the three men who welcomed us into the cottage they were renovating. They were such fun I promised them I would post their photo!

      After leaving the renovation house I came across this garden.It was a a good reminder to take the time to stop and look around, behind, beside, up, down…

      After leaving the renovation house I came across this tucked away garden.It was a good reminder to take the time to stop and look around, behind, beside, up, down…

      Ledbury, the home of Elizabeth Barrett Browning (memories of English-lit days), is an ancient borough with centuries old timber-framed buildings. As we wandered the town, we stopped outside a building described as a 16th Century Painted House. Curious, we stepped inside only to discover the guide was closing things down. When we insisted we would only take two minutes to see the famous room, she hesitated, took a deep breath, and then led us upstairs. Our two minutes turned into 20. Apparently, a couple was preparing the walls for new paint when they discovered curious painted patterns under the layers of old paint they had removed. What they discovered dated back over 600 years.

       I loved the winding streets in Ledbury with their surprising views, such as the church.

      I loved the winding streets in Ledbury with their surprising views, such as the church.

      Ledbury is known for its centuries old timber framed buildings. The clock tower made a picturesque addition.

      Ledbury is known for its centuries old timber-framed buildings. The clock tower made a picturesque addition.

      The 16th Century Painted House was tucked away in the narrow bend of the street.

      The 16th Century Painted House was tucked away in the narrow bend of the street. My sister Jane knocks at the door.

      Trying to capture the 600 year old painted walls was challenging but worth the try!

      Trying to capture the 600 year old painted walls was challenging but worth the try!

      I was captivated by what I saw in each village and would return, without hesitation, to continue my explorations. The history, beauty, care, friendly people, and, delicious food all make a visit worthwhile.

      This doorknocker found in Chipping Campden seemed a fitting end to this blog. It was hard to resist knocking on this door. I will be back to try it out!

      This doorknocker found in Chipping Campden seemed a fitting end to this blog. It was hard to resist knocking on this door. I will be back to try it out!

      Posted in Wandering The World | Tagged Bampton, Chipping Campden, Cirencester, Cotswold, Downton Abbey, Ledbury, Misarden, Peggy Mekemson, photography, Tewkesbury, The Tale of the Cotswold Mice, Villages of the Cotswolds
    • A Garden of Weeds— and More… in the Cotswolds by Peggy Mekemson

      Posted at 5:00 am by Curt Mekemson
      Nov 6th
      Caption

      Yes, Anne, the host AKA “Bad Tempered Gardener,” shared that there were gardens of weeds throughout her garden. Still beautiful…but I did have a massive allergy attack after wandering around. It was still worth the visit!

      Today, I wrap up my tour of English gardens with Cerney House, Overbury Court, Whitcombe House, Wyndcliffe Court Sculpture Gardens, Veddw House Gardens in Wales, and Hellens Manor. (I have two more blogs on the Abbeys and Villages of Cotswolds, however. And I may do one on the Tower of London.)

      Cerney House was described originally as a romantic, secret place. (It’s also known for its goat cheese.) Built in 1660, it was renovated in 1983 by Sir Michael and Lady Angus. It is still a work in progress with “a pleasantly un-manicured garden, happy plants…unrestrained.” We enjoyed pigs in the woods, Roman snails in the garden and delicious tea and cakes! Rather unique…

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      The residence had a unique look compared to our other experiences.

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      This was part of the garden in front of the house. How could I resist this rooster?

      Overbury House was rebuilt after a fire in 1738. Constructed of the golden, ashlar faced stone famous in the Cotswold, it is privately owned. The head gardener treated us to the tour of the three acre garden and the lush parkland surrounding the house. The owners were present so we were kept discretely away from the main house. The 3000 acres included 2 villages— yes, they own the villages also. This estate is surrounding by 3 rivers and is subject to flooding according to the gardener, perhaps the reason for the lush parkland and simplicity of design!

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      Overbury Estate

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      The head gardener shared that staff would often enjoy a swim here when work was completed. I like that thought!

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      This gives you a sense of the manicured grounds with a view of the estate chapel.

      Whitcombe House is literally next door to the Overbury House. It voluntarily participates in the National Garden Scheme, where revenues raised through entrance fees are donated to various charities. We were excited about its lovely one acre garden. We had finally found something we might hope to replicate. We were treated to homemade cakes and tea by the family, while grandchildren ran free with the dog . The personal touch was a delightful change from our previous experiences of estates…. manors….. courts….etc.

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      Our first view of Whitcombe House from the bus.

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      I love stone walls. I wanted to take this one home!

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      Part of the backyard garden, full of delightful surprises, all in one acre.

      Wyndcliffe Court Sculpture Gardens was not on our original agenda. It turned out to be one of my favorites. Described in the “arts and crafts” style, this estate hosted two sculpture shows during the year featuring hundreds of sculptures throughout the gardens. (There are never enough; I was one happy visitor!) The original gardens were completed in 1933. Eventually, the owner left his fortune to his gardener. Together they had created sculpted yew hedging, topiary birds and animals, and long grass bowling greens, a perfect venue for the present day sculpture displays.

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      Wyndcliffe Court

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      This bench awaited us as we entered the grounds. Jane and I could not resist. I wanted to bring it home!

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      Like this nymph one had to look closely to spot many a hidden delight.

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      From large metal dragonflies in the forest to these glass sculptures, the variety was amazing.

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      Just plain fun…..

      Veddw House Garden, in Wales, was truly unique in that it was designed and cared for by “The Bad Tempered Gardener” and her husband. Anne, our hostess, shared with us that she loved gardens but hated gardening! Despite her challenge, they have created what is described as “a modern romantic garden.” Using two acres for gardens and two acres as woodland, the quirky garden was dominated by incredible hedges and LOTS of wild flowers including flowering weeds— yup, I had a massive allergy attack and used up half of England’s supply of Kleenex.

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      Each view brought a smile, such creativity.

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      This was a favorite. What you do not see is the reflection pool, also mesmerizing.

      Hellens Manor was our last garden to be visited. More than a garden, Hellens was a historical monument to centuries of history including stories of Ann Boleyn, Mary Tudor, the Earl of Essex, ghosts, and more. The manor was granted to the Bolem Family in 1096, one of whom witnessed the signing of the Magna Carta. Our focus was on the house this time. We had a delightful tour guide who had many stories to tell, including one about surprising guests in a bedroom while leading a tour. The owners created a charitable trust, which runs the estate today. The curator is both American and English, not so unusual apparently based on our experience. The gardens are a work in progress, but did include animal sculptures, a yew labyrinth (easy solved!), and a walled knot garden.

      Hellens Manor

      Hellens Manor in the town of Much Marcle.

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      A favorite part of the garden near Hellens Manor.

      As you can imagine, there was so much more to see and describe with the gardens. This was just a taste of our experience, which was absolutely delightful and magical.

      Next Blog:

      On to the colorful towns in Cotswold were we were free to eat and walk and discover on our own! My kind of touring…

      Note: Peggy and I will be traveling in Mexico for the next couple of weeks. We should have Internet but if not we will be off line. –Curt

      Posted in Wandering The World | Tagged Cerney House, Cotswold, England, garden tour of the Cotswolds, Hellens Manor, Overbury Court, Peggy Mekemson, photography, Veddw, Whitcombe House, Wyndcliffe Court Sculpture Gardens
    • Bush Devil Ate Sam

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