The sun wasn’t yet up when we arrived in Budapest. The captain of our riverboat had urged the evening before that we get up early so we could see the city in the early morning light. It was a good suggestion. There will be several photos in our posts on Budapest that will reflect what we saw. Here, we are looking toward Buda Castle Hill. The twin towers of St. Anne’s Church are on the right. Looking up the hill to the left is the beautiful Matthias Church that we will visit in today’s post.Focusing in on Matthias Church a few minutes later, the sun was lighting the sky quickly. I thought the slightly fuzzy quality our cameras produced in the low light added to the beauty.Then my camera decided to focus on the light behind the church, leaving it with a dark outline. It wasn’t what I was trying to accomplish, but I liked the result. The striking Matthias Bell Tower and a number of other towers stand out.Matthias Church caught under blue skies in bright sunshine. While the style is Gothic, the brightly covered roof speaks to a late 19th Century makeover, as does the inside of the church. The green guy on his green horse is the much revered first king of Hungary, King Stephen. We took the photo from what is known as Fisherman’s Bastion, another prominent landmark of Budapest.The King with his saintly halo and double cross is blessing the church. The towers are part of Fisherman’s Bastion. There are seven in total, representing the the seven chieftains of the Hungarian tribes that crossed the Carpathian Mountains and entered the Carpathian Basin in 895 CE (Common Era).Born a pagan but baptized as a Christian, St. Stephen was coronated on Christmas Day in 1000 CE and immediately set out to Christianize Hungary. Thus, his Sainthood.
A true mark of a Catholic Saint during the Middle Ages, BTW, was that the faithful collected bits and pieces of you as relics to be worshipped. Praying over them could cure you of whatever, they thought. King Stephen donated his “naturally mummified” right hand to the cause when his tomb was opened in 1083 CE. I assume it was chopped off. He didn’t complain. It is one of Hungary’s most cherished relics. When the Ottoman Turks captured and occupied Budapest from 1541 to 1699, the hand was sent to Ragusa (Dubrovnik) for safe keeping where it was guarded by Dominican friars. They were reluctant to return it afterward. Lots of pilgrims generated revenue. They finally relented when Queen Maria Theresa promised to protect the city from a pending Russian invasion.Speaking of the invasion by the Ottomans, they actually took over Matthias Church and turned it into a mosque. I was wondering if the moon and star (upper center left), which are both symbols of Islam and are often found on top of mosques, commemorated their occupation? Also, of interest, is the raven seen in the upper right center…Legend has it that Matthias’ mother sent a raven to Prague with the ring urging her son to return home. King Matthias is another of Hungary’s loved rulers. He was said to travel around in disguise to get a feel for the life of his subjects, “doing justice to the poor, and shaming the powerful and arrogant.” He incorporated the raven into his coat of arms and put one on top of the church with a symbolic ring. He was known as the Raven King.The church really is beautiful…And impressive.A final view before heading inside.The warm brown and gold colors found on the main altar of Matthias Church are found throughout the church.I really liked the way Mary was designed to allow light from the stained glass windows to flow around her. This attention to detail was found throughout the church.Another example. Both unity and depth are achieved here. Also, do you see the lights hanging across the arch?Light was used throughout the church for emphasis.I liked this painting. It showed a stag doing what stags do— eat grass— while the ‘Lamb of God’ looks on.Several large paintings are incorporated into the church. This is Francis of Assisi encouraging the baby Jesus to walk to him.This mural depicting St./King Laszlo was even more richly painted than that of St. Francis. The bird headed people in the left corner seem rather strange.The King/Saint Laszlo with piercing, scary eyes was ensconced in an nook below the mural.My favorite: The pillars of the church!Outside the church we snapped a photo of the the Holy Trinity Statue that was built to protect the people of Buda from the Black Plagues that devastated Europe between 1691 and 1709, causing the death of up to 50% of Europe’s population. The Holy Trinity tops the column. Cherubs and angels are next, and various saints are on the bottom. Remember how we noted in Vienna that St. Sebastian was always depicted with arrows sticking out of him? Look to the left. They even sculpted the tree he was supposedly tied to.Here’s the Holy Trinity. The Holy Ghost hovers above as a dove with light emanating from it, God with his flowing beard is next, and Jesus is carrying his cross. A fat little cherub is on the lower right because fat little cherubs apparently like to hang around the powers that be. After our tour we were given some time to hike the walkway on Fisherman’s Bastion with its great views of Budapest.One of the views was of St. Anne’s Church with its Italian baroque tower that we had first seen from the river in today’s top photo.Another was of Hungary’s Parliament building which will be one of the sights featured in our next post.
That does it for now. We’ll be taking a couple of weeks off for Christmas and New Year’s but I will get a brief post up just before Christmas. Beyond that, see you in 2025. Have a great holiday!
Meet Naci. He’s one of several statues scattered around Old Town, Bratislava designed to give the city a new image following the dark days of Communist rule that ended in the mid-1990s. Naci was actually a real person who would dress up in elegant clothes and wander the streets of the city. He liked the ladies. He was known to pick out a woman at random, tip his hat, bow, give her flowers and sing her a song. Here, our sister-in-law, Frances, poses beneath his top hat.Here’s a statue the Communists left behind. Quite the contrast, huh. It says a lot about Communist Russia’s rule of the Eastern Bloc countries. And, traveling much further back in time, I decided to throw in this statue. Not because of the Madonna standing on a crescent moon, but because of what else she is standing on…That is one depressed dragon! Check out the eyes and ears. You can almost hear it whining: “Damn, skewered again. And all I wanted to do was give her an apple.”And then there was this guy, inviting visitors into a restaurant that featured sausages.We spent our time in Bratislava exploring the Old Town section. This is a view of the tower connected to the Old Town Hall built approximately in 1370.Views of the tower can be seen from many different locations in Old Town.Here, it peaks out from behind the Old Town Hall. Its top features the same striking green we saw on several buildings in Vienna.The historic old pharmacy building also featured a green top.St. Martin’s Cathedral, known as the site where 11 Hungarian Kings were crowned between 1563 to 1783, has a dramatic green and golden steeple.A closer view.The church backs up to the ancient city walls. It actually served as a part of the fortification.As might be expected, a statue of St. Martin is included in the church. At first I thought he was threatening to kill the guy on the ground. Instead he is cutting his coat up and offering half of it to a poor man he had found outside suffering in the cold with minimal clothes, a saintly act for sure.A number of attractive, classic buildings are found in the Old Town. This is the Primate’s Palace.These buildings grace Bratislava’s main square. The steeple of St. Martin’s Church can be seen in the background.A street view leading off of the square. Part of the Old Town Hall is on the left.And finally, even the Carlton Hotel was a class act. That does it for Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia. Next up, we continue down the Danube to Budapest, the Capital of Hungary.A view looking up a hill toward Matthias Church in Budapest.
The Bratislava Castle, overlooking Bratislava, has been a prominent landmark of the city since the 9th Century AD. Long before that, however, the hill was occupied by people stretching as far back as the Stone and Bronze Age. It marked a key crossroad location of the ancient world.
When we wrapped up our visit to Vienna, it was time to begin our journey down the Danube. Our transportation was waiting for us, the brand new riverboat, Amadeus. The boat looked great, but we had to walk through the mud left behind from the previous week’s flood to get to it. Our first destination was Bratislava, the Capital of the Slovak Republic, a mere 35 miles down the river.
Sunset on the Danube River near the city of BratislavaHere’s the Amadeus docked in Bratislava. We had a rear cabin on the opposite side of the boat. Large picture windows that could be opened or closed at the push of a button, provided great views of the river, passing towns, and scenery along the way. The round building on top of bridge is known as the UFO restaurant. You can see why.While time didn’t allow us to visit the castle, its prominent location provided ample opportunity to view it from both the city and the river.Bratislava Castle as seen from the Danube River.Michael’s Gate is another prominent city landmark. It dates back to medieval times and is one of the oldest buildings in the city.Its copper green roof adds to its elegance.The Archangel St. Michael slays a dragon on top of the tower. It’s hard to visit a medieval town without finding at least one depiction of a dragon slaying event. Saving virgins, children, and even sheep were some of the reasons. St. Michael, according to Revelations, even fought with the Devil, who had apparently taken the shape of a dragon. Whether they existed was apparently not an issue. While dangerous, it was a great way to earn Sainthood— much better than being tortured and having your head chopped off. And besides, how dangerous can a fantasy beast be?Another example was found in the Primatial Palace in Bratislava. Here, St. George slays a three headed dragon. He came on a town where people were being chosen by lot, tied up, and sacrificed to the dragon. The latest was the king’s daughter. So what’s a guy to do? George rode off to do battle. The story is well known but the Bratislava dragon had a couple of extra heads.Here is a closeup of the ferocious beast in its role as a fountain. The tip of St. George’s spear can be seen at the top. The dragon was one of many interesting/weird stone creatures Peggy and I found in the city.Another stone dragon. Biting its tail.Worn by time, this dragon displays its clawed feet and wings.Stone carved alligator, crocodile, or dragon?A scary bat?A long eared something. Probably a rabbit given its ears and hind feet. The wire is to prevent unwanted visits from birds.A bear climbing a tree?And finally a sleeping dog. I’m assuming these carvings are from medieval times given the wear on them. They represent both fantasy beasts like the dragon and bat as well as common animals of the time.Plus a horned fellow with pointed ears and a face to scare even the stout hearted. I’m thinking either the devil or a demon. This coat of arms featured rearing horses with a wild-looking tails.This coat of arms also featured interesting animals: Lions with two tails and their tongues sticking out. Note the fish as well.Lions also make great fountains.As do demons. That’s it for today. Next post: More on Bratislava including the manhole man…
I ended my last post on Vienna by jumping down a rabbit hole to learn more about this fantastic beast that hangs out on top of the Bitzinger Sausage Stand with his bottle of champaign. I’m not talking about an Alice in Wonderland hole; I’m talking about its modern equivalent: the internet. I discovered he is modeled after one of the world’s most famous hares. And no, it isn’t Bugs Bunny. Clue: Art. Raise your hand if you know. And it’s okay to brag in your comment.“Waiter, waiter!” Old Tom called. “There’s a hare in my soup.” Neither is it from one of the cards I create.It’s Albrecht Dürer’s 1505 water color of a young hare that is located at the nearby Albertina Museum. As for the champaign, think of it as product placement. My guess is that the French Moet and Chandon Champaign giant would pay a generous bucket of euros for the exposure. First, there are the thousands of tourists and locals who pass by daily. Even more impressive are the millions of people who probably see it in travel photos people take home. Who can resist a bunny? It’s marketing at its best. BTW, Moet puts out 28,000,000 bottles of champaign per year. You can buy a bottle for $51, or, if you prefer, $6,161.While we are on art, our guide for the day told us that locals call this the ‘Grapefruit Building.’ I wonder why? Artists call it the Secession Building. It was built in 1898 to represent a group of artists who broke away from Vienna’s established art institution to participate in a trend of modern art that was sweeping Europe at the time: Art Nouveau. The statement below translates to “To every age it’s art, to every art it’s freedom.”Turning to a little ‘Art Nouveau’ (or Cubism) on my own, I thought this building’s refection might qualify. There was a McD’s just below. It would have made an interesting addition.Peggy is a great fan of architecture. Vienna is full of classy buildings like this. I recall the guide told us that Beethoven lived here as the bus zipped by. It wouldn’t be surprising since he lived in more than 60 locations in Vienna during his 35 year stay in the city. Note the green building on the far end.Several buildings in Vienna had striking green tops. This one belonged to the Generali Insurance Company. I think the globe was meant to imply that the company is worldwide. Apparently it required at least two of Atlas to hold it up. Which brings me to Zeus and Minerva in Albertina Square.A man, a merman and some other creature share the heavy responsibility of holding up the statue of Zeus and Minerva. Minerva is Zeus’s wife (and sister). She had the difficult task of taming Zeus’s wandering ways.I felt sorry for the squished merman. But check out the muscles. Even Arnold Schwarzenegger might be jealous.A much more solemn memorial against war and fascism is also located on Albertina Square. This is one of several statues. After the annexation of Austria to the German Reich on March 12, 1938, Jews were forced to clean the streets of pro-Austrian and anti-Nazi slogans by working on their knees with brushes. The bronze sculpture recalls this humiliation that preceded the merciless persecution and murder of some 65,000 Jewish citizens in Austria during WW II.We had time to walk around in the historic area on our own. Here are a few things we noted. A number of exclusive and expensive shops…A boy squeezing the water out of a fish…This attractive church— The Reformed City Church of Vienna.And for those of you who enjoy finding and photographing unusual doors, we found one covered with cowhide that included a peep hole. I discovered it’s an exclusive night club open from 10 pm to 3 AM, a time when Peggy and I, with any luck at all, are sound asleep.Stadt Park was situated just across the street from our hotel. In fact, our room looked out on it. Given that much of the park is dedicated to Vienna’s great composers, it’s a fitting place to wrap up this post. Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, and Schubert were among the luminaries of classical music that called Vienna Home.Franz Schubert was among the composers who had statues scattered throughout the park.This properly weird scene of a scantily clad musician riding on a scantily clad sphinx was prominently located on the front of Schubert’s statue. I’m assuming that the woman with the lyre is a Greek or Roman goddess of music, possibly Minerva, who was goddess of lots of things.And last, but not least, Johann Strauss. We read that his statue is the most photographed statue in Vienna. Unfortunately most of it was covered in scaffolding as he got a makeover. We were lucky to capture this photo of him (through the boards) playing his violin. And that’s a wrap for Vienna.Next up, we hop on our riverboat and sail down the Danube to Bratislava, the Capital of Slovakia. This is one of Bratislava’s prominent landmarks, Michael’s Gate.
Here’s wishing you and your families a happy and peaceful Thanksgiving as we stop to remember that we do have things to be thankful for in today’s world. Curt and Peggy
(The turkey is from my collection of cards that I create for for family and friends.)
A German Duchess, Elisabeth (Sisi) Amalie Eugenie became the Empress of Austria at 16 in 1854 when she married the Habsburg Emperor Franz Joseph. He was supposed to marry her older sister. While Sisi loved Franz, she never did adjust to the limits placed on her as an empress. But, boy, could she grow hair! She’s a legend in Austria. (Painting in the Sisi Museum.)Sisi was considered one of the great beauties of Europe and thought of her hair as her greatest asset. It actually reached all the way to her feet when let down. Its care and maintenance required three hours per day. Sisi spent the time studying Greek and Hungarian, reading and writing. Every three weeks she had her hair washed with raw eggs and brandy. The process took a whole day, including drying. (Painting in the Sisi Museum.)The Sisi Museum is in the Hofburg Palace, the winter home of the Habsburgs. Peggy and I visited it as part of our tour of the historical center of Vienna. This was Sisi’s exercise room. She was as fanatical about exercise as she was her hair. Long workouts and multi-hour fast hikes were all part of her daily regimen. Her passion, however, was horseback riding. She was one of the premier horsewomen of her era.Sisi loved the out-of-doors and dreamed of exploring the world. A number of paintings in her rooms reflected her desires to travel and visit exotic lands, which she wasn’t allowed to do.Peggy was so fascinated by Sisi, she bought a biography on her. At 410 pages it was hardly light reading. Nor was it light carrying, or easy to fit in an already packed suitcase!
Peggy noted that the main reasons for Sisi’s unhappiness were the close-to-total control her mother-in-law had over her, and the fact that she was a very private person. The latter was a poor fit for being an empress of a vast empire expected to be constantly involved in public events and private meetings. She expressed her unhappiness in poetry. A particularly telling poem was included in the museum:
“I am a seagull of no land, I call no shore my home, I am bound to no place, I fly from wave to wave.”
She was assassinated at age 60 by an Italian anarchist.This bricked up wall we found as we exited the museum was not designed to keep Sisi home. It’s designed to keep visitors out of the official residence and workplace of the President of Austria, which is located on the other side.The Hofburg Palace and its connected buildings could take several days to explore but Peggy and I only had two hours. This duplicate of the Habsburg Coat of Arms and Crown is located on top of the Palace. Angels trumpet the glories of the empire.We liked this royal lion seated outside what’s known as the Swiss Gate of Hoffburg Palace.He was a handsome beast that looked quite regal.Atlas was holding up the universe on top of the 2.5 million book Austrian National Library in the Palace complex. It was punishment. Atlas was forced to carry the heavens on his shoulders by Zeus for leading the Titans in a rebellion against the Olympian gods. The gods were quite creative when dishing out sentences. Remember Sisyphus who was forced to push a heavy boulder up a mountain for his transgressions. It would then immediately roll back down for Sisyphus to push up again. Poor Prometheus, whose crime was giving humanity fire, was sentenced to having an eagle peck open his body every day and eat his liver. It conveniently grew back overnight to feed the eagle the next day.One of the most popular places to visit at the Palace complex is the Spanish Riding School of Vienna, which features the white Lippizaner horses known for their superb training. Once bred for war, the horses now earn their living by corralling tourist dollars.While we are on the subject of white war horses, we photographed these guys running rampant over a person near Atlas. My only question is how can you eat an ice-cream cone (or anything) while being trampled by a horse and strangling a snake? Given Peggy’s love of ice cream, she might be able to answer the question, especially if it was coated with Heath Bar bits and hot chocolate fudge.One more horsey thought. I can’t remember what great military hero/emperor/etc. this is, but I do remember our guide told us you could tell how he died by the position of the horse’s hoof. One hoof up meant he died from injuries suffered in battle. All four hooves on the ground meant he died of natural causes. Both hooves off the ground with the horse rearing would tell us he died in battle. Other guides told us this as well. Validity? I don’t know.We’ll close today with a visit to St. Michael’s Church which is opposite St. Michael’s Gate at the Hofburg Palace. Remember how I thought a huge painting of St. Stephan being stoned to death on the altar of St. Stephan’s Church was a bit weird. This is even stranger. This represents the bad angels being kicked out of heaven to roam as demons among mankind forever while Lucifer was sent straight to hell. A close up. The good guys are on top armed with various weapons while the bad guys aren’t doing very well. I have to think the huge wings of archangels would get in the way during close combat.St. Michaels is old, with a history stretching back over 8 centuries. I thought that this picture we found on the wall when we were leaving, spoke to the church’s age more than anything else we saw. The fresco is from around 1350. What’s going on is psychostasy, which was a new word for me. It means the weighing of souls. Have you been good or bad? This particular scene even comes with a rooting section, with the Devil on one side and the Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus on the other. St. Michael is doing the weighing. Apparently, Jesus is winning, even though it appears the Devil has attached a weight to his basket. Tricky fellow. Note he has a face on his belly. If that’s not duplicitous, what is?Not sure whether we will get a post up on Friday, given that it’s Thanksgiving weekend. If not, we’ll be back on Monday with more on Vienna’s historic downtown including this large green rabbit who seems to have landed himself a bottle of expensive Moet Champaign. That’s all for now. “I’m late, I’m late, for a very important date.” The rabbit hole is waiting.
Imagine living in a place with ceilings painted like this. Baroque art doesn’t get any more baroque than it does in the Schönbrunn Palace. Angels float through the air in sky boats while humans fill in the sides with activities ranging from war to farming: It’s a world of fantasy with the barest of holds on reality.A sky boat floats through the clouds, probably carrying Habsburg royalty along with angels. Geese fly through the air. What about the trumpets? Are they announcing Royal and Divine presence or serving as horns clearing a path? Make way!A scary, more real ceiling painting shows soldiers lined up to fight. While one group was firing, the other was kneeling in front, reloading their muskets.Here, a stern looking shepherd tends his flock of sheep. I’d look stern as well if a guy was about to jump out of the sky and land on top of me— or my sheep.Ornate chandeliers matched the ornate ceilings. Check out the walls.What does your imagination suggest here?While the Schönbrunn Palace has some 1,441 rooms, we visited maybe 15. One of the things that caught our attention in the rooms were beautiful stoves like this one. Imagine keeping them all burning. It would have required an army of servants. Non obtrusive side doors entered the rooms from hidden servant corridors to allow servants to do their work. Numerous paintings like the one on the right were found in the rooms we saw. They ranged from everyday people doing everyday things to portraits of Habsburg rulers.This peasant couple looks a little fuzzy, but hey, they were dancing fast and having fun. A guy on the right toasts them. And does the half moon on the building behind them show an outhouse? Probably not. More likely, it was a sign for the tavern where the revelers were getting their liquid refreshments.No fuzziness here. Royalty required more attention in their paintings. They wore clothes, jewels and symbols of power that needed to be shown off— along with bosoms. This is Maria Theresa, who ruled the Habsburg Empire for forty years (1740-1780), and managed to have 16 children along the way, most of whom were married off to cement political alliances throughout Europe. One was Marie Antoinette of France, known for her profligate spending and supposedly saying, “Let them eat cake,” when the poor were rioting in the streets of Paris from starvation. Not a very thoughtful statement, considering. She lost her head over it.While there was much of interest inside the Palace, Peggy and I actually spent an equal amount of time wandering around outside on our own. The Schönbrunn Palace is more popularly known as the Summer Palace. The Habsburgs like to spend their summers here. This is a section of the front. I provided a complete view at the end of my last post.This map provides a view of the Castle and the grounds that featured beautiful gardens and interesting sculptures. We hiked from the Palace up to the ‘Gloriette’ at the top of the map on top of a steep hill. Note the large zoo on the right. Started in 1752, it is the world’s oldest zoo still in operation.While we were at the end of flower season for Vienna, the gardens were still impressive. This provides a back view of the Summer Palace.The walkways along the edge of the gardens were filled with 32 life-plus size mythical deities and historical figures. This is Perseus, who the popular Percy Jackson books and movies were based on. Here, he borrowed Hermes’ winged hat and shoes and flew off to Medusa whose look could turn you to stone. Perseus is carefully looking the other way. Judging from his present status, however, he may have been little late.Our goal was to visit Neptune’s statue and the Gloriette above it.Ride ‘em Cowboy. Neptune’s home above a small lake included a number of other mythological creatures besides the trident carrying god of the ocean. What you have here is a merman (part man, part fish) going for a joy-ride on a hippocampus (part horse, part fish).And here’s Neptune. Not sure whether the woman is a mermaid but I don’t think I have ever seen a picture of a mermaid wearing a dress. It appears she has his attention.Neptune’s statue provided great views of the Summer Palace.The Palace from the perspective of a Hippocampus.Remember how I said St. Stephan’s Cathedral dominates the skyline above Vienna. We took this photo above the Neptune statue on our way up to the Glorietta. The church is on the right. Its only competition was a crane.And finally, the Gloriette. A gloriette is defined as “a building in a garden erected on a site that is elevated with respect to the surroundings.” This one was built as a ‘Temple of Glory’ in 1775 and served a a great viewpoint and ballroom. It was Vienna, after all, where umpteen top Viennese composers were busy writing waltzes and other dance music.A closer view. The glassed in middle section served as the ballroom.This mallard happily made use of the pond in front of the Gloriette.We’ll wrap up today’s visit to the Summer Palace with a side view of the Gloriette. Next we will return to the historic downtown of Vienna and visit the Winter Palace as well as other sites.A downtown view.
I’ve put on some mood music for today’s post: The Beautiful Blue Danube by Johann Strauss. Appropriately, it’s being played by the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra. This is the river and its beauty. Its blue green tint is caused by the time of day and clouds. Like all rivers, it has a variety of ever changing moods.
We leave the Colorado River as it flows through the Grand Canyon today and travel 6000 miles to the second river in our Great River Series, Europe’s Danube River. Peggy and I, along with her brother John and his wife Frances, cruised down the river from Vienna to the Black Sea for nine days in late September/early October this year while adding another 7 days with a pre-tour of Vienna in the beginning and a post-tour of Transylvania at the end.
Polar opposites come to mind when comparing the two experiences. The Colorado combined the world class natural beauty of the Grand Canyon with the high adventure experience of floating through roaring rapids in small rafts. Accommodations are best described as roughing it. We slept on the ground in our two person tent, prepared our own food, and took care of bathroom chores on the groover— which was hopefully hidden from public view by bushes and rocks. Whatever bathing took place was in the ice cold river or or side streams with our clothes on— might as well wash both at once, right? Side trips normally involved climbing up the steep, possibly dangerous sides of the Grand Canyon to enjoy the beauty or leap 10 to 20 feet off cliffs into small, hopefully deep, pools of water. As for weather, think up close and personal.
The Danube has a beauty of its own but lacks the incredible scenery of the Grand Canyon. Our ‘raft’ was a brand new river boat holding around 100 people, where we ate four course meals served to us by friendly, attentive staff. (Peggy had won them over on the first day. When we entered the dining room we’d hear, “Hi Peggy,” coming from all sides.) We slept on a king-sized bed, had large windows looking out on the river, enjoyed a hot shower every night, and had a toilet that, um, actually looked and behaved like a toilet. Our side trips were usually into major Eastern European cities known for their culture and stunning architecture. It wasn’t quite ‘roughing it.’
The primary difference, however, was on focus. On the Colorado, it was the river, the surrounding natural beauty, and the adventure. On the Danube, it was on history and the cities that border the river. The Danube had once served as the boundary for Rome. In the centuries since the region, known as the Balkans, had seen continuing invasions including the Mongols out of Asia and the Ottoman Turks from Turkey.
World War I started in Bosnia when Archduke Franz Ferdinand of the Austro-Hungarian Empire was assassinated by a Serbian nationalist. World War II ended with Russian tanks and troops rolling across the area and establishing the Communist Eastern Bloc nations. Ethnic rivalry, seen most recently in the bloody Kosovo conflict, has often been intense. The word Balkanization, which refers to a country or region breaking up into smaller, frequently hostile units as the result of ethnic, religious, or political differences, is actually based on what happened in the region.
We followed the Danube River traveling for about 1200 (1930 km) of its 1700 miles (2,730 km) in a southeast direction starting in Vienna and ending at the Black Sea. I’ll start this series in the classic city of Vienna. On today’s post, I am going to feature St. Stephan’s Cathedral which dominates Vienna’s skyline and is remarkably beautiful. And strange, in a medieval sort of way.
St. Stephan’s Church with its striking roof and its 446 feet (136 meters) tall south tower reaching for the sky. The roof is covered with some 230,000 glazed tiles. Note the birds flying between the tower and the roof. They had been disturbed by the ringing of the noon bell. It is said that Beethoven first realized how totally deaf he was when he saw the birds fly out of St. Stephan’s bell tower but couldn’t hear the bell ringing.A front view of St.Stephan’s. The main entrance to the church is just below the overhang. It’s know as the Giant’s Door. The story behind the name is that the thighbone of a mammoth was found in 1443 while workers were digging the foundation for the North Tower and hung it over the door, where it apparently resided for decades. Did they see it as a unique decoration? Or maybe they thought of it as a message from God…A view of the North Tower where the mastodon bone was found. Originally the tower was supposed to reach the height of the South Tower but the funding came to an end. It does, however house the Pummerin, or, as it is known locally, the Boomer, a 44,380 pound (20,130 kilogram) bell, which is the second largest swinging bell in Europe. The two eagles on the roof are the symbols of Austria and Vienna. Note the monument on the lower left…The Capistran Chancel was once the main pulpit in St. Stephan’s. It’s named after St. John of Capistrano, a Franciscan, who is said to have preached a Holy Crusade from it against the Muslim Turks in the 1450s. It shows St. Francis tramping on a defeated Turk. From what I’ve read about St. Francis, that’s fake news. St. Francis was a man of peace who risked his life to establish peace between the Christians and Turks.
Also, I wouldn’t be surprised if you are thinking swallows when you hear Capistrano. And you’d be right. The Franciscans also named their early mission south of LA, California after the Saint, San Juan Capistrano. And that’s where the swallows return to each year. There is even a song about it. One final note: The door to the church’s catacombs is next to the monument. There are the skeletal remains of over 11,000 people in the catacombs. I wonder if the mammoth’s bone is there as well? Why not.Most people think of beauty and vast size when they visit Europe’s great cathedrals. And yes, there is that. After checking out the beauty, however, I like to focus in on the details. I found this stone carving on the side of the church. Is it a bird; is it a plane (as they said about Superman)? No! It’s St. Francis, appearing as a bird carrying a tree. It’s much more like the usual portrayal of a good saint than his image of stomping Turks. He loved trees and was said to talk to animals. If you see an image of a saint from medieval times with animals, birds or trees, you can almost bet it will be St. Francis.This is a photo of the inside of the Cathedral. It’s busy. I meant it to be. The number of statues and paintings of saints and important church personages was mind blowing. This is looking toward the high alter where a painting of St. Stephan is featured.He’s being stoned. It would be hard to find a painting of the saint when he isn’t. Even Rembrandt painted one. Here’s the thing. Most people were illiterate in the Middle Ages and the church fathers wanted their parishioners to know their saints and understand the messages they carried. Like St. Francis and nature. And St. Stephan and stoning. A bit gruesome perhaps, but most martyred Christian saints are tied to their martyrdom.
There are several at St. Stephan’s including St. Sebastian with arrows sticking out, St. Barbara holding a castle tower and St. Catherine of Alexandria holding a spiked wheel. Their stories are all similar. Deep faith brings them into conflict with non-Christian authorities. They are tortured and God miraculously intervenes to save them. Finally, they are killed. Thus you have faith, suffering because of faith, the power of God to miraculously intervene, and ultimately their willingness to die because of their faith. I assume they are all pulled into heaven where they live happily ever after. A story with a happy ending…
The woman standing behind at least 10 other beings, including the weird angels/people peeking out from the clouds, is St. Barbara. Her daddy kept her hidden away in a castle until he discovered she had converted to Christianity. Then he took her to the local pagan priest who submitted her to various tortures, from which she would miraculously be cured by God each night. Finally out of frustration, Daddy chopped her head off. On the way home he was struck by lightning and burned to a crisp. There’s a message here. Anyway, the castle represents where she was held, the sword with which she died and the crown her martyrdom. BTW, because of the lightning, St. Barbara became the patron saint of artillerymen and miners— things that go boom.
I, for one, if I ever have need for a saint, will stick with St. Francis of Assisi, the man of peace and nature who died of a natural disease. I like a guy who can talk to an almond tree and it suddenly breaks out in blooms.
Here’s another symbol, Baby Jesus and his apple. It refers to him as the New Adam who will redeem humankind. I couldn’t help thinking, “Here Mom, your really should try this apple. Snake says it’s great.”The church’s pulpit is quite impressive. it includes realistic stone sculptures of the Four Fathers of the Catholic Church: Augustine, Jerome, Ambrose, and Gregory. The pulpit is found in the central part of the church rather than in the front. In the era before microphones, this was necessary for the priest to be heard. Note the balustrade on the right…It was covered with frogs and lizards biting each other, which, according to our guide, was to remind the priest/bishop/cardinal mounting the stairs of his many sins. A stone dog stood guard at the top of the steps to protect the speaker while he gave his sermon. Even then, it appears that dogs were considered man’s best friend. Cats, associated with women, were considered evil. Hmmm. An impressive organ can be seen beyond the stairs.Every cathedral we visited on our journey down the Danube had one. Looking at this one, I was reminded of the first massive organ I ever saw. I was on an Episcopal Church related trip in the early 60s and we stopped off at Grace Cathedral in San Francisco. At the time, Grace was one of the most progressive churches in America. It still is. My minister, Father Baskin, grinned at me and sat down at the keyboard. The sound was incredible, echoing throughout the church. He played an old ditty that I was familiar with, “The worms crawl in, the worms crawl out, the worms play pinnacle on your snout.” Father Baskin was one of the best men I have ever known. He was my kind of priest.There were many other strange sights that caught my attention as I wandered around the church, including this knight with his codpiece, meant to protect his vitals during battle. They were quite the fashion statement of the time and kept getting longer and longer. And don’t you wonder how his helmet (on the left) could ever fit over his hair.It’s time to move on, however. (Did I just hear, past time!) Next up is Vienna’s Summer Palace.
I’m going to wrap up our Colorado River posts on the Great River Series today. We will start just below Lava Falls Rapid where we ended our last post and journey to the beginning of Lake Mead where we finish our trip. I chose this photo from near the end to make a point: There never was anywhere in our trip down the Colorado that lacked in beauty.Much of this post will focus on the scenic views as we made our way from the Grand Canyon to Lake Mead. (Photo by Don Green.)I’ll also feature interesting rock formations such as this lava flow. This one was appropriately near Lava Falls Rapids. The columns are formed when a lava flow has turned solid but is still hot. And of course we will continue to feature the fun folks we had along on our trip and their interesting antics. Spontaneous dancing took place at camp after we had successfully made it through Lava Falls. Tom is in the background…Admiring the performance and supporting a new ‘do.’Further adventures awaited us as well…As expected, Bone would continue to find ways to get into mischief and amuse us.Now this would be a great place to row a boat!With most of the rapids behind us, I finally took a turn.Dave saw it as an opportunity to nap until we reached a minor rapid and I insisted he wake up to guide me through it.Peggy also was willing to take an oar. With Jame’s help…You can probably guess the name of this rock. It’s called Pumpkin Springs. The color is caused by minerals flowing out of the hot springs above it that include high levels of arsenic , as well as zinc, lead, and copper. Bathing in the hot springs is discouraged. Drinking the water is not an option!The cooking crew was getting a little rowdy in Camp.But Peggy was seeking balance.A convenient ledge gave those not working at the moment front row seats.Bone decided he had something in common with Steve Van Dore’s boat, Thing 2.A ‘cool’ way to read a good book?This pyramid-like structure in the background, Diamond Peak, reminded me of our trip up the Nile River. We will be returning there as part of our Great River Series. The dark rocks are volcanic.Tom had a final adventure planned for us that I mentioned above. it involved climbing this step/rope ladder near Diamond Creek. The Hualapai Tribe built series of ladders to help people access a ‘bathhouse’ on the creek.Beth climbing the ladder. (Photo by Don Green.)A cold shower was one of the options of the bathhouse. I decided Bone, me and my clothes would all benefit.A more civilized approach was a few feet away.I was attracted to a colorful set of rocks found in the area.Our ‘bathhouse’ provided creative frames.Another example.One of the most unusual sites we saw along the Colorado was this hundred foot waterfall made out of Travertine Rock.Another perspective.I caught this close-up of travertine framed by the sky at a stop nearby.And Don caught these maidenhair ferns.While Bone found a barrel cactus to perch on. Tough butt.And the scenery kept being spectacular as the miles rolled (rowed) by.Cliffs.Distant vistas.A combination of the river’s edge and far away.And a final view of the beauty that had awed us on our 280 mile journey through the Grand Canyon to Lake Mead.We were privileged to see several big horn sheep in our last hundred miles. I think these may have been lined up for their turn at a natural salt lick. It came as a big surprise when we spotted a different type of animal with horns…That convinced us that our journey was nearing its end! (Photo by Don Green.)Peggy struck her Titanic pose. I saw her do the same thing once over the piranha infested water of the Amazon River. At least, if she fell off here, the only thing that would happen to her is she’d get wet.Jame introduced us to a new way of rowing…And the women, for a reason I couldn’t quite fathom, decided to do a fingernail check. It’s possible that Jame felt as perplexed as I did. Or is that a semi-thumbs up?We woke up on our last morning with our campsite flooded. Go figure. Everyone good-naturedly went about his or her business of doing morning chores.A few miles down river we reached the take-out point. Our journey was over. It was time to pack up one last time. It may look like everyone was ‘laying down on the job’ here. Actually we were squishing the air out of one of the rafts. A final photo of Tom. He looked tired— but it was well earned tired. We all owed him a great debt of gratitude for the incredible adventure he had taken us on: For all of the planning and organizing, and for doing everything in his power to assure that we experienced everything the Colorado River and the Grand Canyon had to offer, and doing so in a safe manner— while having loads of fun along the way. While thanking Tom, I also want to thank the boatmen (plus Megan) whose hard work and skills meant so much to our successful journey.Don, I think, represented us all, while looking a bit scruffy, looked off into the distance one last time, contemplating the wonder of what we had just been through.Looking equally scruffy, I had added another whole layer of appreciation for the Canyon I had loved and explored over the years on foot, by mule, by car and by helicopter. And now by raft.And Peggy, who had loved every minute of the adventure, looked just about like she always does. How in the heck does she do it? (Photo by Don Green.)And finally: Bone. No-one had more fun than he did. Virtually everyone spent time with him. As a final gesture, he made sure that everybody initialed his PFD.
Next post: It’s on to the Danube River and Vienna!
Deer Creek Falls was at mile 136, less than a mile below Christmas Tree Cave where I finished our last post. Here, Peggy enjoys the roar and the mist.
Today will take us another 44 miles down the river, which is short on miles but filled with both beauty and adventure. The beauty will be provided by Deer Creek Falls combined with a hike that takes us high above the river, and Havasu Creek that feature sparkling aqua blue water. Lava Falls Rapid will provide much of the adventure. Its #10 rating in difficulty recognizes it as one of the most challenging rapids in the world. We looked forward to it with excitement, and I might add, more than a little trepidation.
Deer Creek Falls and its 180 foot drop.Getting up to Deer Creek above the falls involved a substantial climb. You can see the trail as it makes its steep, windy way up.Don caught a photo of us high above the Colorado. (Photo by Don Green.)This Shangri-La with its welcome shade, magnificently carved rocks and cool water, made the trip up more than worthwhile.Or maybe I should say cold water. Susan obviously thought so.Beth Annon found another way to enjoy the coolness of Deer Creek. (Photo by Don Green)Bone wants to jump into the waterfall. Peggy is providing him with advice, “If you do that, it will be bye-bye Bone.”She also warned him to watch out for Tom and Don, the very definition of trouble.With good reason.After people got though playing in the waterfall, we all had time for R and R. Dave took it seriously. I’m convinced he can nap anywhere. The rope provided a rather unique pillow. Nice rubber band bracelet, too.Peggy and I took advantage of the time to capture some of the areas unique beauty.Deer Creek had cut an impressive canyon of its own.The colorful carved rocks and crystal clear creek made for fun photos.Another example.Our trip back down provided more views of the Colorado River…And our boats.Our continuing trip down the Colorado provided more views of the magnificent Grand Canyon.And another.When we reached Havasu Creek at mile 156.8, we weren’t alone. It’s a popular area and a commercial group was exploring the creek. They were wrapping up their visit, however, and we soon had the creek to ourselves. (Photo by Don Green.)The creek is known for its vibrant blue color and unique travertine formations, both of which are caused by large amounts of calcium carbonate in the water. The beauty of the area is jaw dropping. (Photo by Don Green.)Water flowing over a travertine formation.Whether flowing in a flat stream…Down a gentle rapid…Or through a carved canyon, it captured us.Even Bone found himself on edge over its beauty. We hiked up the creek along a narrow path. (Photo by Don Green.)While some continued to hike up the creek toward the Havasupai Village… (Havasu Creek is on the Havasupai land.)Others chose to luxuriate…..with a mud bath for example.Or quiet swim…Or seeking bliss. Peggy and I stayed behind because we had been to the Havasupai Village a few years earlier when our son Tony had flown us in by helicopter.While this looks weird, it’s a rafter tradition. The crew here is forming a butt dam. (Note Tom. I sometimes wondered if he had a hidden stash of magic mushrooms along.) When the ‘dam’ had created a lake…The crew dashed off to the side, creating a mini flood.Once again, we are floating down a beautiful calm river. That’s about to end. Lava Falls Rapid is waiting for us.First we camp, however. Don demonstrates how to be a pack animal. Was he planning to give up his day job as a probate judge and apply for a position as a Grand Canyon mule?You can hear the roar of Lava Falls Rapids long before you get there. Here we were floating down a calm river, came around a bend and there it was— churning! Waiting to eat our boats. We had been living in anticipation of this moment the whole 180 miles of our journey.Extremely careful scouting is called for.We look on in awe as our boatmen plotted out the best route. There was huge hole waiting to suck our boats in and a narrow pathway around it. Dave stood there for a long time, staring at the river, planning his route. He had been waiting for years for this opportunity, applying again and again for a permit. Don took this photo. I wish to thank him again for his superb job of capturing Peggy and me as we went through the rapids with Steve. Otherwise we wouldn’t have the record we do.This is Megan kayaking through the rapids. Can you imagine yourself being there? Shortly afterwards, she rolled. (Photo by Don Green.)And we begin one of the most intense experiences we have ever had. It’s the journey of a lifetime that lasts forever and takes approximately 20 seconds.I still get the jitters when I see this photo. Peggy and I were hanging on to special ties with all of the strength we had. Steve was rowing like a madman, using all of his considerable skills, trying to keep control of his boat. (Photo by Don Green.)Five seconds later we had disappeared under a wall of water on the edge of the massive hole. (Photo by Don Green.)And then emerged out the other side! Check out Peggy. I think she was hanging on with her teeth as well as her hands. (Photo By Don Green.)Even then our ride wasn’t over. Wait! Where’s Peggy? UH-OH. (Just kidding, she’s hidden on the other side of me.) Photo by Don Green.We made it to Tequila Point just below the rapids. The tequila was waiting!Folks helped Megan gather her equipment. She was fine, but definitely ready for a shot.Everyone was happy.Next post: The final hundred miles of our trip down the Colorado River.
Wandering through Time and Place 