An Explosion that Shook the World… Mt. St. Helens

August 30, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 4 Comments

Mt. St. Helens in August, 2013. Peggy and I were looking down into the crater from the Johnston Ridge Observatory.

It was in early July 1980 and I was flying north to help plan a hundred-mile fundraising backpack trek in Alaska. The pilot deviated from his route to show us Mt. St. Helens.

It was total devastation, a scene from Dante’s hell.

A month and a half earlier, on May 18, Mt. St. Helens had blown her top, literally. On May 17 the mountain had stood 9677 feet tall; on May 19 it stood at 8,364 feet. The mountain had a history of being the most active volcano in the Cascade range of volcanoes– mountains that dominate the skyline of the northwestern part of the US, and are part of the ring of fire that stretches around the edges of the Pacific Ocean.

This photo on display at the Mount St. Helens National Monument shows the mountain before the explosion.

Another photo at the Monument shows Mt. St. Helen four months after the eruption.

Peggy and I call the area home. In fact I have climbed two of the mountains, Shasta and Lassen, and we see a third, Mt. McLoughlin, every time we drive the 30 miles into town for groceries. Normally we think of the mountains as dormant and a beautiful addition to our region. But all are capable of awakening. And all are capable of spewing disaster.

Weeks before Mt. St. Helens blew up, she had been showing signs of an imminent explosion. Couched between the two major urban areas of Portland and Seattle, the area had become a mecca for tourists, volcanologists and, of course, the media. Worldwide attention was guaranteed.

The explosion, when it came, was much more devastating than had been expected. A huge, lateral blast sent a cloud of dense, super hot steam filled with debris rolling down the mountain at 300 miles per hour and devastating an area of 230 square miles. Next to volcano nothing was left. Starting at about seven miles, thousands of trees were snapped off at their base and laid down pointing outward. Further out, a narrow zone of trees had been left standing but the trees were scorched beyond recovery.

The side of the mountain that was blown away added to the disaster. Crushed rock and melted glacial ice joined with downed trees and rushed into Spirit Lake and down the Toutle River travelling at speeds up to 150 miles per hour. Hummocky deposits between 150 and 620 feet were left behind.

Today, Mt. St. Helens stands as a National Monument to educate people about volcanoes and the recuperative power of nature. Three visitor centers tell the story extremely well. Peggy and I have driven by the area several times and promised ourselves each time that we would visit. Finally, on our trip back from Alaska, we succeeded.

Looking down at the valley floor in front of Mt. St. Helen, the Toutle River carves through debris left behind by the eruption which reaches a depth of over 300 feet in places.

Looking down at the valley floor in front of Mt. St. Helen, the Toutle River carves through debris left behind by the eruption. The debris reaches a depth of over 300 feet in places. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

Thousands of trees were literally blown down by the eruption. Many can still be seen today.

This stump shows how the trees were ripped off from their bases by the blast.

Looking northeast (left) from Johnson Ridge, a small sliver of Spirit Lake can be seen at the base of another ridge. Once, it was a beautiful resort area. One of the biggest stories about the explosion was how Harry Truman, an elderly man who owned a lodge at the lake, refused to leave and died when the avalanche buried the lake.

Looking northeast (left) from Johnson Ridge, Spirit Lake can be seen at the base of another ridge. Once, it was a beautiful resort area. One of the biggest stories at the time of the explosion was how Harry Truman, an elderly man who owned a lodge at the lake, refused to leave and died when the avalanche buried the lake.

Looking Northeast from Johnson Ridge, a small sliver of Spirit Lake can be seen at the base of the ridge. Once, it was a beautiful resort area. One of the biggest stories about the explosion was how Harry Truman, an elderly man who owned a lodge at the lake, refused to leave and dyed there.

Jimmy Carter, who was President at the time, flew over the area in a helicopter and described it as a moonscape. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

The recuperative power of nature is half the story about Mt. St. Helens 30 years after the explosion. It is said that fireweed, the pinkish red flower here, was said to be growing out of the ash 20 days after the explosion.

The recuperative power of nature is half the story about Mt. St. Helens. It is recorded that fireweed, the pinkish red flower here, was growing out of the ash 20 days after the explosion.

I felt the young tree growing out of a stump at Mt. St. Helens provided the best example of nature on the rebound. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

As we drove off down the ridge into the mist, I couldn’t help but wonder when Mt. St. Helens would choose to explode again. It will happen. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

NEXT BLOG: Join me on Monday when I begin my series of posts and photos on Burning Man 2013.

Watson Lake: A Forest of 70,000 Signs… North to Alaska

August 28, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 6 Comments

If you look closely, you just might find your hometown among the 70,000 signs of Watson Lake.

When you are driving north to Alaska and enter the Yukon Territory, the first major town you come across is Watson Lake. The community has a strange claim to fame: a forest of signs from 70,000 communities around the world. People travelling the road have been leaving them behind for 70 years; they represent towns, cities, businesses, individuals and organizations.

According to legend, it all started in 1942 when a homesick GI who was helping build the Alaska Highway put up a sign that pointed toward his home and listed the miles. Ever since people have continued the tradition of saying “I was here.”

Peggy and I, along with our friends Bob and Linda Bray, wandered through the sign forest looking for our hometowns (no luck). It was like entering a maze. The following photos provide some perspective on what it is like, but you truly have to be there to get the whole effect.

This close up provides an idea of how closely the signs are packed together and how far people have come to place them here. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

My friend Bob Bray, provides a perspective on how high the “trees” in the forest are. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

Watson Lake sign forest in Yukon Territory.

Just about anything can be turned into a sign, as this toilet seat demonstrates. Also note the skull. How about “Parking for Estonians Only.”

I wonder how many street signs from around the world have been ripped off to make their way to the Yukon Territory?

I wonder how many of these street and town signs from around the world were stolen before making their way to the Yukon Territory?

The Watson Lake Sign Forest also features equipment used in making the Alaska Highway. In this case, Peggy serves as my model. Later I will do a blog on the building of the Alaska Highway, which took place in 1942 under the threat of Japanese invasion.

Speaking of the Alaska Highway, it was also featured in the forest. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

Just outside of the sign forest, we stopped at the corner of 9th Street and the Alaska Highway. It was time to continue our journey.

The Watson Lake Sign Forest provided an interesting stop on our way north to Alaska. But it was time to hit the road. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

NEXT BLOG: In 1980 Mt. St. Helen, located in the state of Washington, blew its top and became one of the world’s most famous volcanoes. Peggy and I stopped by for a visit on our way home from Alaska. (I am presently at Burning Man and will return next week to begin the Burning Man 2013 series.)

Weird, Wonderful, Civic Minded, Burning Man… Burning Man 2013

August 23, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 11 Comments

I love things that are unique and humorous. This suave sphinx at Burning Man made me laugh.

I like unique– even more if it’s strange or amusing. Burning Man qualifies. First time visitors to Black Rock City, aka Virgin Burners, can be overwhelmed by the experience. At least I was. I walked around like a South Dakota farm boy in New York City. Or maybe it was more like a chocoholic in a chocolate factory. After ten years the newness has worn off, but I still find much that intrigues me.

Most of all, I love the art; but I also like the elaborate costumes, the magical nights, the mutant vehicles, the performance art, and the characters. Ah yes, the characters– the nature of the event almost requires you be one to participate. Imagine 50,000 together in a raging dust storm. Scary, isn’t it.

The art at Burning Man can be spectacular, such as this tall, nude woman.

Thousands of hours can go into the creation of unique works of art found on the Playa. This ship from last year is a great example.

The art can be uplifting, like this 2006 sculpture…

Or ferocious like this dragon…

Or humorous like this dog.

The costumes and the characters also have great appeal.

As do the mutant vehicles like this mammoth.

And the thousands of performing artists.

Burning Man becomes almost magical at night.

And then there is the culture. I don’t mean the sculpture on the Playa, or the opera you might find at Center Camp; I am talking about the ten principles that Larry Harvey and his devoted band of organizers promote: inclusion, gifting, decommodification, self-reliance, self-expression, communal support, respect for the environment, civic responsibility, participation, and immediacy.

Most of these are self-explanatory but three can use further clarification.

Decommodification means that you can’t buy or sell things at Burning Man. Nor can you promote products or companies. There are no sponsorships; there is no advertising. In addition to being self-reliant (having what you need to survive for a week in the desert– water, food, etc.), gifting is the response to decommodification. Everything from free drinks, to food, to bike repairs, to entertainment, costumes and much, much more is given away in one huge potlatch. And everyone is expected to participate by also gifting.

My friend Beth Lovering, a master bike mechanic, provides free bike repairs as part of her gifting at Burning Man. I have always thought of the work I put into this blog featuring the people and art of Burning Man as my gift back to the event.

My friend Beth Lovering, a master bike mechanic, provides free bike repairs as part of her gifting at Burning Man. I have always thought the work that Peggy and I put into this blog featuring the people and art of Burning Man as our gift back to the event. People from 170 countries around the world have stopped by here to learn more about Burning Man.

Immediacy borders on spiritual. In the words of Burning Man: “We seek to overcome barriers that stand between us and a recognition of our inner selves, the reality of those around us, participation in society, and contact with a natural world exceeding human powers. No idea can substitute for this experience.”

Nothing captures the spiritual side of Burning Man like the Temple where Burners leave thousands of messages to loved ones. (Photo by Tom Lovering)

The burning of the temple on Sunday evening sends the messages skyward. Always noisy, Burning Man is silent for the burn.

Maybe the most unique thing about Burning Man is that it tries to live up to these principles. For example, there is none of the trash floating around that you find at most large events, even the tiniest piece is chased down. The wilderness ethic of ‘leave no trace’ is serious business at Black Rock City.

So while Burning Man is indeed a huge party in the desert with its share of people who come and party for seven days straight, it is also more. I am quite comfortable with Harvey’s ten principles and believe that most are goals we can all strive for. But tell me truthfully– assuming you have never been to Burning Man, did you expect civic responsibility to be one of the ten?

NEXT BLOGS: I’ll be out this coming week at Burning Man so I am pre-posting three more blogs on my trip up the Alaska Highway that Peggy and I returned from this week. First up I want to look at Road Houses. Once essential on the long road to Alaska, they are becoming an endangered species. Second, we will visit the sign forest at Watson Lake in the Yukon Territory with its 70,000 plus street signs. Finally, on our way back through Washington State last week, we stopped off at Mt. St. Helens, one of the modern world’s most famous volcanoes. I actually flew over the volcano a few weeks after it blew its top in 1980.

And finally, to those who visit this blog (thank you), and to the blogs I follow, I will be off the Internet next week. I will catch up with your comments and blogs afterwards.

Starting on September 2, I will begin my series reporting on Burning Man 2013.

I’ll close with a couple of my ‘strange and wonderful’ favorites. These cool cats…

And this crazy rabbit worthy of Alice in Wonderland.

Okay, Burning Man Has a Touch of Cult… Burning Man 2013

August 21, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 8 Comments

Art projects are encouraged to reflect the year’s theme. These oil tankers welded together reflected environmental concern.

Each year, Larry Harvey, the founder of Burning Man, selects the event’s theme for the year. Art projects, theme camps, mutant vehicles, etc. are invited to use the theme for inspiration, or not. Burning Man is a do-your-own-thing kind of place

Psyche, The Green Man, Evolution, and Beyond Belief are examples of past themes. They are relatively easy to relate to. This year’s theme is Cargo Cults, which strikes me as odd. What is Harvey thinking?

The personal image I use for this blog and Facebook was taken the year Burning Man had an evolution theme. The ape was part of art piece on evolution. There is some question whether the ape or I represent an advance in evolution.

The personal image I use for this blog and Facebook was taken the year Burning Man theme was about hope, fear and the future. Are we evolving toward something more positive? BTW, there is some question whether the ape or I represent the advance in evolution. (Photo by Ken Lake)

I first learned of Cargo Cults in a zany book by Christopher Moore, The Island of the Sequined Love Nun. Moore is one of those folks whose imagination can take you on a laughing roller coaster ride and leave you asking, “What just happened?” If you like strange, I highly recommend his books.

Anyway, Cargo Cults were a phenomenon that grew out of the impact of World War II on certain South Seas islands. Traditional cultures with little knowledge of or contact with the modern world were suddenly buried under an avalanche of technology and material goods as first Japan and then the Allies occupied the islands.

On one level, it was like manna from heaven. On another, it resembled hell. Traditional cultures buckled under the impact and native inhabitants were left without the underpinnings of their belief systems. When the allies packed up at the end of World War II and took their goodies with them, the natives were left with nothing.

Cargo Cults were the result. They carried a mixed message. Forget all of the modern stuff and return to your traditional practices. Think of a fundamentalist preacher urging “Old Time Religion” as a response to modern trends. But there was more. Returning to the past would also get the goods flowing again, the manna from heaven. The natives went out into the jungle, built airplane runways, and waited in expectation. Their cult included the belief that the cargo would magically reappear.

As a Peace Corps Volunteer in Liberia, West Africa, I watched the conflict between modern and traditional cultures. And I watched as my students struggled with the conflict. Existing with one foot in each world creates a difficult balancing act. It is easy to get lost. I also think it is easy to lose what is good in the old and take on what is bad in the new. “Dark magic,” xenophobic tribalism and grasping materialism make a poisonous brew… regardless of the culture. Liberia and its tragic civil wars certainly proved this.

And yet, the clash of cultures has often created the dynamic mix of old and new that allows and encourages us to move forward, to see old problems in new ways, and to find new solutions.

I can’t wait to see how this year’s theme will be handled at Burning Man. The stalwarts of the event believe Burning Man is more than a huge party in the desert. They like to believe they are creating a new culture. And maybe, to a degree, they are. If they are a little cultish in their approach, it comes with the territory. The question is how a Cargo Cult fits in.

In my next blog, I will explore what I consider the positive aspects of the Burning Man “culture.”

The Burning of the Man at Burning Man (and lots of other stuff) represents the impermanence in life. But it also represents rebirth...

The Burning of the Man at Burning Man (and lots of other stuff) represents the impermanence of life and letting go. It’s a key element in the Burning Man culture. But it also represents rebirth…

Each year, like the Phoenix, a new Man rises out of the ashes and sits on a base representing the year’s theme. This year’s Man will be sitting on top of a flying saucer. Put that together with Cargo Cult… Hmmm.

Why Is A Very Large, Naked Man Riding His Bike in Front of Our Camp? Burning Man 2013

August 19, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 7 Comments

Burning Man's Black Rock City in the remote northern Nevada Desert.

Over 40,000 people will be making the trek to the remote northern Nevada desert next week and creating Black Rock City, home to the annual event known as Burning Man. Peggy and I will be there. We will begin reporting on our 2013 experience on September 2.

The clock is ticking. It is serious countdown time for Burning Man 2013. Peggy and I hit the road on Sunday, six days from now. And I haven’t done an ounce of planning or preparation. Nada. We were too busy driving up the Alaska Highway and back. When we should have been making our costumes, we were hanging out with the Kodiak Bears, or catching salmon, or dodging potholes in the Yukon Territory.

I should be nervous. Heck, Peggy should be nervous. Burning Man is my responsibility. Soon we will be in the midst of raging dust storms and stifling heat in the remote Black Rock Desert where a city of 40,000 people plus will appear and disappear in a week’s time. What will we eat, what will we wear, what will we drink?

One of numerous dust storms makes it way across the Black Rock desert, engulfing people and mutant vehicles alike. (Photo by Don Green)

One of numerous dust storms makes it way across the Black Rock Desert, engulfing people, a giant slide and a mutant vehicle. (Photo by Don Green)

Dust storm invades Center Camp at Burning Man.

Peggy ‘battens down the hatches’ in a valiant but hopeless attempt to keep out the dust from a storm that has invaded Center Camp. (Photo by Ken Lake)

Are we psychologically prepared for a week of port-a-potty toilets and baby-wipe baths? Or should this be the year we practice cleanliness by running naked behind the water truck? That’s always a sight. And speaking of sights, are we prepared for the very large, naked man who insists on riding his bike back and forth in front of our camp several times a day?

And noise, the 24/7 beat of heavy metal music, and drums, and mutant vehicles with mega loud speakers. Make a note: take noisemaker with extra batteries. No, make that two noisemakers with a box of 50 Costco batteries and earplugs.

Does any of this sound like fun? Actually it is. Or at least it’s unique. And it’s addictive. I’ve been ten times or so. I don’t remember anymore. Which may be another problem related to Burning Man. (grin) But I am a fan and once again I look forward to sharing the experience with you… the great art, the craziness, the people, the magic, the desert and all of the other factors that go into making Burning Man one of the greatest shows on earth.

Will this monster be awaiting us when we arrive at Burning Man?

Or how about this jolly looking fellow?

Maybe a big breasted giant bee awaits us.

Or maybe, horror of horrors a big breasted giant bee awaits us.

Should I be anxious as this Burning Man street sign suggests and spend my week in worried preparation. Or should I trust my luck to chance?

Should I be anxious as this Burning Man street sign suggests and spend my week in worried preparation. Or should I lay back and trust my luck to chance?

NEXT BLOG: What’s with this year’s theme and what the heck is a Cargo Cult anyway?

Tsunami Ship Becomes Fish Processing Plant… And Other Kodiak Stories

August 16, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 11 Comments

Star of Kodiak fish processing plant in Kodiak, Alaska.

This big ship is parked in downtown Kodiak where it has rested ever since the 1964 Alaska Tsunami tossed it up on shore. It was too big to throw back, so the enterprising residents turned it into a fish processing plant, a fate it has happily pursued ever since.

I don’t know about you, but Peggy and I take lots of photographs. I am sure our trip to Alaska will be in the neighborhood of 3500 if I ever get around to counting them. Darn digital– why take one photo when five will suffice? And then there is sorting, and selecting, and cropping, and making slight color adjustments, and…

Ultimately, even with the most critical selection process, I end up with more than twice as many photos as I can use for a particular blog. Like where in the heck am I going to put the cute picture of the Golden Retriever lying on his back with his long legs stretched everywhere.

Fin is one happy Golden Retriever. This is one of his favorite sleeping poses. Here he had his eyes open and was wondering if doggy decorum required him to move.

So this is my Kodiak wrap up where I will post some of the photos that got left out. I figure I will use about a third of the ones I’ve chosen. (grin)

Any clue what this is? It's the bone structure of a Grey Whale's head. The Kodiak Wildlife Refuge Museum has the whole skeleton.

Any clue what this is? It’s the head of a grey whale on display at the Kodiak Wildlife Refuge Museum.

Here’s the whale before he was buried, dug up and scraped. I assume the process took a strong constitution. The skeleton is quite impressive. We owe the folks who did the job.

Grey Whales rib cage and hands, oh, I mean fins. Is there any question about a whale's mammal ancestry...

Grey Whales rib cage and hands, oh, I mean fins. It sure appears this guy may have once wandered on land.

Long before Americans made their way into the far north, the Russians were there… and still are, as this Russian Orthodox Church in Kodiak attests to.

Kodiak has a number of great walks and we went on a couple of them between fishing expeditions. We found this shelf fungus on a tree along one of the trails. The locals call it bear bread. We came on another one that had been torn apart. Hello Bear!

I found this lake reflection shot along the same trail. Moss covered trees and Devil's Club (the plant) also lined the trail.

I found this lake reflection shot along the same trail. Moss covered trees and Devil’s Club (the plant) also lined the route. You can’t see the thorns on the Devil’s Club, but I guarantee they are there having backpacked through them from time to time during the years I wandered Alaska’s back country.

Another reflection shot on the same lake captured these yellow pond lilies.

Yellow pond lily flower in Kodiak, Alaska.

Naturally, I had to take a close up of one of the pond lily flowers.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t include a photo of what the locals called Pushki and I have always called Cow Parsnip. It is one of those plants that mothers are eager to keep their children out of since it can cause serious reactions on some people… including welts.

Another walk to us to the ocean and Pirate Booty Beach, a name our grandkids provided due to the treasures they found there. I considered this seaweed a treasure.

And these barnacles.

The boys thought these strange metallic sculptures were closer to pirate booty. Decades ago the area had been a dump. The ocean, time and waves had worked their wonders on what had once been cars and other “useful” items.

We all agreed that tide pools contained treasures. Our grandson Connor is reflected in this one.

Grandson Cooper joined us on our walks. I loved the grin. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

The hard work of hiking and fishing deserves its reward. In this case, it was a soft ice cream cone from McDs, half of which ended up on Chris’s face. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson.)

And there’s the nap with Chris and Connor… two tired boys.

I’ll close with this photo of Tony and Cammie with a great thanks to them for making our Kodiak adventure as special as it was.

NEXT BLOGS: We will interrupt our Alaska Adventure for a week as Peggy and I prepare for our annual trip to Burning Man in the remote Nevada Desert. The week we are in Burning Man without Internet access, I will pre-post three more Alaska Highway blogs. Afterwards I will share our 2013 Burning Man Adventures.

Responsible for 4 Million Square Miles… The Coast Guard on Kodiak Island

August 14, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 8 Comments

H-60 ready to fly at Coast Guard Station in Kodiak, Alaska.

An H-60 helicopter located on the Coast Guard Station on Kodiak Island is fueled up and ready to fly on a moment’s notice.

An H-60 Helicopter sits in front of the large helicopter repair and maintenance hangar at the Coast Guard station on Kodiak Island. It’s on ready alert, fueled up and prepared to take off at a moment’s notice. Whether it’s a fishing boat in distress, a lost hiker, a wandering oil rig, or a remote village medical emergency, the pilots, cutter crews, maintenance crews, and rescue specialists of the Coast Guard are available around the clock to perform their errands of mercy.

Another view of the flight ready H-60.

They also monitor commercial fishing, keep an eye out for environmental disasters such as oil spills, and perform routine maintenance on buoys and other marine navigational aids. It’s a big job, especially when you consider that the Kodiak station is responsible for some four million square miles.

It is also a challenging and dangerous job. If you have watched the Weather Channel series, Coast Guard Alaska, you are aware that Alaska has some of the most severe weather in the world and that the Coast Guard teams are expected to perform their rescue efforts in almost all weather conditions. Think of trying to rescue someone off of a moving boat in high waves with low visibility, high winds, extreme cold and driving rain.

Artistic rendition of H-60 rescue effort at sea.

I found this artistic rendition of an H-60 rescue effort on an information board at the Kodiak Harbor. The pilot is required to hold his helicopter in place under severe conditions while the rescue crew performs its exacting, dangerous job.

When we arrived in Kodiak, our son Tony had just completed his first year of a three-year assignment in Alaska as a Coast Guard pilot for the long-range H-60 helicopters. With three tours in Iraq as a Marine Helicopter pilot and several years of flying H-60s out of San Diego for the Coast Guard, he came to Alaska well qualified for his duties in Kodiak and at remote locations such as the island of St. Paul north of the Aleutian Archipelago.

In addition to their regular assignment to Kodiak, Coast Guard H-60 pilots are also assigned to remote areas for one to three-week tours. In this photo, Tony flies his H-60 over the remote island of St. Paul north of the Aleutian Island chain halfway between Alaska and Siberia.

In addition to touring us around the island and taking us fishing, Tony gave us a tour of the base and the helicopter maintenance facility. Cammie and the boys came with us.

The Coast Guard Air Station on Kodiak prominently features a Kodiak Bear on its logo.

The Coast Guard’s helicopter hangar/maintenance facility on Kodiak Island. We took this photo from the water when we were on our way halibut fishing.

A front view of one of the Coast Guard’s H-60s in the Hangar on Kodiak Island. Tony sits on the left in the picture while our grandson Connor sits on the right in Peggy’s lap.

Our youngest grandson Chris gets to try out his dad's seat for size while Peggy looks on.

Our youngest grandson Chris gets to try out his dad’s seat for size in the H-60 while Peggy looks on.

The HH-65, a smaller short-range helicopter, is designed to fly off of Coast Guard Cutters and accompanies them on their deployments.

The fixed-wing C-130 also flies out of the Kodiak Air Station.

The H-60 shown above is featured here in its natural setting with the mountains of Kodiak Island forming the background.

A final view of the flight-ready H-60 is featured here with the mountains of Kodiak Island in the background.

NEXT BLOG: Some of my favorite Kodiak photographs.

Salmon Fishing with a Kodiak Bear… North to Alaska

August 12, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 6 Comments

Does it really matter whether you catch fish or not when this is your setting? Cape Chiniak, Kodiak.

The "old fishing hole" on the Chiniak River. We fished both the river and the ocean for pink salmon.

The “old fishing hole” on the Chiniak River. Not bad, huh?

I’d consumed far too much coffee, so I put down my fishing pole and walked over the hill to find a convenient tree. Instead, I found the neighborhood bear. He was dashing around in a small pool of water on the other side of the road doing what Kodiak Bears do best: chase salmon. He was far too occupied to have seen me so I slipped away. I didn’t want to surprise him. Bears don’t like surprises.

The Chiniak River flows under the road through this culvert. Salmon were plateful on both sides. While we were fishing downstream on this side of the culvert, the bear was fishing upstream.

The Chiniak River flows under the road through this culvert. Salmon were plentiful on both sides. While we were fishing downstream on this side of the culvert, the bear was fishing upstream.

While I didn’t hang around to photograph the bear, I came back to capture his prints.

When I first came to Alaska in the 80s, many backpackers and hikers wore bells to let bears know they were in the area. My thinking was that cows wore bells and bears liked to eat cattle. I talked and sang a lot. “Ninety-nine Bottles of Beer on the Wall” was a favorite. One rendition gets you through a lot of bear country. Peggy and I still sing it when we come on a pile of fresh, steaming bear poop in the woods. The bigger the pile, the louder we sing.

This time I walked backed to where Tony was fishing and quietly gave him the news. I didn’t want to alarm the boys. More to the point, if the boys knew the bear was nearby, they would immediately want to go see him.

Tony came loaded for bear. He carried an air horn and pepper spray as his first line of defense. You are supposed to stand tall and make lots of noise if a bear finds you interesting. Tony is 6’2”. The air horn would supply the noise. When it comes time to use the pepper spray, the situation has deteriorated considerably. If all else fails, you are supposed to play dead… or shoot the bear. Tony is a nationally ranked pistol marksman. If push came to shove, my money would be on him.

Fortunately, the bear headed upstream. We were left on our own to catch salmon.

The natural setting on the end of the Chiniak Peninsula on Kodiak Island is beautiful and this was our second time there. The first time we had been quite successful and we were eager to for a repeat performance. It wasn’t to be.

The results from our first trip out to the Chiniak Peninsula.

There was an extreme low tide. Pink salmon in the hundreds lay just off the shore, eager for the high tide to send them swimming on their way up the Chiniak River to perform their age-old ritual of laying eggs and then passing on to salmon heaven, where I assume salmon food is plentiful and bears aren’t.

Our challenge was in catching, not snagging the salmon. They were so thick we kept hooking them before they went for our lures. I even brought a couple in by their tails. It was all fun, at least for us. We dutifully released the snagged salmon as required and watched them swim back into the bay. After we had caught and released 16 or so we decided it was time to pack it in and head home.

We’d go out to dinner. Grilled salmon could wait for another night.

Another view of Cape Chiniak. This was taken from just above where we were fishing.

Here fish, fishy, fishy. Cammie tries to entice a salmon by dangling a lure in front of its mouth.

Here fishy, fishy, fishy. Cammie tries to entice a salmon by dangling a lure in front of its mouth.

Our youngest grandson Cooper provides Tony with advice on where to cast his lure.

Fishing on the Buskin River on Kodiak Island, Alaska.

Our luck changed on the Buskin River a couple of days later. Here, Peggy signals the number of fish she caught. Note: In my last blog I reported that Peggy had only been fishing as a child. I forgot she had gone salmon fishing with my brother-in-law, Jim. That explains why she caught five salmon and I only caught four. (grin)

Pink salmon caught on the Buskin River in Kodiak, Alaska.

We hold up our catch of the day on the Buskin. And yes, Tony did grill salmon that night.

NEXT BLOG: The Coast Guard on Kodiak

Just for the Halibut… Gone Fishing in Kodiak

August 9, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 10 Comments

Leaving worries, Kodiak and a wake behind, we head out into Chiniak Bay for a day of halibut fishing.

Kodiak is about fishing. The Port of Kodiak is one the top three commercial fishing centers in the United States and the largest in Alaska. Sport fishing is also big. People come from around the world to try their luck. The odds are if you are in Kodiak for any amount of time, you’ll get hooked.

Kodiak Harbor is home to one of the largest fishing fleets in the United States.

Peggy poses with out youngest grandson, Cooper in front of the Harbor Masters office in Kodiak. The large fish is a sculpture made from trash collected from the ocean. Hopefully Cooper will grow up in a world with less trash.

Peggy poses with our youngest grandson, Cooper, in front of the Harbor Master’s office in Kodiak. The large fish is a sculpture made from trash collected from the ocean. Hopefully Cooper will grow up in a world with less trash.

Our son Tony caught the fishing bug. He grumbled when he left San Diego that all of his Coast Guard friends in Kodiak had become fishermen. He didn’t like to fish. Now, according to his wife, Cammie, he’s just like all of the other guys on the island. “Gee, honey, would you like to go for a nice romantic walk or go fishing?” Guess what…

But Cammie is right there with him. She can walk out into the water in her hip waders and cast her line for salmon with the best of the guys.

Cammie demonstrates her salmon fishing skills.

Peggy and I certainly don’t qualify as fishermen. I had fished in my twenties for several years but that was a while ago. We won’t talk about how long. As for Peggy, she had fished off a dock in Lake Erie with a bobber as a child… twice. But the temptation to go fishing was too great. Off we went to buy our out-of-state fishing licenses. We were about to get our feet wet.

Our first adventure was to try our luck with halibut. Guess who caught the only one? It wasn’t Tony, Cammie or me.

Coast Guard Kodiak has a dock for small fishing boats on base and makes rental boats available for Coasties (Members of the Coast Guard).

Our brave crew prepares to head out to sea on our halibut fishing expedition. Connor, Chris and Tony are in the first row. Peggy and Cammie are in the second row.

“Um, Dad, is that dock supposed to be there!?” Before we headed out to into the Bay, we tried our luck at catching herring for bait fish near the Kodiak docks. Three-year-old Chris, sitting in Tony’s lap and pretending to steer, apparently has concerns about where the boat is headed. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

Having no luck with the Herring, we headed out into Chiniak Bay to fish for halibut.

Connor found time to play ‘now you see me, now you don’t’ with me. The reflection was a bonus.

Chris enjoyed some kind of healthy snack, but given the expression of bliss on his face, I’m guessing that chocolate was involved. (Photo by Cammie Lumpkin.)

Cammie caught the first fish on our trip, a colorful rockfish. (Photo by Tony Lumpkin.)

Rockfish caught by Cammie Lumpkin off Kodiak Island.

A close up of the rockfish. “My what big eyes, you have.” Tony unhooked and released Cammie’s catch. (Photo by Tony Lumpkin.)

Peggy and I pose for our “official” halibut fishing photo. (Photo by Tony Lumpkin.)

Fishing in Chiniak Bay off the coast of Kodiak, Alaska.

A second “official” photo. I was leaning out to be in the picture. Had a large halibut chosen that moment to strike, I may have gone swimming. (Photo by Tony Lumpkin.)

Halibut fishing off the coast of Kodiak, Alaska.

Peggy caught our first, and only halibut, a 15 pounder– and had a smile to prove it.

Fishing for halibut in Chiniak Bay, Alaska.

Here, the boys take a close look at the halibut. Connor appears quite curious about the fish’s strange eye arrangement while Chris keeps his distance.

Tony has become quite expert at filleting fish. Here, he takes on the halibut. Halibut has always been my favorite fish. Nothing can beat one fresh off the boat.

Tony has become quite expert at filleting fish. Here, he takes on the halibut. Halibut has always been my favorite fish for eating and nothing can beat one fresh off the boat.

A note on photo credits: I always try to give credit to the person who took the photo. Where no name is mentioned, I took the picture. Peggy and I were passing our cameras around this time between ourselves, Tony and Cammie. I could have missed something.

NEXT BLOG: Having landed a halibut, we join the Kodiak Bears in fishing for salmon.

Flying Over Kodiak in an Antique Bomber… North to Alaska

August 7, 2013January 24, 2015 / Curt Mekemson / 19 Comments

Kodiak is a beautiful island ranging (in the summer) from intensely green hills to glacier covered mountains. I took this photo out the window of our plane as we flew over the Island.

Kodiak refers to itself as the Emerald Isle, a title it borrowed from Ireland. Having driven through Ireland and flown over Kodiak, I understand. Our floatplane trip to watch Kodiak Bears on the Frazer River provided a great overview of the island. The first impression was one of pervasive greenness. Soon, the green became dotted with snow fields and then glaciers; Kodiak is not Ireland.

Peggy captured just how green Kodiak can be… set off by patches of snow. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

In American terms, Kodiak is a big Island. At 3500 square miles it is the second largest island in the US, second only to the island of Hawaii. Given that it has around 3500 Kodiak bears, there is an average of one bear per square mile. One was waiting for us when our plane landed in Frazer Lake. He came running toward us. We opted to stay on the plane until he disappeared. Later we saw him swimming across the lake.

The Kodiak Bear, a young male, made his way toward our plane. He was more interested in fish than he was us, but we stayed on the plane until he left.

Our floatplane trip also provided us with some great views of the Kodiak Coast Guard Station where our son Tony flies H-60 Helicopters on missions rescuing everything from stranded fisherman to errant oil rigs. I’ll blog about the Coast Guard later.

A view of the Coast Guard station on Kodiak. We stayed at our son’s house on the facility. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

The floatplane was a 50-year-old plus de Havilland Beaver, which makes it not only old, but also something of a legend. Ours, according to the pilot, had originally been designed to serve as a light bomber during the Korean War and still had bomb mounts on the wings. The Beaver found its true vocation serving as a bush plane in the far north, however. It has lots of STOL in pilot lingo, short takeoff and landing capability. And STOL is critical when your runway might be a riverbank or a small pond.

Our de Havilland Beaver floatplane was waiting for us when we arrived. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

A few weeks before our visit, Tony, his wife Cammie, and their children had toured Kodiak in one of these floatplanes.

The first floatplane I ever flew on had retractable wheels and took off from a regular airport. I somehow didn’t make the connection that we would be landing in a bay. The armrest probably still has my fingerprints embedded in it from when I thought we were crashing in the water. This time we took off from and landed in water. There was no confusion. Only the bear.

Another photo of Peggy’s that captures both the green and ruggedness of Kodiak. We spotted mountain goats on some of the peaks.

This, and the next three photos show the glaciers we found on Kodiak.

Kodiak Island glacier. I thought this photo Peggy took would be best shown in black and white. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

I close with another glacier photo that I found almost mystical. (Photo by Peggy Mekemson)

Wandering through Time and Place

Exploring the world with Curtis and Peggy Mekemson