Megan rows toward Navajo Bridge at mile 4. It was our first notable landmark. Actually there are two bridges: an old one competed in 1929 to replace Lee’s Ferry and a new one finished in 1995 to accommodate modern traffic. The old one now serves as a a foot bridge. Crossing the bridge is how you get to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon from the South Rim. Or vice-versa. (Photo by Don Green.)
For those of you who like facts, here are a few about the river: The Colorado is 1,440 miles long from its headwaters in the Rocky Mountains to its mouth in the Gulf of California. I’ve backpacked through the area where it originates and kayaked in the Gulf of California. It ranks 6th in length among U.S. rivers. At its widest point it reaches 750 feet. At its deepest, 90. It flows along at 3-4 miles per hour but may reach 15 miles per hour in rapids. Given that the water comes out of the base of Glen Canyon Dam, it’s cold— an icy 46 degrees Fahrenheit during the upper part of our trip. Washing off in it usually elicited screams. Over the course of our adventure, it dropped 1700 feet in altitude, an average 8 feet per mile. That’s 25 times the average of the Mississippi River! Thus, the 250 rapids in the Grand Canyon.
As we floated down the river, we were awed over and over by the surrounding beauty! The pontoon boat, BTW, is rowed by Steve Vandoor. Steve’s boat is rigged to carry groovers (honey buckets), which is something of a specialty of Steve’s. While it might seem strange, it guarantees that he is invited to join river trips on a regular basis. Does this mean Steve is groovy? More on groovers later.This huge slab of Coconino sandstone at mile 10 once stood hundreds of feet above the river before it came tumbling down and stuck— standing up. It’s a reminder of the constant geological forces involved in creating the canyon. As the river digs deeper, erosion brings rocks crashing down, widening the canyon. It’s also a reminder that one wouldn’t want to be anywhere near when it fell!This was one of our first rapids. It’s where Tom lost an oar and ended up rowing heroically to get us out. Afterwards was one of the first times I ever heard him be totally silent. (Photo by Don Green.)Major rapids like House Rock were always scouted by the most experienced boatmen. Peggy is obviously quite excited. “Listen to the roar, Curt!” I was thinking more about the ‘hole’ that we might be sucked into. The boatmen plot out the best way to avoid such obstacles. They were amazingly good.In addition to our raft trip down the river and camping, Tom had planned several excursions. This is in Silver Grotto, which was quite beautiful. I’d chosen to stay in camp for photography and a little ‘Curt Time.’ See the slot canyon. Tom had them hike to the upper rim and then slide down some 20 feet to a small pond in what was close to a straight drop. The rocks were wetted to assure a smoother slide. Everyone survived and had fun, but it did make me wonder about the ‘safety’ part of my responsibilities.I discussed the ‘thrill ride’ with a raven that came to visit me and perched on a boatman’s seat. It told me she would share her opinion for food. I declined. I’m pretty sure she would have said, “It’s easy. Just fly.”While the major rapids provided for a minute or two of pure adrenaline rush for both boatmen and passengers, floating on calm waters was a much more common experience for us.Every corner brought a new marvel such as this towering cliff. Check out our boats at the bottom for perspective.Vasey’s Paradise at mile 32 is one of the most beautiful waterfalls we saw on our journey. It flows out of what is known as the Redwall, one of the Grand Canyon’s most prominent features.As you might imagine, we all took photos. This is Leland Lee, who, in addition to being a talented photographer, is a periodontist.While we relaxed and enjoyed the falls, Jamie gathered the cold fresh water for our drinking and cooking needs. Gathering and pumping water through filters to purify it was one of our daily chores. Redwall Cavern, a mile or so beyond Vasey’s Paradise, is one impressive cave! We headed in for lunch.Some of our rafters and the lunch kitchen provide perspective on the cavern’s size. When John Wesley Powell, the one armed veteran of the Civil War and first dedicated explorer of the river, came on the cavern in 1869, he estimated it could hold 50,000 people. Modern estimates are closer to 5,000, but that is still a bunch!This is a view looking out from the Redwall Cavern at the surrounding canyon walls.I thought this was a great people shot by Don…And scenery shot. (Photo by Don Green.)Colorado means red, which is the color of the river after rainstorms (reddish brown). Obviously it hadn’t rained recently, and, as I recall, it didn’t rain at all during our trip. Quite the monument.Theresa provides perspective on the ancient Anasazi Granary we hiked up to visit high above the Colorado River near mile 53. (Photo by Don Green.)Looking down the Colorado River from the Anasazi Granary. One of us is making our way back toward the river in the shadows on the right. (Photo by Don Green.)A view looking up, downriver from the granary.And another.Food is quite important to river runners as I mentioned in my first post on the river. And why not, since the boats can carry massive amounts. It’s not like backpacking where every ounce matters. Here, Peggy is working on a carrot salad. Each of us was expected to do kitchen duty. Tom, who owned a popular Mexican restaurant in Davis at the time, the Cantina, was proud of what he had brought along to eat— and quite particular on how it was prepared. He hovered providing directions. Like a chef.For example, the correct way to cut romaine lettuce. Susan Gishi holds up the lettuce like rabbit ears on an old fashioned TV set. She is about to demonstrate how to cut it and looking much more serious than the rabbit ears would suggest.Like this.Tom discovered me tearing it up instead of cutting it and got quite excited. Being allergic to taking directions from Tom about cutting lettuce, I made a trade with Peggy. I would handle her groover duty if she would take my kitchen duty. Here’s the thing about groovers, you are required to carry your poop out. Peeing is done in the river. My duty was to work with Steve in finding a suitable private place for the men’s and women’s groovers when we landed in the evening and then loading them back on his boat in the morning. BTW, the reasons these large ammo cans are called groovers is because people sat on them directly until someone figured out how to attach toilet seats. Duh. They left grooves on your butt! (Photo by Don Green.)Our next great stop was at the Little Colorado River where it flows into the Colorado at mile 61. Its beautiful color is due to mineral content. The minerals settle out to form the rocks you are seeing. There is a cave a few miles up the river where Hopi mythology claims they made their entrance into this world.As always, my camera was kept busy.I suspect the Hopi would have seen these reeds as weaving material.Not a thong bikini. Bobbi Allen was busy taking photos as well, but more to the point, she is wearing her PFD upside down per Tom’s direction. The purpose was to enhance our floating down the Little Colorado. They seemed strange and looked like bloated diapers. I’m not sure Bobbi meant to serve as a model but I wasn’t up for a selfie. That would have been scary.People floated down as individuals or in groups. I couldn’t tell which one this was for sure, but If she looks a little out of control, you should have seen me. My PFD slipped down around my feet and I bounced down the river with my head removing rocks along the way. I think it was Jamie who waded in and pulled me out. My guess is that others thought of it as a Kodak moment, and Tom thought it might pound some sense into my head.Here’s a Conga Line with Tim Spann, Bobbi, and Don plus others.Even Bone gave it a try, but he preferred the calmer part of the river.A sucker found him amusing…Nancy Pape praised him for being so brave. Nancy and I go way back to the early 1980s when she joined me on one of the hundred mile backpack treks I led. And many more after that. She has also gone to Burning Man with Peggy and me, as have Tom, Don and Bone.And Jamie decided to teach Bone how to row.In fact Bone became so confidant in his rafting skills, he decided he could serve as a scout checking out rapids.Fortunately, no one drowned. That does it for today. Next Friday we will continue our trip down the river with its great beauty and wild adventures. (Photo by Don Green.)
What an epic adventure Curt! I love all your photos, and Don’s too. Beside a great adventure, filled with so much fun, the scenery is fantastic, as not many have a chance to go rafting in the heart of the Grand Canyon.
We really are such tiny beings in this world! I admire you folks for being able to do what you do and love it! The rock formations are so stunning and all of the pictures are glorious! I respect the water…the rain in my state is about as far as I get…as far as into water! Many people have such aptitudes for thrill…my brother built and flies his own airplane and at 80, is still flying. Myself…you can find me looking at pictures of people who do exciting things as I drink a little coffee and return to a good book. Thank you!
This is what I like about blogging and bloggers – so many people doing and sharing things that I would not choose to do but enjoy reading about. All while I do and share things that so many people would not choose to do!
An absolutely marvelous trip! I would have forgotten my discomfort with all the people in exchange for the marvels along the way. The rapids, the calms, the waterfalls, the caves. That Redwall Cavern is jaw-droppingly huge. And always, every moment, you are surrounded by the majesty of the Grand Canyon. Thank you for taking us there. And good job, Bone, for being so brave. It’s hard when you are that small.
You would have loved it Crystal. Absolutely guaranteed. And the people were great, really fun and easy to get along with. As for Bone, as you know having traveled with him, he may be small in size but it huge in mind. Just ask him. Grin.
Curt, your photos and narrative are nothing less than spectacular! I love the perspectives with the towering cliffs and the Redwall Cavern. And the contrast between rapids and calm water. I also thought the raven was cute! The photo looking down the Colorado River was beyond gorgeous! What a wonderful adventure! And then to end with “Fortunately, no one drowned.” Yes, that’s a really good thing! Awesome as always!
Appreciated, Lauren! The beauty of the Canyon just goes on and on, as did the adventure. The various moods of the river were fascinating. I was very glad we had such skilled boatmen along to get us through the rapids and always marveled at the beauty when we were moving through calm water.
Wandering through Time and Place 
Those are some seriously great pictures.
Great pictures as always!! Looks like it was an epic trip!
What an epic adventure Curt! I love all your photos, and Don’s too. Beside a great adventure, filled with so much fun, the scenery is fantastic, as not many have a chance to go rafting in the heart of the Grand Canyon.
Christie
We really are such tiny beings in this world! I admire you folks for being able to do what you do and love it! The rock formations are so stunning and all of the pictures are glorious! I respect the water…the rain in my state is about as far as I get…as far as into water! Many people have such aptitudes for thrill…my brother built and flies his own airplane and at 80, is still flying. Myself…you can find me looking at pictures of people who do exciting things as I drink a little coffee and return to a good book. Thank you!
Sincerely,
Wendy in rainy Wa!
What a phenomenal experience that has to be!!
One of those once in a lifetime type things, G.
This is what I like about blogging and bloggers – so many people doing and sharing things that I would not choose to do but enjoy reading about. All while I do and share things that so many people would not choose to do!
A mutual benefit for sure!
A truly magnificent experience. Love the pics.
Thanks, Peggy!
An absolutely marvelous trip! I would have forgotten my discomfort with all the people in exchange for the marvels along the way. The rapids, the calms, the waterfalls, the caves. That Redwall Cavern is jaw-droppingly huge. And always, every moment, you are surrounded by the majesty of the Grand Canyon. Thank you for taking us there. And good job, Bone, for being so brave. It’s hard when you are that small.
You would have loved it Crystal. Absolutely guaranteed. And the people were great, really fun and easy to get along with. As for Bone, as you know having traveled with him, he may be small in size but it huge in mind. Just ask him. Grin.
Curt, your photos and narrative are nothing less than spectacular! I love the perspectives with the towering cliffs and the Redwall Cavern. And the contrast between rapids and calm water. I also thought the raven was cute! The photo looking down the Colorado River was beyond gorgeous! What a wonderful adventure! And then to end with “Fortunately, no one drowned.” Yes, that’s a really good thing! Awesome as always!
Appreciated, Lauren! The beauty of the Canyon just goes on and on, as did the adventure. The various moods of the river were fascinating. I was very glad we had such skilled boatmen along to get us through the rapids and always marveled at the beauty when we were moving through calm water.